Slartibartfast

Sounds like there's a weak connection between switched power and the parking light circuit. +1 on starting with the headlight switch contact.

Sounds like you got away with it!

It would run rich all the time and throw a code. The oxygen sensor is how the computer tunes the fuel mixture. The computer doesn't know or care that it's straight-piped, they didn't have secondary O2 sensors to monitor the catalysts until '96.

Yeah, it's amazing what gas will do if you leave it alone long enough. My dad and I dropped a tank out of a CJ5 this summer that was parked in '99 with gas in it. The tank was rusted out, what liquid there was came out beet red, and the bottom of the tank was full of this black taffy looking muck that didn't stick to anything and wouldn't take a flame. And the smell! Hopefully the hydrolock was at low revs and it just needs to dry out. I got my console box bolted in for the first time! There's a lot to do yet but at least the main mounting point is in. I filled in between the straps I relocated the E-brake with to make a mounting surface, then bolted the console frame to that. I plan to bolt it down in a few more places before I call it done, but even with just the two 10mm bolts it's got now, it feels surprisingly sturdy. I'm going to test drive it with this in place and see how my elbow likes it before I move forward with the rest of the mounts.

The high pressure side isn't just a hose, it's crimped into the fittings and hard line. Unless you have the tools to make hydraulic lines, best to just pick one up. Rockauto's got them. Get some crush washers, too, if it doesn't come with them.

Only difference I've heard of is the shifter being bent a little differently because the HB cab sits a little higher off the frame.

There are a few around here. One R50 I see a lot, a couple WDs I see from time to time, and another one or two that I see occasionally. Plus a handful of D21s. Not a lot of obvious mods, though one guy's got a bunch of antennas.

Wow! Wonder if any of those warmers are still kicking around. I like how the security system picture's got three yellow dots for the hood pin and the door switches, then a bunch of red dots because somebody on the sales team thought it would look more impressive that way.

I got a little closer to having a center console again. I still need to figure out mounting to the floor, but before that, I want to decide if I'm cutting the legs any farther. Can someone who still has the stock console check the height from carpet to lid for me? I chucked my stock console when I had the interior out and I'd like to have this thing somewhere close to the stock height. Then I hacked up a microwave case to skin the lower part of the console. It's got a pretty good bit of flat surface on the back, so I cut and drilled it like I was making a gasket for the face plate on my cheap 300W inverter, then sandwiched it between inverter's face and chassis. It actually seems pretty solid. It'll be hardwired inside the console, thanks in part to the PO's abandoned audio amp wire that's conveniently there already.

Not much info to go by here. Squeaking at full steering lock is the bump stops, they do that, a bit of grease will quiet them for a while. If you've replaced bushings with polyurethane, and you didn't grease them properly, those will squeak. If your front end's stock and the squeak isn't at full lock, I'd go for the strut rod bushings.

So long as the VIN stays with the truck I don't imagine anyone will question the legality.

New ones I hope! All I found in mine was seven pairs of tweezers... I still can't wrap my head around how you lose seven pairs of tweezers in one truck.

The round-dash Pathfinders have a speed sensor on the transfer where the cable would go, the earlier ones have the cable going up to the dash. There's a test for the vehicle speed sensor in the '89 manual (only one I have for square-dash) that involves pulling the speedo cable and spinning it by hand, suggesting to me that the VSS in a square-dash truck is in the cluster where the speedo cable goes in.

Sixteen equal-length flashes. That, unhelpfully, does not appear to be in the manual. The closest thing I see is the light just flashing--rather than the flickering that is supposed to run codes. Could be it only does the flashing thing for long enough to get sixteen flashes. That condition is supposed to mean that the battery is weak, connected backwards, or was disconnected for a long time (in which case it's not a problem and apparently clears itself). Codes are listed for the engine speed sensor or vehicle speed sensor, so it's clearly not coding for those. Then again, your battery isn't hooked up backwards, and if it keeps doing this, "disconnected for a long time" ain't right either. Looking at the circuit diagram, I do see that the TCU has two power connections, one switched and the other unswitched, and both have separate fuses. Maybe the fuse for constant power popped, so it's only getting power on the accessory line, and none when the ignition is off? Something to check, anyway. Not sure why the tach isn't working (and that does seem like a signal the TCU needs!) but I might have an idea on the speedo. After I'd had my dash apart a couple times, my speedo stopped working. I took the cluster out again to verify that the speedo cable did spin when I drove, and then found that I just hadn't clipped the speedo cable back into the dash properly, so it wasn't engaging with the cluster. Clipped it back in and it's worked since. Could be an easy fix if you've had your dash/cluster out, or maybe even if the speedo cable got a good yank at some point and pulled out.

Looks like the two pumps are on different fuses (at least in the '03 manual I've got on my hard drive), so a bad fuse taking both of them out is unlikely. The pumps ground through the switches, but the switches ground to the same places, so if those grounds are bad, that could explain why both washers have failed. Do your wipers still work? My first check would be the pumps themselves, if you can get to them easily. A couple alligator leads (or wire scraps if you don't have gator leads) to the battery should be enough to tell you if the pumps work. If the pumps check out, check the wiring going to them for any obvious damage. You can also check the wiring with a meter to narrow down which wire(s) are bad. Looks like, for both pumps, one pin in the plug should have 12v to ground when the key is on, and the other should supply ground when the wiper switch is activated. Knowing which isn't doing its job could tell you which side of the circuit to look into. If you don't find something obvious, download the service manual for your year and look in the EL section for the wiper/washer diagrams.

Yeah, doesn't sound like vacuum to me. Sounds more like a failed oxygen sensor. There's a test mode on the ECU that lets you check and see how the sensor's doing. If the O2 checks out, my next suspect would be the temp sensor.

Huh. That kind of leaves the panhard bushings as the only thing left, unless the attachment points for the trailing arms or panhard are damaged or rusting off, and that seems like something you would've noticed by now. Any other symptoms? Mods? Was it like this when you got it or did you have it for a while before this developed?

The brake seems to work fine, no obvious binding and about the same hold strength as before (still needs adjustment). If I find myself with extra room after mounting the cup holders, though, I'll likely shorten the standoffs a little to soften the angles.

^That's a concern for diesel engines. A naturally aspirated gas engine with a throttle is not going to run away on crank case vapors. I did the ATF trick on my '95 once or twice just to clean out whatever crud I could. The oil came out black, but then, it always came out black. Didn't seem to change anything but it didn't seem to hurt anything either. Hopefully it gets the crud out of your lifter, and hopefully that crud doesn't find anything else to stick to on its way to the filter.

^Good to hear, and good luck on the highway test! About time that thing gave you a break. I started my center console build by getting the E-brake out of the way. It's actually pretty solid like this, though at some point I'll weld the longer strap to the plate below to take the wiggle out of it. http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg10/Darwinpasta/IMG_7144_zpstjzjauqq.jpg This makes room for cup holders (like what Nissan Nut did with his). The ammo can will fit into that frame there to become the new console box between the seats. There's room below it for a power inverter, maybe a 12v socket as well. If I get really ambitious later I may even skin the thing with sheet metal.

Huh. That's an unusual thing to fail. Good to hear you found it in the end, though. Nice picture!

If the locks don't work from outside, that's an issue with the lock, not the module. Even when my '95 was at its most annoying and the door lock motor was actively fighting against me trying to turn the key, I was still able to unlock the bugger. I did have one lock on that rig that was frozen when I got it and wouldn't turn. I blew a bunch of graphite in there and that got it working. It also made the power locks go crazy (see above), possibly because it got into the switch behind the lock that tells the timer you're turning the key, so I recommend finding something other than graphite if you're trying to get a lock unstuck.

The hardware store here still had a bunch of them on the rack when I had mine made.

I like it! Looks like a clean install. And unlike sticking it right to the rad, you're actually pulling air through the whole radiator. How does the thermostat probe go in? Soldered to the pipe or just slip in between the pipe and the rubber?

I don't remember doing mine in a specific order, but I did go around and loosen them all a little before removing them the rest of the way. If you want an order to follow, maybe just reverse the tightening order?