snowboard419

Just Rebuilding everything from the headgaskets up. +1 or swap in a low mile vg30

400k Miles, very nice. Start with a compression and leakdown test to confirm the problem. At that mileage she may need a full rebuild but if the bottom end is fine you may get by with a top end rebuild. I did mine with parts from rockauto almost entirely except for a few gaskets I got from nissan. Also would suggest having your injectors cleaned, I used Injector Specialists in Colorado . Great service and good price compared to new or reman.

When I replaced injectors a few years ago I had the same issue, It has been a while so the memory is foggy but iirc I fubared one of the injector o-rings or dident have something seated properly so the fuel rail was just dumping fuel into the intake manifold.

That's the spirit, Its already F#*&@% so what are you going to do perhaps F it up worse big deal. I re attached all the coolant lines but ordered all new ones and still had to go down to napa an rummage through their wall of coolant hoses to pick one or two out, I purchased a large piece of gates heater hose to replace the crankcase vent hoses. Blocking the EGR should not cause any runability problems unless you have to pass emissions, even then if it was blocked and all the equipment was there you would probably be ok. Distributor should pop out , just the one bolt holding it in . If you end up needing any top end bits or pieces I have some misc odds and ends laying around.

Well the way i look at it its already f*cked up so worst case its still f#ed after your done. Best case you learn something and have a sweet ride after your done. There is a link to the factory service manual somewhere on here, if you find it download it and save it as they are not always around. I have rebuilt a few VG's in the last couple years so feel free to hit me up with any questions. Dont let the head gasket intimidate you its all nuts and bolts just takes proper procedure. If you end up pulling the heads ABSOLUTELY replace the exhaust studs as they are very prone to breaking, and you will more than likely break a few or more removing the exhaust manifolds. If you have the time and tools available drill and tap the holes out for larger 10mm studs found on the vg33. Dont forget timing belt, water pump, and all that. Also genuine Nissan Exhaust gaskets are far superior to anything aftermarket i have seen but they are a bit spendy. And there is a place you can send off your fuel injectors to have cleaned and tested for something like 20 bucks each, cheap insurance if you ask me. +1 on this if your on a budget. I have easily spent north of 500 to 700 to do a budget rebuild but that included a bunch of bottom end stuff also. Hop on rock auto and price out everything you need to see what direction to go. I have personally measured and reused headbolts on my rebuilds with no issues thus far, Not saying its right but i am cheap. Better yet swap a junk yard motor in and take your time to rebuild the one in the truck now if you find any major problems.

Not sure i understand this test, The compression tester has a schrader valve in the end of it and should not leak once it is up to pressure. Not true, The lower intake manifold does have coolant passages so that could be your failure, I just went to the garage to double check because I couldn't recall. +1 on all this , Run a regular compression test cold, if you find the offending cylinder with the steam cleaned plug and compression is good then remove the schrader valve from your compression adapter and apply compressed air to that hole, see if you have bubbles in the coolant. if you do than it is a headgasket failure. If no bubbles than there is a possibility of the lower intake manifold leaking, which would be much easier to do. And make sure you do a compression test on all 6, even if you find your coolant leaking cylinder earlier, would be a shame to do a bunch of work like manifold gaskets, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, headgasket etc, Only to find our you have a bad intake valve. I learned the hard way on my 91.

I only ran them that hard for a short time before turning the tune down for just that reason. But I have a box of goodies in the garage that should eliminate that problem. Project is still in the works but should be coming together in the coming weeks.

Whatever the difference in ride quality the poly bushings are so much easier to install. You will thank yourself for buying them. I did the oem style once and will NEVER do that again if I have a split poly option.

When I did mine I drilled through the rubber all around until I could get the center section out. Then cut the outer shell with a sazall. It was a pain. Absolutely go with the energy suspension replacement bushings, I believe you leave the outer shell from the original bushing in the frame and these fit inside. Just burn the remaining rubber out with a torch.

Careful after all that brake clean, go to crank and whoosh . Fire

You should do a volt drop test on the starting circuit. Take one meter leed to bat pos, other leed to the crank signal wire on the starter. Have assist crank engine. Meter should read less than half a volt .5. If it is up in the 1-3 volt range or more the problem is not the starter. Repeat same test for the main power cables . Bat pos to starter pos . And then move leads to bat neg and starter housing. All meter readings need to be taken while cranking engine. Pull fuel pump fuse so engine doesn't start. And dont get yourself runover. If it doesn't make sense let me know and I can explain

Still pounding on it. I turned it down quite a bit as it's my only vehicle at the moment. Added a catalytic converter to help with the raw fuel smell. But she is doing well.

The injectors in this would more than likely get you well north of 15psi on gasoline. I think most Subaru side feed injectors will fit with minimal if any modifications. But I have not had a chance to try any. A remote turbo could be a really good option for being able to keep all the engine accessories. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

That sounds like a PITA, not sure I would want to buy them, or anything from Schneider. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

I would be interested in buying the regrinds off you if you don't want them any more. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

No AC because the turbskie sits right where the compressor was. But if you mounted the turbo different you may be able to keep the ac. No CEl hooked up, I just keep an eye on the datalogs pretty frequently to make sure nothing is going on. What the megasquirt needs to run an engine well is, crank position, manifold pressure, throttle position, coolant temp, intake air temp and an o2. You can add knock sensing(which i have), oil pressure, exhaust gas temp,etc etc, as needed for tuning purposes.

In my setup the stock ECU is nonexistent, the megasquirt ecu does send a tach signal to the dash, all of the other gauges are wired directly to their senders so removing the ecu does not effect them. I had purchased a gauge pod a while back on a group buy here on NPORA but I lost it somehow. The only aftermarket gauges I have at the moment are, wideband o2, boost, and an led for knock sensing. All just stuffed in the dash, but it looks pretty clean. So every thing on the dash works like stock except the check engine light. And two atmospheres worth of boost wakes this thing the hell up for sure.

My power indicator light just burnt out the other day, that would make it difficult. You might check the throttle cable to make sure it's actually going full throttle if that's what the computer wants to see. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

The difference from pre ethanol to post ethanol is quite noticeable, especially while tuning. I'm running more boost with more timing than I could before. The difference pre turbo to post turbo is freaking incredible. Last I checked my mileage on 91 pump gas I was around 12.5. With the added ethanol I bet mileage is down to 10 or less. And I can't keep my foot out of it so that doesn't help Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

So I have turned the boost up to about 14.5 , and added about 3 degrees of timing so far and still looking good on all the data logs. Injector duty cycle hit 97 percent on one pull but all the AFR' s stayed consistent . So we will push it a bit further. I pulled a fuel sample and tested ethanol content and we are sitting right at 40 percent. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

I just got back from doing some pulls, I have the boost turned back up to about 13 psi, AFR's are a touch on the rich side under boost. I have not touched timing yet, but she seems to pull just as hard if not harder. Injector duty cycle is at 90% so I am right on the high side of that. My knock sensor light that usually starts to blink a bit at me when I push it this hard has not lit up even once, so I am definitely seeing benefits from the added octane and cooling effects. Next step is to dial in the AFR under boost and add some timing.

So I went down to the local fueling hole, and topped up the tank with E85, I put in 10 gal and figured i had around 7 gal of regular premium still in the tank. As I pulled it to a parking lot next to the fuel station to adjust the tune the wideband o2 started reading very lean, which is exactly what I expected. I added 20% more fuel to the entire fuel table, and dropped the boost down to 7-8 psi. It drove extremely well, and all of my air fuel ratios were pretty close. I still have some fine tuning to do, and need to get the boost turned back up slowly, but it looks like it is working well so far.

I am to the point where I need higher octane fuel than the 91 pump gas we get here. An E50 blend should put octane numbers around 95 to 100. You just have to supply 20 to 30 percent more fuel vs straight gasoline. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

I have decided to see how much ethanol the fuel system in the truck. I'm shooting for around 50 percent. I'll update you guys later today, wish me luck. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk

The way most of the guys go about doing the swap is transplanting the crank from the original engine into the vg33. There was a guy a while back making adapters but don't know of anyone currently making them. Sent from my Tank Xtreme Pro using Tapatalk