Slartibartfast

Looks like a very clean install, too.

I'd definitely do the T-belt, just in case it's interference. MIght be good to figure out just what it is, as well, and find out what common problems etc are with it. If you can trade it for a low-milage VG-series, you'll have a much easier install on your hands.

If you're looking for a place to bring the cable out of the car, there's a little rubber bung (a couple, actually) in the rear quarter panel that could work. One is on the inside (you'll see it from underneath) and is fairly large. The other is covered by the bumper corner, and is rather smaller. I think I'd use the smaller one, just cut a hole in it, force the cable through and stick it back in, maybe with a little caulk to keep it sealed. The plastic trim inside the back comes out on snaps, so just pull out the little access hatch thingy (I think it's for changing tail light bulbs), grab the panel, and give it a good yank. You should be able to route the cable into the empty space in there through the end (IIRC there are a couple wires already in that area, and a nearby carpet seam to route the wire under).

For pics I use photobucket. It's free to sign up. Upload your picture to PB, copy the IMG code (click where it says img code under "share this photo"), then paste into your post, and it'll show up.

What did the whole setup cost you?

Mine had two plugged up cats in it (didn't know why until now though!) and I think it started its life in Idaho. The exhaust guy who repiped it shrugged, cut them out, and put one generic cat in, and the truck felt like it reclaimed a lot of lost power. We don't emissions test around here though, so I'm no help.

I'm pretty much useless for most of what you're asking but the wiper motor... maybe I can help there. Because it's been sitting I would suspect the bushing where the wiper arm goes through the panel has gotten a little stiff (elements and disuse and whatnot). It, or the linkage in the door, may just need a little grease. There's also the chance that the rebuilt motor is still bad. (Poor lubrication, bad bushing from the seizing, cooked coils from trying to push a creaky linkage.) Worst case, pull one from the junkyard, see if that solves the problem, but I've found that a can of white lithium will get a lot of things going again. And before you write off the rust as nothing, give it a couple good smacks with a hammer just to be sure. It should ring, not thud or deform. My dad and I thought that my WD's frame was only mildly rusty, until I found the holes. If there's body rust to the point of replacing panels, I'd give the chassis a very close look. Also, this thread needs pics.

I'm pretty sure Cuong Nguyen did that on his. I'm not sure if he SAS'd it or did up the IFS like a stock 4x4, but it was 2WD, now it's 4.

Yeah, pretty sure the transfer case goes between 1:1 (H) and whatever you have in it for low gear. So you're stuck either doing the diffs... or adding more power.

Ouch... gotta look out for Saturns/Buicks, around here at least there's usually an old person behind the wheel. I pulled out the actuator for the rear hatch lock, cleaned it out, and got it working again. To my surprise, the mechanism was very easy to pull and service, and a little white lithium got it rolling again.

Alarms and kill chips are old school... I want a setup where I can control the truck with a cell phone, and chase the would-be thief down the street with it. The fuse isn't a bad idea though, I'll keep that in mind.

Funny... I thought painting dash pieces body color was just for posers... Kidding, actually looks kinda cool. Chrome can look really good in the right application. If done wrong (applied to plastic especially) it just looks cheap. Personally I like the look of chrome bumpers on a dark green Pathy. The problem with a donk isn't the chrome, or even the tractor wheels, it's the idiot who put them together.

With the bumpers painted body color, it almost vibes like an r50. Interesting. (Also, are you copying the IMGs from Photobucket? Looks like the ones that aren't working are missing the file and/or extension.)

Did you do the timing belt? If it's a tooth or two off, that would hurt the milage. (All I can think of, but then, I'm no mechanic.)

Foam filters can be iffy, too. If the foam is crumbly, and the engine sucks it in, I'm guessing it won't do the engine any favors. (I got a set of foam filters with the carburetors for my project car, and the foam was like angel food cake. It's getting different filters...)

"You picked a fine time to leave me, loose wheel..."

See Alkorahil's post above, what you're describing still seems to fit with what he said. Check your battery, if it's way low, then your alternator (or associated wiring) is probably the issue, and the car just ran it down until there wasn't enough juice to keep it going. Test the alternator, and check the wiring to it.

I figured out why the transfer case shifter had a rubber thing on it... without it, my right leg got rather warm. (Note to self: get replacement before removing broken part!)

I've seen Hardbodies (the pickup truck version of the Pathy) in the junkyard with four-bangers. I think someone on here blew up a 4-cyl Pathy... it was spurting coolant out the exhaust? I might be remembering wrong. Also, my 95 manual shows both the VG30E V6 and the KA-series in diagrams. It probably wouldn't be a difficult swap... the only question is why.

I checked my computer for codes the other day (55 ), and noticed that the seat had a lot of... stuff left under it from the PO. After vacuuming out all the french fries and mike&ikes, I decided to do the driver's side too. Pretty soon I had the carpets peeled back and the console out... The rubber piece beneath the fabric cover on the t-case shifter (bolts into the transmission tunnel) is pretty badly chewed up. Are these available anywhere? Or should I just hack in something else? (And, for the really stupid question... how do you get the knob off of the stick?) Also, there are two electronic things under the driver's seat. One's the alarm. Anyone know what the other thing is? It's got a black sheetmetal cover on it. (It's not broken, I'm just a nosy bastard. )

I use the overdrive on my 95 when cruising (above 50). I think I read somewhere that it does something with the torque converter? I only use it if I'm going above fifty, otherwise it bogs in stop-and-go and won't engine brake. Example: I'm going fifty, overdrive engaged, and approaching my turnoff. I let off the gas, and it coasts. I disengage overdrive, engine RPM jumps, and the truck slows dramatically. If I time it right, I barely need to touch the brakes to make the turn. I don't use it off-road, in snow, or pretty much anywhere except the highway. Then again, I'm slightly paranoid about cooking my trans (no cooler yet).

Sounds like a couple of busted-off or worn out gear teeth to me. Good luck finding the gear on its own, though.

LOL not much to see, only other thing I labelled is the AC circuit (compressor and filler). I'll label more as I figure out what it does/run out of real things to fix. The only other notable thing under the hood is where my friends and I spray painted Bill Murray's head. I printed off the "how to read computer codes" today, so I'll check the computer tomorrow and make sure my hack wiring job is working. I did squirt some dielectric grease into the connections to keep them clean and dry, and wrapped it up in electrical tape. Now it blends in with the rest of the wiring. (And yes, the connector in the engine bay is three-wire.)

The muffler guy replaced my warped Y pipe... finally, my exhaust is quiet! It's enough quieter that I'll need to keep a closer eye on the speedo...

Mine's rotting a bit, and we considered swapping a solid frame from a local junkyard. My dad decided it was too much work, and the jy guys wanted 400 for it (fair, considering the pita to pull it out). So we're putting a nice big solid patch on either side... I'll put some pics up when we get it together. The back where the bumper mounts is a little sketch, too, but it's not like we tow with it, so... converter and undercoat, for now.