Slartibartfast

If the bolt head was on the bottom, it would tend to catch on things. And the threads would still have to extend into the pan, so there would still be some trapped oil, unless the threaded part was below the pan, which would make it stick down more into harm's way. But yeah, if you jack up one side, you can get a little more out.

I reused my old snap rings. The picture upload here isn't really functional--best to host pictures elsewhere and link them in.

If the hubs are locked, they should be functionally identical to the drive flanges the truck came with, or to any other brand of hub. I have heard of the auto-transfer-equipped trucks complaining when the hubs aren't locked--near as I can work out, this is because some of the auto transfer trucks read front wheel speed from a sensor at the front output of the transfer, rather than the ABS wheel speed sensors, so they get understandably confused when the front driveshaft isn't spinning--but this is the first I've heard of one complaining when the hubs are locked. The first thing I would do is confirm that the hubs are actually locked in. The Mile Marker hubs on mine (which I assume are the same 435s you're running) move the collar using springs, which allows you to turn the dial whether the innards can move or not (they'll pop in or out when the splines line up or when they're not under load). If the innards are bound up, maybe one of your hubs was stuck in the unlocked position--though this would only make sense if you locked the hub before going on the drive where it acted up, rather than leaving it locked from a previous day when it did not act up. I would take the hubs apart, check that the collar that locks the CV to the hub moves freely, and look for evidence of dirt, corrosion, or water (ice) that could've bound up the mechanism. The hub should not be packed with grease, but a little grease on the surfaces that slide may do it good. I added a little grease to mine when I installed them. Other than that, I would have a stare at the TF section of the '98 service manual, specifically the diagnostics. You may be able to get a code out of it the next time it acts up. I haven't looked through the troubleshooting for the ATX14A in a while, but I would not be surprised a wiring issue or sensor crapping out would give the same flashing, especially during winter. I had a failing ABS sensor on mine act up only in winter, presumably when it got wet.

If one bar of the motor's commutator is worn through, or one of the armature windings is bad, the motor will have a dead spot, and if it stops on the dead spot, it won't start again until something else moves it. I would guess that driving at highway speed forced enough air through the fan to move the motor past its dead spot. This would not explain it blowing for a couple seconds and then stopping, though--that could be a control issue. Still, I would check the cheapest/easiest thing first. If the voltage test doesn't point to the motor, you'll find troubleshooting info, parts locations, and wiring diagrams in the HA section of the service manual. It's got separate diagrams for manual, auto without navigation, and auto with navigation, so make sure you're looking at the right one. Also, looks like the auto systems use a transistor instead of a resistor pack, so, that's different. Allows it to change speed gradually, I guess. Probably less likely to start a fire if the duct gets packed with leaves.

It sounds to me like you've got a bad blower motor or blower motor resistor. I would unplug the blower motor and check for voltage at the plug (when the blower's supposed to be running). If you have power at that connector, but the blower doesn't spin when you plug it in, order a blower motor.

First thing I'd do is check that the fluid level is correct. Auto trans fluid levels can be tricky to get right. I doubt this is the problem unless yours has a leak somewhere, but, yeah, worth checking the easiest thing first. Given how fun transmissions aren't to remove, I would be tempted to drop the pan and check the solenoids that you suspect are bad first, on the off chance you find something obviously wrong. If you find a smoking gun, order some parts and see if you get lucky. That said, $85 for a used/lower mileage trans sounds pretty good compared to $350 for solenoids that may or may not buy you some time on a box with 270k on it. And then, yeah, you could have your old one gone through, or dig into it yourself at your convenience, so you're not rebuilding your first transmission in a panic with the truck on jackstands. Either way, the AT section of the service manual should come in handy, if you haven't downloaded that yet. When I flushed mine, I added an external cooler and a Magnefine external filter in hopes of keeping it going longer. The cooler especially is a good idea if you're towing frequently. Agreed.

Grinding into park sounds like your transfer case slipped into neutral. Shift it back and forth a couple times and make sure it's fully engaged in high range. The buzzing is probably unrelated. I had that on mine when the battery was low (I'd been working on the truck for a while with doors open, blower going, that kind of stuff). I think it's the solenoid that controls line pressure. No idea why it gets noisy when the battery is low, but it quieted back down once I charged the battery, so I didn't chase it down.

Maybe? The '15 Versa uses 80430-9KK0A, which sure does look the same as the R50 door catch. For some reason, the R50 has a whole bunch of different part numbers (80430-0W000, 80430-0W005, 80430-0W006, 80430-0W007, 80430-0W008, 80430-0W009, 80430-1W300, 80430-1W310, 80430-1W311, 80430-5W900), but it looks like they're all just different revisions of the same part. The first half of the part number is the same as the Versa one, and they sure do look about the same, so maybe the Versa catch is just the latest revision of the same part. If you can get the Versa one cheaper, or already have one on hand (that your girlfriend won't miss), it might be worth a shot. Measure the length of the rod before you swap in the Versa one in case they made it longer, and open the door slowly the first time until you're sure it won't hit the fender.

Try this one. I think it's the same file, which I downloaded ages ago, couldn't remember where I found it, and uploaded to Dropbox to send it to somebody.

All that's left is fuel mix or compression. Your short-term trims are way different side to side, that may have something to do with it--could be a vacuum leak, injector issue, something like that. Check your vacuum lines, including the one to the fuel pressure regulator at the back (also make sure there's no fuel in that line). Could still be the injector. I'd do a compression test before chasing the injector unless the spark plug shows a clear difference in fuel mixture on #5. Was there any obvious difference in spark plug color when you replaced them? Any fuel smell in the oil?

Yeah, figured you might've found that already. Good luck tracking down the right bits. Failing that, might be easier to make them yourself, assuming they're not too oddly shaped.

No idea if it'll help, but it looks like the Navara guys have similar issues. Might be a part # in there that gets you somewhere?

I'll bet a paintless dent removal guy could do something with that. Might have to drill a hole in the structure behind it to put pressure on the back of the dent. Or the body shop could pull/putty/paint just that corner, if that's all that's wrong with it. Gloss black shows everything that's wrong with a panel, so either way they'll have their work cut out for them. That said, I imagine a simple black with no pearl or metal flake to it is easier to match than some colors. I do minor touchups on mine with a generic black paint pen and it blends in pretty well, though that statement may say more about my standards than it does about the paint itself. If the gloss of the new paint gives it away, you could buff the rest of the truck, see if that helps hide it. Or, super long shot, find a hood at a wrecking yard that's the right color and not beat to hell. It's probably at the same yard as the not-cracked driver's side armrests and the steering column clamshells where all the screw posts are still solid.

Good to hear you got it! And good luck with your inspection.

5v is low. Maybe because the circuit was loaded? I would disconnect the wiper motor and power it directly off a jump pack or power tool battery or something to see if it moves like it should and just isn't getting the power it needs, or if the motor is bound up and overloading the circuit.

These are known for exhaust leaks (at the manifolds and at the Y pipe), and lifter tick isn't uncommon, but I've never heard that pattern. Slow crescendo of ticks, then silence, then repeats. Not sure what to make of that. Might be a heat shield or a baffle in the muffler that's loose. I don't know what would make an engine noise come and go like that. I am of course assuming that's actually what's going on and the potato the seller filmed with doesn't have some kind of background noise cancelling that's playing silly buggers. The acceleration video sounds like it's got a hell of an exhaust leak, or no muffler, though again I don't know how much is the truck and how much is the mic in the guy's phone.

Nice to see someone putting information together! Or at least a fellow wanderer of rabbit holes. Standard disclaimer, I haven't messed with R50s or lifts--just read a lot about other peoples' lifts/issues/findings. 1) I would call the original setup "factory" rather than "perfect." Depending on how you want the truck to handle, how much weight you add to it, and how much lift you're running, what's perfect for you may be radically different from what Nissan decided was good enough for a family hauler at stock height. I would also consider the shock length vs the ride height. If the shocks are topping out all the time, or they bottom out before the suspension hits the bumpstops, you're gonna have a bad time. 2) Track day bros put a scale under all four wheels to determine their weight distribution. If you know one, borrow their scales. If not, I'll bet a dump/concrete plant/truck stop would have a scale that you could park just the back wheels on and get a readout, if it's a slow day and the guy in the booth is feeling helpful/incentivized. 3) If you're looking for how much droop you can get before the springs fall out, you could jack up the rear end until the shocks top out, measure the length of the spring, remove the shocks, keep jacking until the springs get loose (or you run into the limits of your driveshaft hoop or brake line, keep an eye on those), and then measure the springs again. I have heard of coil springs falling out at full flex with extended-length shocks (and probably a few other mods as well), and the fix was wire or big metal zip ties holding the springs to the axle and frame so they couldn't do that anymore. Prices fluctuate and would probably be out of date before you hit save, so I wouldn't bother with that. A vendor name/link should last a little longer.

Let us know what ends up being the problem!

He said it was the Nismo version of the clutch LSD from an '87-'89 Z31/300ZX turbo. Not sure what's involved to install it. Joshua Ellis on the NPORA Facebook page said the Hardbody C200 LSD (also clutch, same design as the H233B) will work, but the Fronty C200K won't. There's a threaded insert that a stub axle bolts to, so you have to tear it down to swap that over from the open diff. He said he tried it, and played around with the shims, but ended up swapping it out for what he called a "pressure ring" LSD, probably that same Nismo unit if I had to guess. Others mentioned the Infiniti J30 as a potential donor, but I have no idea if that's viscous or clutch or what it is. I checked my notes and found 510's posts on the handling quirks, and they do not make me want to try it out for myself. Whips the steering wheel straight if it does find grip, spins both fronts and effectively loses steering if it doesn't. He said it was a liability more often than it helped, and that he'd never run anything but a selectable or an open front diff again. That said, Towndawg sounded pretty happy with the front Lokka in his R50. Not sure if that's a testament to the Lokka over the LSD, or just two different rigs wheeled in different conditions by different people.

The misfire is worth sorting out sooner rather than later. If it's an ignition problem, it's throwing unburned fuel into the catalytic converter, which isn't great. If the coil pack is accessible, I would try swapping it for one from a cylinder that isn't misfiring. If the miss follows the coil, it's the coil. If #4 continues to misfire with a known good coil, pull the #4 plug, see if it's obviously fouled or damaged. If it's not a spark issue, might be compression or fuel. I haven't messed with VQs enough to know how much of a PITA their coil packs are to get to. The torque converter clutch circuit might be a little more complicated for a beginner. I would look for any obviously loose or corroded transmission wiring underneath. There should be troubleshooting for both codes in the service manual, which you can download for free here. AT section for the converter clutch code, EC section for the misfire. Might help decide whether it's something you're comfortable with doing. The later manuals show a lot of hand-holding for a scanner you don't have, but they still included some useful information here and there.

I imagine a welded front would be fine on a dedicated trail rig, or, yeah, one that only has the hubs locked off-road. I leave my hubs locked all winter because I'm in and out of 4x so much dealing with snow, so the old Lincoln locker ain't for me. There are LSDs out there that you can swap into the front end (at least on the WD21, I assume on the R50 as well), but from what I've read, they also tend to make the handling a little spooky. Mr. 510 ran (runs?) one that's ramped, so when you get on the power, it grabs tighter. I forget his exact description of its handling quirks in the snow, but it did not sound like fun.

The tan box on the front wiper motor is the intermittent amp for the front wipers, and that's all it does. The rear wiper has its own amp. I know where it is on my US-spec '93. Hopefully your Terrano is similar. Pop off that lower cargo area side panel you've got the access door out of. (Grab and pull, but mind the front corner that goes under the rear trim.) Look at the hole you were looking at before, then at the upright just in front of it, that the trim panel hid. At the top there's a screw holding the front end of a relay bracket. Below that screw are two more screws, holding a U-shaped metal bracket, on the end of which is a black box that sorta hides behind that upright. On the back of that black box is a sticker that says AMP ASSY WIPER. EL-69 in the '90 manual (free on cardiagn.com last I checked) has the circuit diagram for the square-dash. The '94/'95 manual on Nicoclub (also free) should be about the same, though the round-dash moved the switch from the dash to the wiper stalk. I have not found a manual for the Terrano, unfortunately--both of those manuals are US-spec. Hopefully the pinouts and circuitry are at least similar to what you're working with, and there isn't some down-under-only koala-sensing-wipers option that changes everything around. All that said, start with the simple stuff. See if the wiper motor is getting power and ground. Chase whichever side of the circuit isn't giving it what it needs. I would not be surprised if the hatch glass lockout was acting up like Hawairish mentioned above. If you strike out on the simple stuff, then dig in deeper and see if the wiring has any similarity to the US model. IIRC there's a surprising amount of moving stuff in the hatch for a single wiper, so be careful around it when it's powered up. I would not want to try and stop any part of it with my hand if the wiper motor kicked on unexpectedly.

And here I thought you got thirsty! I hadn't thought about the finger hole for hanging it on stuff, that's a good idea. Might have to snag one of those out of the recycling. Did some digging, found some PNs. Looks like all VGs use are 10005-12G01 for the front. Up to '97 uses 10006-12G04 for the rear, '96-'03 uses 10006-0W060 instead. Out of stock most places, but looks easy enough to replicate with some scrap metal and a few minutes with the welder.

It's not every day that engine bay Plinko turns out to be a good thing! I haven't used muffler tape or Exhaust Weld, but I'd be surprised if they held up for long that close to the engine/catalyst. The manufacturers likely list a maximum temperature, which you could compare with an IR gun to see if there's any hope. Metal zip ties are a thing, again I haven't tried them, but I've heard they're good. Depending on how the shield is constructed, how buried in the engine bay it is, and how it's failed, you might be able to weld or rivet the pieces back together. Personally, I would still reach for the baling wire. Hopefully whatever you reach for is successful in silencing the fat lady.

You do need that snap ring. It retains the axle and keeps the back side of the wheel bearing sealed. It does not however stay in that inner groove when you switch to manual hubs. For the auto hubs, the snap ring goes in the inner groove, capturing the inner workings of the hub (the cup, the coppery looking deal, and the splined washer in front of that). If you're running manual hubs, the snap ring goes in the outer groove, capturing a larger part of the mechanism (the whole body on aftermarket hubs, or just the drive clutch on the factory style). If you're trying to fit the manual hub with the snap ring still sitting in the inner groove, that's probably what's stopping you. Remove the snap ring, remove the dial assembly from the hub, install the hub, install the snap ring, make sure it's actually snapped in and not just sitting next to its groove (might need to reach around and pull the axle towards you while you push the snap ring home), and then reinstall the dial. Check the torque on the hub bolts after driving it for a bit, especially if the hub has a paper gasket, as those tend to compress after a bit. The service manual wants you to check endplay on the CV after installing the snap ring. Should be 0.1-0.3mm (4-12 thou). If it's wrong, you can replace the snap ring with one of a different thickness to dial it in. The manual also wants you to replace the snap ring each time you take it off. I didn't do either of those things, and I don't think many people do, but, yeah, there is a spec for that. I assume it keeps the seal at the back of the hub tight enough to do its job but not so tight that it burns up. WD21s aren't usually powerful enough to hurt themselves (at least not the drivetrain), but from what I've read, it is usually a hub that lets go if anything does. I've seen one picture of a broken CV shaft (wasn't even the joint that failed, the shaft itself snapped off), but that was on a heavily-wheeled truck with a hotrod VG34 and the factory manual hubs, which are supposed to be the strongest you can get for these. I doubt you will have that problem with Ali Express hubs and what I'm guessing is a TD27 or a carb'd four-pot.