snowboard419

Yes factory pump is what I am running and yes the air oil separator will keep the oil out of my system and I could probably just dump the oil from the filter right back in to the oiler.

So I got a few things mocked up and at about 2500 rpm my ac compressor will produce around 130-140 psi at a decent volume. I was able to fill my 26 gal air compressor tank to 60 psi in just a few minutes. The only things I need now are an inline oiler and separator to get the rest plumbed up. I will also need to rig up a throttle switch of some sort because at idle I only get about 30 psi, I would like an electronic set up but a bike shift/cable setup may be the most affordable way to go. I will get some pics up in the next few days.

That thing is sweet, but my ac has not worked since I got the truck and I can do onboard air for much less that the refrigerant cost alone so OBA here we go, hope to have it completed by this weekend.

Planning on some on board air, I have been kicking around some ideas and have landed on trying to use the air conditioning pump but would like to hear from someone that has actually done it. The pump in my ride is a rotary vane pump and I cant find any specific info on using this type of compressor pump for air. I know that piston pumps work great but not sure about this one?

Hop on youtube and search for ChuckE2009 his channel is all about welding and fabrication, and he has a 4 part bumper build for a Chevy Silverado on there might give you some good ideas on where to start.

When it comes time to tackle the exhaust studs take a fluxcore mig and weld a washer to the broken stud and then a nut to the washer and they will come out with almost no effort I got mine out that way, had 4 or 5 broken off and every one backed right out.

I did look into the xterra swap but could not find one for a reasonable price except at a pull and pay and I would have overhauled it anyways hate to take a risk on a junk yard trans. I did not go with amsoil as I could not afford it at this time but I am going to on the next service il let you know if I have any adverse reaction. before my trans took a crap some shifts were hard, and some were mushy but after the overhaul and shift kit it is all very consistent. And while it was apart I noticed that the reverse clutch pack is a real weak point in this transmission, only 2 friction disks.

I would look at the linkage for the transfer case, sounds like it is definitely related to the t-case some how. also being that after you flip in and out of 4x4 hi low etc it fixes your issue for a bit, does not sound like clutch or trans to me.

It was not too difficult more time consuming than anything. And I took an automatic rebuild class a few years ago and that really helped take a lot of the mystery out of it.

So after 4 months or so I finally have it rebuilt and installed and I must have done something right because it actually works. The shift kit was definitely a good idea, the shifts are more solid and feel consistent through the gears.

I had an old fwd honda accord that had split boots for at least 2 years before the cv's got replaced, and I bet they still had a couple thousand miles left in them. As long as you dont mind people looking at you funny when they hear you coming around a corner.

I got the valve body almost completed today, I just need to torque all of the bolts. I broke a drill bit off in the upper valve body while drilling one of the holes for the shift kit but it was a minor set back. All of the valves were in good shape and every thing went fairly smooth. The instructions that come with the shift kit are very clear and easy to follow and the diagrams for bolt holes, tube brackets, oil passageways etc. was much better than that provided in the FSM. Here is some photos of the chaos. It begins Upper valve body completely disassembled ready to drill the required hole for the shift kit, clean lube and reassemble. Ready to locate and enlarge some holes in the separator plate for the kit.

Spoke with the witch doctor today, and they actually ship a voodoo doll with the shift kit which showed up today. I will keep you guys updated as I make progress. hoping to have the transmission rebuilt and ready to install over the weekend. still need to order the rear main seal, transfer case in and out seals, spin on filter kit, oil filter relocation kit, and some Amsoil ATF.

Well most of my parts are here, just waiting on my shift kit. I have never seen so many o-rings, gaskets and seals in one place. Here goes the rebuild.

I would not think an o2 would cause that problem but next time it happens try unplugging the sensor, the engine will run in open loop where it does not use the o2 for calculating air fuel mix and if that is the problem the engine should start to run relatively well. It might throw a code. I would think water getting under the distributor cap would be a more likely cause. But I have not had this problem before so I could not say for sure. Is your check engine light on ?

Precisely where I found the idea,

JP just shipped my parts today $69 dollars out the door and they were not sure of which front sun gear I needed so he just sent them both for no extra charge. I have decided on going ahead with the shift kit, and if funds allow I will also install an inline spin on filter kit.

I just found this place in TX called JP Transmission Recycling and all they do is tear down junk transmissions and sell good hard parts out of them, the people are very knowledgeable and helpful, they will even ship COD. I found the parts I need for 35 a piece plus shipping. So for under a bill I should have every thing I need minus an overhaul kit to get this back on the road, which is good because I really did not want to pull a trans at a junk yard. I am also thinking of installing a shift kit while I have this beast apart, any thoughts? Here is their website http://www.jptransmission.com

The manual swap has crossed my mind, right now it is just going to depend on what parts for this will cost or if I find a donor vehicle. I need the reverse clutch assembly housing, and front sun gear to get this one back on the road. If i find a wrecked manual trans donor vehicle I would hop on that as well. None of the trans shops or scrapyards I have gotten in touch with have had anything I need yet but I still have quite a few calls to make.

Thanks for the offer but the factory service manual pinned in the garage is more than sufficient. It covers everything in depth

They are not to bad to work on, there are just a lot of parts that have to end up in the right spot. As long as I dont need any special tools for installing seals it should be alright.

Well lets just hope some of the automatic transmissions class I took a few years back stuck, If I can find the parts I need for a resonable price im going to try my hand at a rebuild. So if anyone has a toasted re4ro1a in their garage shoot me a pm.

So after hundreds of dollars in parts and many hours in labor overhauling the Inferior Front Suspension, She was driving great and handling well. Drove it for about 3 weeks and then all of the sudden it did not want to shift out of first gear and there was some noises that transmissions should not make. And here is what I have found The smaller piece was in the pan, but not after it bounced around a bit and damaged some other components. It broke off of the brake band.

Hey everyone rockauto just sent me a discount code good for 5% and said to share it with all my friends, family & whomever else. So here it is 1477628611793572 Here is the rest of the E-Mail for instructions Using Your Discount CodeEnter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your parts order total. Orders using discount codes must be placed online. Phone orders are not eligible for discounts. Please note: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word "discount" in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. Code must be entered before order is submitted to receive discount. The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices. There's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks. This discount code expires on July 7, 2013; so don't wait!

They are Cardone Select brand, and the holes are very close. The lip on the half shaft mates perfectly with the mounting flange so if I drill out the holes Im not worried about having them off center when I bolt them up. Im going to call rock auto on monday and see what they say, If they will swap out for another brand I probably will go that route but if they will only do a direct swap I think i will drill out the holes.