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barthel

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Everything posted by barthel

  1. I like 88's idea about the battery disconnect. When I put in my MSD system I took the extra 10 minutes and put in a killswitch. A small rocker switch up under the dash on one of the kick panels. Unless you know it's there, you'll never find it. sssh
  2. Bitchin' (as my son would say) Thanks JJ
  3. OK, I got it on,Thanks much! Have another little issue that I'm not sure is OK or not. When I got it on, all the timing marks lined up @#1TDC. I adjusted the tension, double checked the marks and proceeded to rotate the engine. Nothing slipped, everything seemed to go OK, but when the timing marks came around again, they were exactly 1 tooth off. WTF?
  4. I am SO there! **EDIT: From the original "A VG Community" Topic
  5. 4" backspace on the WD's works the best. I went through all the same questions when I did my wheels. Settled on 15X8, 4"BS. Cragar Wheels
  6. Ok, not like I don't already feel stupid enough for that alternator/bolt issue, I have another problem I need help with. I've got the front of the engine apart to do the timing belt, water pump, etc. Everything came off fine, and I'm trying to put on the new belt. Well, it won't go on. It will go around any 2 pulleys, but won't make the 3rd. I've backed the tensioner off as far as it will go, and still no luck. Is there some trick to this, or something I'm not doing? :bow:
  7. My pleasure! Rock Auto was about the cheapest I found, even with shipping. And yes, it's a pain, but with a little finesse and muscle, it goes in eventually.
  8. What you're getting is called the "pressure hose assembly". It goes from the banjo bolt on the pump, up to a rubber section that goes down by the exhaust. When it hits the fram, it turns into metal tubing again and goes across the front of the vehicle to the steering box. Unfortunately, there's no way to just change part of it, the same thing happened to me. I replaced it myself, but it was a pain. The part was about $75 from Rock Auto.com.
  9. Well, I got it out. The 90A doesn't get here 'till Tuesday or Wednesday. But since I have the whole front of the engine apart (timing belt, water pump) I figured I'd get the old one out while it was easy.
  10. Yep, after reading what you guys said, I looked in the back of the alty. Sure as sh*t, there it was. It's off! As always, couldn't have done it without you guys! Thanks
  11. K, Suddenly realizing I may be a serious dumbass, where's the 3rd bolt? sssh There was one holding the bracket to the block, and the top pivot bolt. There's a bolt that holds it to the adjuster bracket, but that came off with the bracket.
  12. Ok, I was taking the alternator out (my 90 amp Maxima alty is on the way) -bounce- Bracket came off fine, the top bolt came out easily as well, but the damn thing doesn't want to come off, it just rocks back and forth on the pivot. How long is the top bolt supposed to be? The one I took out was only about 2 inches long. It doesn't look like it sheared or is broken, but that's the only thing I can think of unless i missed something. Any help would be appreciated. :bow:
  13. Yes, the new belt has marks on it. I don't know if the old one did and they just wore off, or what. I don't have the crank pulley off yet, so I'm not sure about the martks down there, although I know what to look for. I just wasn't sure about the dimples or the timing mark on the crank pulley, and obviously didn't want to move forward before I figured it out or got some help.
  14. Nope. When I got to this point, I stopped just to make sure everything was good before I moved on. And yes 5523, I did read the how to, that's what got me this far.
  15. Ok, I have a small issue. I have the front of the engine apart to do the timing belt (among other things). The two issues I need help with are..... Timing mark on crank pulley. there are 7 marks, but they're just lines notched into the pulley, there's no reference to degrees or anything. So, which one is TDC? By using the sight/screwdriver method I believe it's the one to the far left (if you're looking at it), am I correct? Next, there's no marks on the belt, but there's the marks on the cam pulleys. When I se the engine at what think is #1 TDC, the marks on the timing pulleys don't line up with the dimples behind them on the inside cover. I've jockeyed the engine back and forth and it looks like they never quite line up. Should I be concerned? Thanks in advance.
  16. How funny, I totally remember that commercial. They were driving through the rain forrest or something like that. That is exactly the commercial that made me want a Pathy. It was 10 years before I got it, but I loved it, and still do.
  17. I don't like it at all. I originally fell in love with the Hardbody style Pathy because it looked rough and tough, like it could go anywhere. This truck is a Pathy in name only, it has no heart or soul, it looks like every other grocery getter. It's a soccer mom car. Just my 2 cents.
  18. Mark, Sounds awesome. I get up to that area every now and again (have friends in Pleasanton). We'll have to hook up. I'm in the middle of modding mine as we speak.
  19. Muchas Gracias Senor Pickles! :bow:
  20. K, I'll be the one to ask the stupid question.. In the pic of the UCA's, are they laying right side up? I glanced at my stock UCA's and looked at the Rough Country ones, and couldn't decide which way was up. Do the zerks go on top or on the bottom?
  21. barthel

    Black lug nuts

    SS, Where'd you see those? Maybe let the rest of us in on the secret???? sly
  22. So, if I intend on doing anything more than trail riding, it would be a good idea to switch them out to the manual style?
  23. Sweet Slick! I'm going to do something similar. Same location, mounted vertically. I found some 3/8 NPT 90 degree adapters at the hardware store that will solve my top clearence issues. Thanks all, you've been a BIG help.
  24. Looks AWESOME KV!!! Dammit, now I have to add 1 more thing to the list of mods.
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