RF600

When I removed the intake to look at the injectors and the line underneath, everything appeared to be good. I don't recall specifically looking at that line. The intake tube is whistling off and on. I'm going to address that first, if that doesn't fix it, on to other things.

The diy smoke machine didn't result in the intake tube showing a leak. The EGR BPV valve did leak. From what I have been able to find, that's normal with the engine off.

I may have caught a break. I drove the Pathfinder and was hearing a hissing noise. Pretty high pitched. It was coming from the intake tube. I could squeeze it and it would stop. Squeeze it a different way and it would start again. I have ordered a new intake tube. Hopefully it is decent quality. It's new but made in China. I am gathering things to make my own smoke machine just in case.

I have the manual saved. I'm pretty sure I checked that mode on the ECU. I can always try it again and see what happens.

I pulled the intake, nothing wrong as I suspected. A couple of the vacuum lines were showing signs of getting old, but nothing that was definite. I did replace the lines in question. There was no change to how it runs. The dizzy is tight. I don't have a timing light to verify what it's set at. I wasn't able to turn it by hand. I can buy a cheap one or rent one from the parts store.

Because the plugs are pretty white, I’m assuming a lean misfire. Especially with the little pops out the exhaust.

If the timing was that far out, I should have starting issues or backfiring. It starts right away, no problem.

There are 2 people in the county that I reside that do the older vehicles. I suppose at some point I may have to travel to a different county in order to get a smog. The issue of finding a different shop is finding one that will actually help. I am going to pull the plenum off and look at the vacuum lines under it. It will give me a chance to ohm the injectors as well. I can look at the iac valve while I have the plenum off. The iac has been changed before after it was giving me an idle issue.

20 years is hard to believe

New cats within 5 years, if I remember correctly. I have put on a used intake tube. There doesn't seem to be any cracks. MAF has been cleaned. Even tried a different MAF that I have and no change. I have tried the brakeclean method with no results. Possibly the lines under the intake? Kind of hard to spray under the plenum. I haven't pulled the plenum off yet. It's not a problem to do, I just don't want to do it if I don't have to. The fuel pressure is where it's supposed to be with the regulator connected and disconnected. I haven't pulled the plenum yet. Let's say I pull the plenum and find no bad lines. What would be my next thing to do?

No codes are present

When it was warm at the smog place, the hc readings would be really good. Then it would jump way up, then back down. Too much fluctuation for the test. The egr test, push up on the valve, does what it should, run rough. I have put a new o2 sensor in. When I unplug the maf, it dies. Compression check is good, around 175 for all cylinders. Everything that I’m checking says things are good. The spark plugs show lean. The electrodes are grayish white. That would be a lean misfire, right? I will see if any codes are present.

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I went to get a smog check and the HC's were good then they went high. Good then high. The guy doing the smog said it would likely fail, so he didn't do the test. There was a light popping out of the exhaust as well. I believe it's unburnt fuel that is causing the issue? I have done recently, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil change. I pulled 1 plug and it looked lean. The electrode was pretty white in color. I have a different MAF and it didn't change how it ran. Yes it's used, but I figured I would try it. It starts up great, no issues there. I have not tried to pull any codes. No check engine light, so I'm expecting no codes to be present.

Or get quality hubs and not have an issue? They might not be machined enough?

They used to be available from the dealer. Not sure if they still are or not

You need to check stuff. Do you have spark? Do you have fuel? I believe you have a crank sensor. Have you checked that? Once you have checked things and can give more information, it will be easier to assist you with things.

I don’t do any crazy off roading. I only went 2” with my lift and am not having any issues. Something else to do while you are there, make a bracket to drop your e-brake lines down. With my 2” lift, the e-brake lines were tight. I don’t recall how much I lowered the lines, but I felt it was necessary.

I’m wondering if anyone has had an issue when switching from defrost to dash vent? After I switch to defrost, I can no longer go to dash vents. It seems something is hanging up. I once removed the control panel and was able to get it to go to dash vents. I didn’t investigate any farther than that. I will be putting the pathfinder down for a bit, after I get my car fixed, to fix some things. Might as well tear the dash apart if I need to in order to fix the vent controls. Does anyone have an idea on what it might be? How much of a pita is it to get to the box if I need to get into it?

I don’t have a part number but I think it’s still listed online

So how would one wire halos up to 87a and have them shut off when turning ho headlights?

Maybe I’m not asking the question properly. If the relay is hooked up to power, wouldn’t that give 87a constant power?

If you have a 2x4 it’s much easier. 4x4 sucks. Pretty much have to take the front end apart. The trans are stupid heavy. Be careful and use a jack to support the trans. Strap it down so it doesn’t fall.

The relay is hooked up directly to the battery. Yes the switch activates the relay to turn on the lights. The lights are normally given full power all the time. On/off with the switch. Where does 87a get its power then? Is there some kind of switched power that would turn on 87a?

But wouldn’t 87a have constant power?