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Everything posted by RF600
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You need to check stuff. Do you have spark? Do you have fuel? I believe you have a crank sensor. Have you checked that? Once you have checked things and can give more information, it will be easier to assist you with things.
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I don’t do any crazy off roading. I only went 2” with my lift and am not having any issues. Something else to do while you are there, make a bracket to drop your e-brake lines down. With my 2” lift, the e-brake lines were tight. I don’t recall how much I lowered the lines, but I felt it was necessary.
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I’m wondering if anyone has had an issue when switching from defrost to dash vent? After I switch to defrost, I can no longer go to dash vents. It seems something is hanging up. I once removed the control panel and was able to get it to go to dash vents. I didn’t investigate any farther than that. I will be putting the pathfinder down for a bit, after I get my car fixed, to fix some things. Might as well tear the dash apart if I need to in order to fix the vent controls. Does anyone have an idea on what it might be? How much of a pita is it to get to the box if I need to get into it?
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I don’t have a part number but I think it’s still listed online
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So how would one wire halos up to 87a and have them shut off when turning ho headlights?
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Maybe I’m not asking the question properly. If the relay is hooked up to power, wouldn’t that give 87a constant power?
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Transmission Tear Out Lessons Learned and Questions/Advice
RF600 replied to gamellott's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
If you have a 2x4 it’s much easier. 4x4 sucks. Pretty much have to take the front end apart. The trans are stupid heavy. Be careful and use a jack to support the trans. Strap it down so it doesn’t fall. -
The relay is hooked up directly to the battery. Yes the switch activates the relay to turn on the lights. The lights are normally given full power all the time. On/off with the switch. Where does 87a get its power then? Is there some kind of switched power that would turn on 87a?
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But wouldn’t 87a have constant power?
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I had considered that. My fronts are so bad that they are going to need to be broken apart in order to remove them.
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Make sense. I was trying to understand how to wire up 87a so it’s not powered up constantly, for halos or something similar.
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Wouldn’t 87a have constant power? It wouldn’t be switched power, right.
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Honestly I didn’t think to look at eBay. I supposed we are out of luck for the rear doors then?
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Since I didn’t buy the glass run when I had the chance, the are nla. Has anyone come up with a solution? I was wondering how different the xterra doors were compared to the pathfinder. Glass run, the weatherstripping or whatever you want to call it that the glass goes up and down in.
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That makes sense. It’s weird, but makes sense. I will try and stick that in my head for future reference. Thanks.
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I don’t understand the point of having 87a if there is no power to it.
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I think I figured it out. I went back and started over. I went with a 5 pin relay so I wouldn’t have to put 2 wires together. My plan was to use pins 87 and 87a. I assumed that 87a would be powered up the same as 87. Apparently that’s not how it works. 87a has no power when the relay is activated. That is where I went wrong. Lesson learned.
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I didn’t double check the kit harness before shortening things. The headlights work fine plugged into the factory harness. So no bad bulbs. I actually just replaced both headlight bulbs. It has to be something I’m missing, but I just can’t seem to figure it out.
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I’m not have any luck with my headlight relay wiring kit. The kit I bought has really long wiring and I didn’t like the non standard relays that came with the kit. I shortened the wiring and added the standard style relays. The ground wire was in a different spot compared to my harness so I swapped the wires. When I put power to the relay, headlight switch off, one of the headlights turned on. Which shouldn’t happen. I have looked at the diagrams on how the wiring is supposed to be, and everything looks proper. I'm a bit confused and hoping someone can assist me
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I'm looking for a piston and rod from a 3.0 or 3.3. It doesn't need to be good. I don't want a broken one. It's for a project and not going inside an engine. Hopefully someone has one lying around that they would be willing to part with for cheap.
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I can’t help with the size and pitch, if you can somehow secure it better that it is now, it would be a benefit to you. They call those things damage multipliers.
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I have tried to upload a pic but it says it’s too big. I have cropped the pic, but it’s still too big. I wanted to show it next to the cruise switch to give people an idea of what it looked like. It’s physically larger than the cruise switch. It’s not too bad. I like the fact I didn’t have to put in just a plain old rocker switch that would look out of place. Wiring was easy.
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I had it within 1 week. They are out of SC. I’m in California. So that’s pretty quick. You can buy different covers if you want. Pop the old one off, put the new one on.