barthel

Rusty, That's almost exactly how I did mine. I disconnected the out line to the tranny cooler, placed it in a milk jug and started the engine. It filled the jug up in nothing flat. Filled another half of one as well before it stopped pumping. At that point, I shut it down, put in a quart of ATF and started the engine again until I saw if flow purple (was switching to Royal Purple Synthetic). Once I saw the new fluid coming out, I connected the hose to the tranny cooler, let it fill up, and when it started coming out the out line of the tranny cooler, I reattached the hose. Now I just had to fill it back up. The manual says the tranny should take 18 pints (9 quarts) of fluid, but that's with draining the torque converter as well. I pumped out about 6 to 7 quarts, and put an even 7 back in.

MWS, You are correct, as a matter of fact I only need 4. The fuse block I got has 4 ignition switched circuits, and 3 constant circuits. I'm using the 4 switched for the lights, 2 of the constants for power outlets, and the last one as the trigger switch for the relays.

Paid $3.49 yesterday in SoCal.

I had my uppers and lowers done for $400, which included an alignment and replacing the TRE's. However, I supplied the parts.

Well, I got all of my lights finally and am in the process of installing them. 6 total on the roof rack (2 inner front, 2 outer front, 2 rear back up) plus 2 PIAA fogs on the front. I have all the wiring diagrams that I pulled from here as well as the instructions that came with the lights. My question is slightly different. The way they will work, 2 inner front on one switch, 2 outer front on one switch, backups and fogs on their own switches as well. I have 4 lighted rocker switches to sork them and pulled a 7 circuit fuse block and mounted it under the drivers seat. I'm using the fuse block to power the relays for the lights themselves, I'll have to pull trigger power to the switches from somewhere else (using 6 of the 7 circuits). Can I use power from one location as a trigger for all the switches (since the load is channeled by the relays), or do I need to find 4 seperate power sources (one for each switch). I will still have 1 constant hot circuit left on my fuse block, any issues if I use that for a trigger? Thanks in advance.

Anyone here in Cali (or anywhere for that matter) planning on going to the High Desert Round up on Memorial Day weekend? It's a 3 day event out at the Stoddard Wells OHV.

Mine's an 88, but I have the same issue. Heat through the entire console. I made the mistake once of putting a Chap Stick in one of the holders on the console. Boy, did I learn a bad lesson that day.

After reading all the threads, I decided on PIAA 520 fogs for the front (Thanks 88), And 4 Pro Comp 9561's (5" driving lights) for the roof rack. Using a cheap set of Summit Racing lights for the rear.

K, As promised, here are pics of the rack and mounts. Any ideas?

I'll take some tonight and post them. The original rack that was on there was an after market rack (I guess). When I put the safari basket on, I bought roof rails and drilled the rails so that they mounted on the holes of the old rack. It's nowhere near the 4X4 emplems on the side. Obviously I'm trying to avoid having wires laid across the roof.

I need some advice and as usual am turning to the pro's. I got my lights and are starting the mounting/wiring phase. I know how I'm going to mount them, where, switching, etc. What I haven't decided yet is how I'm going to route the wires from the roof lights into the cab. I've searched all the posts and there seems to be as many ideas out there as there are members. So, I guess I'm asking "what works for you"? I have a safari basket and am mounting 4 lights on it. Not sure if I should drill net to the rack mounts or take it to the back and try to go through the rear hatch penetration. Which is going to be cleanest? Thanks All! Bart

There's nothing wrong with picking up A/C parts at a JY as long as you follow a couple of simple rules. Make sure before you connect the part to anything that you blow it out well. A/C systems don't like dirt or dust (non-condensables). Make sure your connections are tight. Pressurize the system with air (to about 200#), then spray all your connections with soapy water. Any leaks will bubble. Once the systems tight, you'll need to pull a vacuum on it. You'll need to have it under vacuum (30") for about an hour (this will cook off any other contamination left over by moisture). Recharge the system. You can try to weigh the charge in (you'd need a refer scale or a dial-a-charge) but the easiest way to do it is by the sight glass on top of the receiver/drier. Hook up the refrigerant to the low side(suction) of the system. Make sure the canister of refrigerant is upright so you're not feeding it liquid, must be gas only. Run the A/C system and watch the sight glass. It looks like soapy water running by the glass, as the system gets charged up, it will get clear. When there's no more bubbles and it's perfectly clear, you're done!

Brent, Way interested, but what colors are available?

If it's just the passenger side, it's more than likely a drivetrain issue. The transfer case disengages when you shift from 4H to 2H, but if your hub does not unlock, then you're still turning the drivehaft and diff.

Still interested.

Might go, but would probably fly. cheaper that way with these gas prices.

Not to fan the flames or anything, but I have an 88, it has the RE4R01A and it's an OD.

Way to go Simon!

88, I just did this mod not too long ago on mine (88 V6 Auto), it was pretty straightfoward and easy. Wiring was simple, it started up on the first attempt. I did use the tach adaptor only because the tech at MSD noted my tach may not work. Everything works beautifully and i love it.

I'm taking pics this weekend, i should have them up sometime tomorrow. I'll drop you a PM when I post them. Yeah, haven't been around too terribly much, I got sidetracked by that ball joint issue. But, I'm back.

89, I JUST got done doing this. Jack the front of the vehicle up so that the tires are completely off the ground. Jackstand the front on the frame right by the compression rods. If you're just cranking them and not re-indexing them, then loosen the top nut on the adjuster bolt about an inch. Crank away on the t-ba adjusters, making sure you crank them both an even amount. What you'll end up doing is adjusting them, setting the truck down, then jacking it up again a re-adjusting them. When you get it close to where you want it, set it down and drive it around for a few miles as it will more than likely settle about a half an inch. Once you do that, jack it up once more for your final adjustment. With mine, it took 3 times up and down.

SS, DEFINATELY check back in with what you find. I still want to do the E-fan mod and haven't decided exactly how I'm gonna go about it yet. Thanks!

It's all there in the post's and the "How To's". I didn't know squat when I first got here and had a bone stock pathy. Thanks to these guys and all the info they pointed me towards, I just completed a JGC rear lift, along with new UCA's and cranked t-bars for the front. I couldn't have done it without all of the info here, along with all the help these people gave me.

Martin's right, it's 3/8 NPT, male to female 90 degree fittings. I bought the same fittings when I did mine ast month.

I need some input regarding lighting. I've pretty much decided on my lighing set up, 2 on the front bumper guard, at least 2 if not 4 on the roof. I've been looking at the Pro Comp 5" for the roof and decided on the PIAA 520's for the bumper. I wanted something tough up front and they seemed the logical choice. Where I need help is deciding which 520's to get for the front. There's 2 basic types, the driving type (narrow beam) and the crystal ion fog type. Some places list the ion's as driving as well. Is there one choice better than the other for coverage in most general situations? Thanks. :X