barthel

I JUST went through the exact same set of questions as you, although I am going to lift mine. Stock wheels are 15X7 with a 4" backspace. On that rim, the largest you can go would be a 31X10.5X15 tire. When I changed my rims and tires, I stayed with the same size tire (31's) but went with a 15X8 wheel, 4" backspace. I have no rubbing issues. Here they are; By the way, the wheels are Cragar Black D Window wheels, $39 from Summit Racing.

Hey Kill, Think it would look good with your paint job???? I LOVE your paint set up, and have pretty much decided I'm gonna do mine that way. I think it would look "bitch'in" (as my son would say). :idea:

Well throw some for me, it'll be a few weeks before I'm ready. We need some rain here anyway to get the hills good and muddy.

Congrats and condolences.

The exact same thing happen to the hub on my drivers side wheel, the culprit was the bearing. It split and ground up everything inside, bad enough to catch on fire.

Is that an official policy? Think my wife would buy it????? :contract:

Hopefully mud comes next weekend. I think it's funny that I'm putting all this shiny new stuff on it, only to take it out and get it dirty! Starting the lift this weekend with the rear JGC conversion.

Thanks, The tires are Pro Comp X-Terrain 31X10.5X15, the wheels are Cragar 15X8 Black D Window wheels with a 4" backspace. The set of tires cost me about $700 from 4Wheel parts, the rims were $39 a piece on Summit Racing. Since I ordered 5 (1 for the spare) I got free shipping.

I feel the same way SS. At this rate, I'm NEVER gonna be done with it, I keep finding something else that it needs, or that I want. It's worse than my kids. :eek:

Well, baby got some new shoes finally, and you all had a lot to do with that. Here she is before, bone stock And now Thanks you guys (and gals) for all your help. This is the first of what I hope are many mods.

directly. LOL

OR Use a quart funnel with a narrow opening, hook it firectly to the intake line and pour the new fluid into the funnel, making sure to never let it drain completely. Watch the color of the fluid coming out, when it clears up, you're done.

One of my next projects (they just keep piling up) is to pull out the fan blade and clutch and put in an electric fan. I've seen two basic types used in the threads here, the fan from a 93-95 Quest, or the fan from a pre-98 Taurus. I was just wondering if one was better than the other. Opinions? :confused:

That would be awesome! :bow:

Thanks SS Is that in the how to's?

I was going to do a tranny fluid change when I put in my trans cooler (just seemed to make sense). In looking at some of the posts and the EBSCO database there doesn't seem to be a way to change ALL the fluid at once (trans, torque converter, etc.), it's "drop the pan and let it drain". While checking out another repair database I found 2 threads that i thought were interesting. One noted to disconnect the fluid discharge line from the cooler, start the engine and essentially let the trans pump all the luid out, being careful to make sure you stop when the fluid diminishes. Second thread suggested taking a suction gun and plastic tubing, snaking it down through the dipstick tube and sucking all the fluid out. Any thought from the pro's? :confused:

Online at Rock Auto. They have thm for about 17 bucks. I get TONS of parts through them, they have awesome prices. www.rockauto.com

Would I have to add additional oil to the engine if i put in a cooler? Meaning it takes 4 quarts with a filter change, since I'm adding additional "space", will I need to put in more than 4 quarts to get it up to level?

Just relocating the oil filter won't help cool the engine any. But, using the relocating kit you have 2 hoses coming out of the blank-off plate, 1 discharge, 1 return. These hoses run to the filter mount. If I take the return hose (back to the engine) and plumb in a cooler, THAT will help cool the oil. I was just curious about what to use. I'm using a B&M supercooler for the tranny cooler, I didn't know if I needed anything that big for the oil cooler.

No, I'm already going to do the tranny cooler, I was going to use a kit to relocate the oil filter to the inner fender wall and thought I'd pipe in a cooler while I'm at it.

Hey all, Was just curious about those of you that are running an oil cooler, which one are you using? My thought was to use the Summit #G4985 oil filter relocation kit the 88 suggested, thepipe the discharge from the filter block to a cooler, then back to the engine. I figured if I do it that way, I can use just about an old cooler I come across. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks

Thunderbox and Snake, Thanks much for all your help guys. Got done wiring in the complete MSD system tonight. I hooked up the battery, held my breath and turned the key. It fired immediately and ran like a top! Couldn't have done it without you, thanks a million!

Ok, I have a few dumb questions about putting in a tranny cooler. 1: Do you use the stock lines coming from the trans, and if so is there a way to determine which is out and which is in? 2: After putting in the cooler, do I have to add more than the spec'd amount of tranny fluid? 3: Mouniting. I plan to mount it between the radiator and the condenser, but want to have enough room to put an oil cooler in there as well. Should the cooler be centered so that it benefits from the fan, or is side by side mounting with an oil cooler OK. How about stacking the trans & oil cooler, any thoughts? Thanks.

Thanks MUCHO people. I think I've got a good handle on it now, I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again.

Right. The stock coil is mounted on a bracket. Connected to the same bracket below and behind the coil is a small black square piece. It has a harness plug going into it with 4 or 5 wires, and 2 wires coming out that plug into the coil. So, if the is the amplifier it needs to stay and I need to use the 2 wires coming out of it (the ones that go to the coil) to connect to the MSD system, then to the blaster coil, correct? Sorry to be so dense, but this is my first real mod of a vehicle that didn't involve duct tape and bailing wire.