barthel

After reading all the threads, I decided on PIAA 520 fogs for the front (Thanks 88), And 4 Pro Comp 9561's (5" driving lights) for the roof rack. Using a cheap set of Summit Racing lights for the rear.

K, As promised, here are pics of the rack and mounts. Any ideas?

I'll take some tonight and post them. The original rack that was on there was an after market rack (I guess). When I put the safari basket on, I bought roof rails and drilled the rails so that they mounted on the holes of the old rack. It's nowhere near the 4X4 emplems on the side. Obviously I'm trying to avoid having wires laid across the roof.

I need some advice and as usual am turning to the pro's. I got my lights and are starting the mounting/wiring phase. I know how I'm going to mount them, where, switching, etc. What I haven't decided yet is how I'm going to route the wires from the roof lights into the cab. I've searched all the posts and there seems to be as many ideas out there as there are members. So, I guess I'm asking "what works for you"? I have a safari basket and am mounting 4 lights on it. Not sure if I should drill net to the rack mounts or take it to the back and try to go through the rear hatch penetration. Which is going to be cleanest? Thanks All! Bart

There's nothing wrong with picking up A/C parts at a JY as long as you follow a couple of simple rules. Make sure before you connect the part to anything that you blow it out well. A/C systems don't like dirt or dust (non-condensables). Make sure your connections are tight. Pressurize the system with air (to about 200#), then spray all your connections with soapy water. Any leaks will bubble. Once the systems tight, you'll need to pull a vacuum on it. You'll need to have it under vacuum (30") for about an hour (this will cook off any other contamination left over by moisture). Recharge the system. You can try to weigh the charge in (you'd need a refer scale or a dial-a-charge) but the easiest way to do it is by the sight glass on top of the receiver/drier. Hook up the refrigerant to the low side(suction) of the system. Make sure the canister of refrigerant is upright so you're not feeding it liquid, must be gas only. Run the A/C system and watch the sight glass. It looks like soapy water running by the glass, as the system gets charged up, it will get clear. When there's no more bubbles and it's perfectly clear, you're done!

Brent, Way interested, but what colors are available?

If it's just the passenger side, it's more than likely a drivetrain issue. The transfer case disengages when you shift from 4H to 2H, but if your hub does not unlock, then you're still turning the drivehaft and diff.

Still interested.

Might go, but would probably fly. cheaper that way with these gas prices.

88, I just did this mod not too long ago on mine (88 V6 Auto), it was pretty straightfoward and easy. Wiring was simple, it started up on the first attempt. I did use the tach adaptor only because the tech at MSD noted my tach may not work. Everything works beautifully and i love it.

I'm taking pics this weekend, i should have them up sometime tomorrow. I'll drop you a PM when I post them. Yeah, haven't been around too terribly much, I got sidetracked by that ball joint issue. But, I'm back.

89, I JUST got done doing this. Jack the front of the vehicle up so that the tires are completely off the ground. Jackstand the front on the frame right by the compression rods. If you're just cranking them and not re-indexing them, then loosen the top nut on the adjuster bolt about an inch. Crank away on the t-ba adjusters, making sure you crank them both an even amount. What you'll end up doing is adjusting them, setting the truck down, then jacking it up again a re-adjusting them. When you get it close to where you want it, set it down and drive it around for a few miles as it will more than likely settle about a half an inch. Once you do that, jack it up once more for your final adjustment. With mine, it took 3 times up and down.

SS, DEFINATELY check back in with what you find. I still want to do the E-fan mod and haven't decided exactly how I'm gonna go about it yet. Thanks!

It's all there in the post's and the "How To's". I didn't know squat when I first got here and had a bone stock pathy. Thanks to these guys and all the info they pointed me towards, I just completed a JGC rear lift, along with new UCA's and cranked t-bars for the front. I couldn't have done it without all of the info here, along with all the help these people gave me.

Martin's right, it's 3/8 NPT, male to female 90 degree fittings. I bought the same fittings when I did mine ast month.

I need some input regarding lighting. I've pretty much decided on my lighing set up, 2 on the front bumper guard, at least 2 if not 4 on the roof. I've been looking at the Pro Comp 5" for the roof and decided on the PIAA 520's for the bumper. I wanted something tough up front and they seemed the logical choice. Where I need help is deciding which 520's to get for the front. There's 2 basic types, the driving type (narrow beam) and the crystal ion fog type. Some places list the ion's as driving as well. Is there one choice better than the other for coverage in most general situations? Thanks. :X

<-------hears banjos playing in the background

Thanks everyone for the help. Can any of you that have the Flowmaster 50 tell me which one you have? the possibilities seem endless.

Close, I believe the one I saw was newer, but yes, that's about what I'm looking for. As usual SS, you da man!

That sounds BAD! Stuck lifter, maybe a loose valve? Either way, it's not sounding healthy. Have you noticed a drop in power? Does it quiet down when it warms up or is up to speed?

I TOTALLY agre with Slick! Might I add REAR bumpers. sssh

Has anyone running a Dynomax or Magnaflow muffler posted a sound clip? I've found a bunch for the 40 and 50 series Flowmaster, but not for much else. Not trying to beat a dead horse, just trying to decide the right one for me.

Someone a while back (month or so) put up a post about a printed A/C catalog with a link to the catalog itself. Been searching for a bit and couldn't locate it, any chance someone could repost the link? :bow: Much apprecaited.

Yes, sawzall is close by and has a nice shiny new metal blade. I tried unscrewing the TRE but coulnd't get the wheek to turn enough to get it out. It's threaded most of the way in, so I had 2 inches to try to unthread. I also cranked it in on the other side just to try to gain extra space. My concern is, that I cut the dam things out and I'm still going to be left with the same problem, tapers stuck in the hole. The TRE wouldn't budge, nor would the lower ball joint. I didn't even consider screwing with the other side. I got the stock UCA's out and put the new ones in, did a few of the things I wanted to in there, but I'm truly at the end of my rope with this ball joint thing. I'm not a spaz, I turn a pretty fair wrench and most often know what I'm doing. But this one's got me stumped.

SS, Yes, I have. Unfortunately what you are seeing is the last act of a desperate man. When I figured I couldn't get the taper out, I was just going to take the whole knuckle off and go at it that way. But, I'm having the same problem with the outer tie rod end and lower ball joint, they just ain't gonna move. So, short of taking out the grinder and just doing some arbitrary cutting (don't think it didn't cross my mind) there's no way the knuckles coming off. I've even managed to get a C clamp press on it and applied about a ton and a half of pressure. No go. I agree about having someone else work on my rig, but there comes a time every now and again when i know I'm beat, and this is it. I've been F-ing around with this damn thing for 2 weeks now and have gotten nowhere. At this point, I guess I just don't see too many alternatives, and I'm anxious to get my rig back on (and off) the road.