Slartibartfast

Stupid edit thing timed out... Took a closer look and that link appears to be for a standard system. However... This looks like an incomplete scan of an EL section but it's got a segment on Zenon headlights. Vague info from someone who did it on a QX4--might be a lead if nothing else? Dunno, hope something in there helps. If you have to depin manually, you could start with an ohmmeter before testing on 12v. From what little I understand of HIDs I imagine you'd be able to tell pretty quickly what's HID (no current flow, since the tester puts out too low of voltage to make the arc) and what's not (if the aiming stuff uses regular motors or solenoids it'll show continuity). I doubt there's much danger of frying stuff if you test with power right off the bat but if you've got a general idea of what'll do what, at least you'll know what to look for (or what not look directly into).

B's got the right idea on putting the tab back in. Clean w/alcohol, rough up the area around the break with coarse sandpaper or something, then apply epoxy/JB. I've had some luck saturating strips of paper towel with epoxy and applying that over joints (poor man's fiberglass). Another thing which works quite well (and sets quickly) is to use regular super glue, then dust baking soda over the top of it. Then apply more glue, more BS, etc until you've got a nice blob over the break. It's a little brittle but quite strong otherwise. I used superglue and sawdust (same idea) to fix the grille on mine and it seems to be holding up. It's not holding much weight, though. I googled 'terrano wiring diagram' and found this: I didn't go through the whole thing (and I don't know what year it's for) but the aiming switch looked right.

Got mine from Fleurys:

They'll run with open headers so no, the muffler's not your culprit. Any codes?

Most people go the other way, but if you put in a later auto (the HD version from the later Pathy/Xterra/Frontier) it could be worth it. You'll have some wiring to do.

Drove into town to fuel up... or tried to. Ran out of gas three miles from the gas station. I knew it was low but the light hadn't come on yet... I was interested to see how much gas it would take to fill her back up... between the jerrycan and the fillup afterwards I bought 20.5 gallons of gas. I say 'I bought' rather than 'it took' because the jerrycan was shot, the baffle in the filler was unhelpful, and between them, a fair amount of gas went down the side. So I didn't find out how much usable capacity the tank has, but I did discover that you can pour gas in from a plastic cup if you jam the baffle open with a drinking straw. So, what I did to my Pathfinder today... I washed the quarter panel with gas and lost part of a drinking straw down the filler neck. (Anyone know of a downside to removing that baffle?)

Wrecking yard?

I seem to remember pics from a Mr. Jim run of a WD's top tank blown off, but that's the only one that comes to mind. I don't know why Nissan decided that plastic was a good material for a radiator but it seems to hold up for the most part. Maybe yours just had a casting defect, an air bubble in it or something.

I'm running poly strut rod bushings and haven't had any trouble with them. Then again I don't beat on them much.

I've heard of the results of removing the bolt completely! I yanked on mine quite a bit but couldn't get it loose... I'll have to try it again sometime.

I dunno how many of the supercharger optioned trucks are out there, and though there's been a lot of talk about using them on WD21s I've only seen pics of one done up. The factory superchargers were only available for Xterras and Frontiers with the 3.3. Only way to find out is to call around to local yards, and hope they don't know what they're worth if they've got them; I've heard they go for a lot on eBay. On the plus side it would be almost bolt-on, unlike plumbing in your Ford blower. You could in theory bolt the VG33ER charger right onto a VG30 but I remember hearing that the throttle body requires a little modification to accept the VG30's throttle position sensor. But why put a supercharger on a VG30 if you can get the whole VG33ER? You might check out Mr. 510's VG34 build. He bored out a VG33 for his, and even naturally aspirated/auto trans he said it would do burnouts.

When my horn quit it was because of gunk in the contact rings. Contacts touching doesn't mean electrical continuity if they've got 19 years of dust and old grease between them. I gave the contacts a half-assed clean and the horn started working again. Later the contacts started squeaking/grinding so I cleaned them better. I don't have a steering wheel puller so I just pulled off the clamshell and went at it with a paper towel and some spray (silicone IIRC) and they've been quiet and operational since. To the original question, it doesn't help that the WD21/R50 changeover was '95/'96. The plug I got for my radio install said it was for 1995 but I suspect it was built for an R50, because it didn't fit, but a '94 plug went right in. It's not unlikely that the manufacturer has the wrong info. I doubt Grant sells a lot of wheels to owners of '95 Pathfinders.

I know very little about carbs, but after a little searching around elsewhere , it sounds like the floats may be stuck. If it's literally dripping out of the jets it's probably not an issue of adjustment. Sounds like the best place to start would be taking it apart and cleaning it out, in case it's just dirty, and if the parts look worn or the seals are shot, see if you can source a rebuild kit.

Pipe flux (acid flux, vs the rosin flux) is supposedly bad for electrical. It corrodes the joint or something. I've used it a few times without apparent issue though. It works pretty well on coat hangers, too!

Doesn't look too low, but it depends on the truck. If necessary I'm sure they could tow or push it out the door and then bring it onto the truck. They've probably gotten bigger rigs out of tighter places, if they ever tow no starts/breakdowns. If it comes down to an inch or so you could always let some air out of the tires!

I'd check with Rob.

Did the transfer require swappage?

Next time you're at Ratshack, pick up some soldering flux. It's great for soldering to things that don't want to be soldered to. Good to hear you got them working, finally. It's never as simple as it seems like it should be.

Or you spilled a little during the oil change... that's my usual trick.

Might give this a read. Also keep smog regs in mind since you're in California. I dunno how strict your area is but it's not something to find out after you've done the mod.

There's a section in the FSM (AT section) that details how to read codes from the light in the transmission's 'power mode' switch. This wouldn't tell you what to do but it might tell you what's gone wrong. Depending on how far you want to get into this you could drop the transmission pan and see if you could unstick the valve or clear a passage from there. You also might look into seafoam trans-tune, IIRC a few people on here had some success with it, though this is the first I've read about this particular issue. If you get the valve unstuck, the trans would probably work better, but depending on how long it's been fighting its clutches against each other it may have other damage.

It'd be a hell of a project fitting it all into the engine bay but IIRC it's been done. I don't have specifics but I imagine you would want the harness/ECU out of a ZX. How hard could it be?

So, how's the rebel base out there doing? I heard the stormtroopers made a real mess of it.

I'd check the electrical connections, especially the coolant temp sensor and the mass air sensor plugs, for looseness/corrosion. Is the check engine light on? Try reading the codes (there's a how to on here, no code reader required) to see if the computer has any idea what's wrong.

Sure you aligned the distributor right? It sounds like you knew what you were doing, but if it won't even kick on ether, it doesn't sound like it's sparking at the right time. Might double-check the cam timing if the distributor's correct.