Slartibartfast

If you roll the crank over twice, the cans and crank should be in the same position as when you started (though if the belt itself has marks, they won't match anything). All you're doing by turning the engine over is making sure it all turns like it should and letting the belt settle in. Unless you're messing with the distributor at the same time, I wouldn't be too fussed about getting it back to TDC, though it wouldn't hurt to get it close enough to re-count teeth and be sure it didn't skip while you were rolling it around. No bleeding is necessary for the tranny fluid, it should purge the air on its own. The cooling system, not so much--there's a bleed screw near the back of the intake (by a sticker that says don't open when hot) so you don't trap a bubble in the intake. Sounds like there's air in your ABS module. I have been lucky enough not to deal with this but from what I've heard, it's a royal pain to get air out of. There is a bleeder on the module itself. I've read that gravity bleeding can help when the system's being difficult but again, I haven't had to find out myself.

The convertor grounds on the body, and I ran a jumper from the body to the wiring on the trailer with no improvement. It sure looks like a bad ground but it seems like that should've cleared it up if it was. I'm in Winthrop, let me know if you're around.

The steering pump has the same kind of tensioner as the alternator. Easiest to get to through the passenger's wheel well IIRC. Don't worry too much about the dimples on the timing cover. Count teeth between the dimples on the cam and crank sprockets. Should be 40T cam to cam and 43T from the driver's side cam to the crank. Some belts have the locations of the timing marks printed on them to make things easier.

'93 Pathfinder, mostly stock. The trailer lights worked just fine when I got it, but now they're acting up. It came with a draw-tite converter box. I plug in a trailer and all functions (brake light, running light, turn signals) work. But when the running lights are on, you can barely see the brake or turn lighting. If I put the turn signal on, you can see one side dimming as the other tries to flash. At night, I can barely see the hazard lights if the running lights are on. It looked like a bad ground, but testing with a new ground didn't change anything. My second thought was that the trailer wiring was wrong, but if I test directly from a battery to the trailer plug, the trailer lights work great. I tried the truck with a different (known good) trailer and its lights became strangely dim too. That means the problem is in the truck. I assumed the converter box was bad and got a new one. Same problem. I thought maybe the PO's nasty suitcase connector install might be screwy somewhere, so I rigged up test leads from the wiring to the box. Still no change. The truck's running lights and turn signals work great whether there's a trailer installed or not, so whatever is bottlenecking power to the trailer is not affecting the truck's lights--which is weird since the trailer light controller tees right into the tail light harness. All I can figure is that the convertor isn't getting the power it needs somehow, and the only thing I've really messed with in between it working and not working was the dimmer, which has started to fritz again lately (dash lights don't always come on immediately). Seems entirely unrelated but it looks like the running light wire going to the driver's side tail light is pink with a blue stripe, which I've only ever seen going to the bulbs in the dashboard switches and cluster. I need to study the manual to see where exactly that wire goes. Anyway, I'm pulling my hair out trying to sort this one out. Anyone got a bright idea?

If you find yourself dragging the undercarriage a lot, a lift might help you, but keep in mind there are a few other mods you'll need to do to keep the rig reliable. Just cranking the T-bars changes a lot of angles. The aftermarket UCAs fix the ball joint angles, but your steering will need some work as well. The steering centerlink is this hokey dogbone-shaped deal in these, so the farther from horizontal your tie rods are (the higher the front end is), the more they try to twist the centerlink. There are a few ways to improve the front end. Some people beef up the stock components, some swap in a straight 2WD Hardbody centerlink (there are a couple threads on what all you need to do that), and a few say screw this IFS garbage and swap it out for a solid axle. Speaking of the IFS, if you haven't checked your strut rod bushings yet, look up the thread on replacing those. I've heard good things about the sway-a-ways but haven't tried them myself. Sounds like they're a little stiffer. Reindexing the stock bars should solve the adjuster breakage issue though. Another option I've seen done is to just run bigger tires with no lift. 31x10.5 were stock on many of these and 33x10.5 are supposed to fit without much trimming so long as they're on the factory alloys. Then again, I don't know how easy it is to get odd-sized tires over there, and they probably won't fit in the overhead bin. Not sure on the jingling, but you can get vinyl coated chain that might be quieter. There's probably somewhere you could just bolt it to the engine and frame rather than welding. I've also heard of using cable instead of chain, or ratchet straps in an emergency LOL.

I would try lubing the motor first, could just be old grease and a pitted comm. Also check the linkage for binding. IIRC the wiper motor comes apart pretty easily and they're pretty simple inside. If you do decide to replace it, check the wiring first to rule that out.

I don't hear about many pressure regulators going bad. Unless you check fuel pressure and it's weird, or there's fuel piddling out the vacuum line, I'd leave it alone. Replace the vac line going to it if you haven't.

Could be flooded if you sprayed a huge amount of cleaner into the intake, but I'd be surprised if that hadn't cleared out by now. Take a close look at everything you disconnected to get to the throttle body and make sure it all went back together properly. If the intake smells like fuel or cleaner, you might try propping the throttle open with a screwdriver or something to let the air circulate and dry it out a little. What did you use as cleaner?

Contact the seller and see if they'll give you an address to ship it to?

Looks like Rockauto has the bumper, not sure about ends though. Mine was rotten too, but I had a set of black bumpers so that's what I used.

Yeah, that's not looking too great. Lots of corrosion around the relay. I'll bet the contacts in the relay are just scabbed over. I would start there, try and free up the relay arm if it's stuck, then clean the contact on the arm and the contact it butts up against with fine sandpaper or similar. If it's just corrosion, a good cleaning should get it working again.

Odd, I'd heard the R50 transmissions were a lot stronger than the earlier ones. Too bad about the VQ. IIRC some R50s had the 3.2 diesel overseas. This might be a good place to start if you're thinking V8.

I tried it on my '95. Noticed no difference except a headache from standing downwind like an idiot.

A backup camera would be lovely, especially with a 31" tire on the carrier. Not entirely sure where I'd put the screen, though. The horns are sort of behind the front bumper, below the headlights. IIRC you can get at them from the wheel well. I replaced mine when I had my front end apart anyway.

Mine were a pain. The bushings were seized to the pins and the pins spun in/wore out the brackets. I broke the pins loose, replaced the one bushing on the driver's side that was actually worn, then jacked up the back of the door to put the pin were it was supposed to be and welded the SOB to the bracket. It's really a lousy design and with how close the cylinders sit to the door, I was unable to get a drill bit anywhere near them. If yours haven't seized up (pins don't rotate when you open and close the door), then you'll probably have a much better time of it than I did.

I'm still on Photobucket. Their site is a pain but their mobile site is slightly better, so I just upload from my phone and deal with the full site on the laptop just long enough to get the links. I used Dropbox a few times for work but kept overfilling the account, which would lock it up unless I paid for more storage--even after I deleted the content. I'm sure there's a better option than the trash fire that Photobucket has become but I'm not looking to Dropbox for solutions.

If you have constant/switched and plan on running new speaker wires, you shouldn't have any issues from tearing out the old wiring entirely--or just abandoning it in place.

Yep, common mod. I've read that some of them foul the R50 wheels though so do your research there.

I recently learned that those were a thing. I imagine, like the sunroof shades or the bag you were supposed to put the shade in, most of them are broken/lost by now. I've never seen one in person. You might get super lucky at a wrecking yard, but probably quicker to make one.

When I swapped the mast on my power antenna, I couldn't find where the part of the mast that has the wire going to it would unplug. I had a working power mast from my '95 and ended up tearing it apart and rebuilding it around the part wired to the '93 because I couldn't work out how to get that wire out of there. I'm sure it has a plug somewhere but I couldn't find it, and the cable did not look like something I wanted to try and splice.

The gear varied by tire size and final drive. If you can get your speed sensor out intact, I would expect it to bolt up. I haven't heard of anyone having issues putting the later transmissions into WD21s so I assume it's compatible the other way too. Just remember to overfill as the WD21 trans has the fill hole too low. Oil and light taps is where I'd start too. Some of this might help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28934-speedo-gear/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26690-95-trans-into-92-speedo-cable-question-searched/ http://www.infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24906

If the wiring will reach, it sounds reasonable to me.

Unless "visual PCV" means something special in California, I suspect it means the guy looked at the PCV system and saw something wrong with it. PCV is positive crankcase ventilation--the line from the valve covers to the intake. It redirects blow-by gas and oil vapor and whatnot to the intake. If that's leaking, the truck runs lean, and a lean condition can lead to preignition--which the knock sensor picks up (hence the code). The evap codes aren't uncommon from what I've heard.

Did you write down the readings? Not sure of the specs but I would be suspicious of a reading that far out. A reading of zero would mean a dead short, and resistance that high sounds like it's just about an open circuit, and that's not good either.

The AT section of the service manual has some troubleshooting that should help narrow it down.