barthel

Yep, after reading what you guys said, I looked in the back of the alty. Sure as sh*t, there it was. It's off! As always, couldn't have done it without you guys! Thanks

K, Suddenly realizing I may be a serious dumbass, where's the 3rd bolt? sssh There was one holding the bracket to the block, and the top pivot bolt. There's a bolt that holds it to the adjuster bracket, but that came off with the bracket.

Ok, I was taking the alternator out (my 90 amp Maxima alty is on the way) -bounce- Bracket came off fine, the top bolt came out easily as well, but the damn thing doesn't want to come off, it just rocks back and forth on the pivot. How long is the top bolt supposed to be? The one I took out was only about 2 inches long. It doesn't look like it sheared or is broken, but that's the only thing I can think of unless i missed something. Any help would be appreciated. :bow:

Yes, the new belt has marks on it. I don't know if the old one did and they just wore off, or what. I don't have the crank pulley off yet, so I'm not sure about the martks down there, although I know what to look for. I just wasn't sure about the dimples or the timing mark on the crank pulley, and obviously didn't want to move forward before I figured it out or got some help.

Nope. When I got to this point, I stopped just to make sure everything was good before I moved on. And yes 5523, I did read the how to, that's what got me this far.

Ok, I have a small issue. I have the front of the engine apart to do the timing belt (among other things). The two issues I need help with are..... Timing mark on crank pulley. there are 7 marks, but they're just lines notched into the pulley, there's no reference to degrees or anything. So, which one is TDC? By using the sight/screwdriver method I believe it's the one to the far left (if you're looking at it), am I correct? Next, there's no marks on the belt, but there's the marks on the cam pulleys. When I se the engine at what think is #1 TDC, the marks on the timing pulleys don't line up with the dimples behind them on the inside cover. I've jockeyed the engine back and forth and it looks like they never quite line up. Should I be concerned? Thanks in advance.

How funny, I totally remember that commercial. They were driving through the rain forrest or something like that. That is exactly the commercial that made me want a Pathy. It was 10 years before I got it, but I loved it, and still do.

I don't like it at all. I originally fell in love with the Hardbody style Pathy because it looked rough and tough, like it could go anywhere. This truck is a Pathy in name only, it has no heart or soul, it looks like every other grocery getter. It's a soccer mom car. Just my 2 cents.

I'm in if you're making some.

Muchas Gracias Senor Pickles! :bow:

K, I'll be the one to ask the stupid question.. In the pic of the UCA's, are they laying right side up? I glanced at my stock UCA's and looked at the Rough Country ones, and couldn't decide which way was up. Do the zerks go on top or on the bottom?

SS, Where'd you see those? Maybe let the rest of us in on the secret???? sly

So, if I intend on doing anything more than trail riding, it would be a good idea to switch them out to the manual style?

Sweet Slick! I'm going to do something similar. Same location, mounted vertically. I found some 3/8 NPT 90 degree adapters at the hardware store that will solve my top clearence issues. Thanks all, you've been a BIG help.

Looks AWESOME KV!!! Dammit, now I have to add 1 more thing to the list of mods.

Red, Thanks man, those pics were a BIG help.

Maybe I'm alone here, but I've never had any issues with my auto hubs. I've been through mud and snow, and some off roading (mostly trials and stuff) and have never had then unlock or lock when they weren't supposed to. Maybe that's something I need to think about though.

Can I get an Amen!!!!! :bow:

Adahy, Check a site called "tirepackage.com". Good prices and their shipping rates are not killers. I'm like you, I didn't want anything really radical, but I wanted more of an offroad tire than an onroad. When I went to get them, I was actually going to get the Super Swamper TrXus Mud Terrains, but no local distributor had them. The X-Terrain's were my second choice.

Jim, I don't know you, but everyone here seems to think the world of you, and that means something to me. Welcome back!

It's a single. Where did you move the relays and fuse links on the PS fender wall. Right now, I'm leaning toward moving the fuel filter back toward the firewall and fabbing a bracket to attach to the old fuel filter location. I'm definitely getting 90 degree fittings. They come out of the top now and I think that's part of my issue.

What can I say. Great minds think alike I guess. You're right though, for the price you can't go wrong. They were cheap enough that I ordered an extra one just for the spare. Now if I could just get rid of the legos.

Correct. Mine don't touch anywhere (not that I've found so far) mws is the one who set me on the 15X8 path. On a stock 7" rim, the 10.5 tires have to squeeze in to fit the rim that's 3 1/2" smaller. With an 8" rim it give syou that extra inch to flatten it out. He was running the same set up and noted that his wheels just kissed the indside of the contraol arms when he first put them on, but he adjusted the steering stops and it took care of it. In my wheel style, Cragar had either 4" or 4 3/4" backspace. It did make mire tires stick out from the body a bit more, but it looks sic!!! sly

Cut holes in the floor pans, and do it "Fred Flinstone" style. Sorry, couldn't resist.

...in a never ending series. I just got my oil filter relocation kit and am having a few issues with where to mount the filter base, nowhere seems to be a really good place to put it (although the oil filter is HUGE). Even with a smaller filter, it's gonna be tight. Are there any issues or problems if I mount the base horizontally rather than vertically? If I can turn it on it's side, the I can fab a bracket real easy coming off the fuel filter bracket. As usual, I thought I'd ask the pros. :bow: