snowboard419

The main clearances ended up at approx .003-.0035ish , just using plastiguage so not super precise, a little wider than I would like its on the far side of spec. I opened up the two oil pumps I had laying around and promptly threw them in the scrap pile and ordered a new one, just stock pump but I will install an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things.

In the service manual ec-12 for the 95 it describes the tps and gives a pinout of the sensor so you can test, check for supply voltage, and signal voltage, I usually back probe the connector with a paper clip. Any more back story on the issue or what may have caused it, daily driver vehicle, sitting a long time, recent wheeling/mudding trip any recent work performed on the vehicle. The more info the better we can help. also looks like cam signal sensor can put it into a limp mode

^^ +100 or bad connections on battery/starter/ground.

The Long Block is complete, except for the oil pan which I will pull off of the 95 because it has the return oil fitting for the turbo.

Update: Cylinder heads are installed on the block and torqued to spec. Finally got a chance to use the angle setting on the torque wrench I purchased a few years ago. Next is cams/rockers/lifters. And soon pulling the engine out of the 95. I have already removed most of the accessories, alternator, ps pump, fan, radiator, turbo, etc. Im down to the timing components and balancer pulley all of which I need to pull for the new motor.

Going with new lifters, I started trying to overhaul a few and it was a PITA so I ordered new ones, less than 10 bucks each. Im going to mic them before I install because one of the guys here had some new ones seize up because they were a touch large.

Cleaning up some of the cylinder head parts, letting them soak in solvent brushing scrubbing occasionally not really getting the clean I wanted. So I moved to a cheap Horrible Freight blaster gun, loaded with baking soda and it did wonders. Starting on the left is a lifter guide straight from the motor, middle is one that has been soaking in solvent for over a day and scrubbed, on the right is one that was soda blasted for about 60 seconds.

When you pull the relay and it runs does it run well or still rough? If it runs well I would think leaking injector/s if still rough I would look at ignition timing. First things I would check would be good spark, timing, compression, We know your getting fuel just perhaps too much. And definitely check those 3 before you purchase any parts because not doing so has bit me in the ass big time a few times.

The rotating assembly is complete and torqued to spec. On to the heads.

The crank is installed in the block, I went ahead and used it even though the clearance was a bit on the loose side. Pistons rods and rings are all put together, so far I have 3 out of six pistons installed in the block and hope to get the rest installed later tonight. The rod clearance plastiguaged at .002ish so im happy with that. Today on my lunch break I did a little bit of head work. Some very minor porting, opened up the spark plug drain channels, and also installed 10mm exhaust studs The 10mm Looks a little better than stock

Well I got part #'s from nissan but no parts they are discontinued, so ill search around a bit. Im going to measure my other crank tomorrow and see if its any better but most likely will just go ahead and run it, not sure yet.

So nissan does have different grade bearings available so I am going to take some measurements tomorrow and see if one will work for me.

Last night I searched the internet high and low for a .001 oversize bearing for the vg30e. Today I called my machine shop, and two other auto parts stores and I cant find them anywhere, they exist for other engines but not ours. If someone knows where to source please let me know. I am going to call nissan tomorrow and see if they still offer different bearings if not I think I will install an oil pressure guage and run it with an oil closer to 15w40 or 15w50

He finished the build in 2011 sometime, sold it in 2015 and according to the title the guy he sold it to had about 10k on it. So not really sure about the mileage of the setup. but at least 10-15k .

The turbo that is in the pathfinder right now I am almost certain is the ebay unit, no real branding I can see but I have not done any teardown on that one yet. Im going to pull it soon to inspect it and also see whats in the oil/filter to see what may have gone through it and then decide to use it or upgrade. I think I am going to source some undersize bearings just for the peace of mind, Ill check the clearance on the connecting rods before I order so I can get it all at once.

Alright I got a little more work done on the lower end the last couple of days, I installed the new pistons on the old rods. I fitted the rings to there respective bore, I did have to file the end gap open a touch to get the clearance I was looking for, top ring--.017 second ring .019. also checked the crankshaft main bearing clearance with plasitguage and have run into a small issue. Main clearance is .0011-.0022 with a service limit of .0035. I measured .003?ish. I found a spec sheet that lists different bearing thicknesses from nissan, I dont know if they are even available or not. I also have another crank that may or may not be in better shape. What do you guys think. Run it or find better crank, bearings etc.Any pros/con's. About the only thing that would worry me is maintaining proper oil pressure.

I just picked up the block from the machine shop today and got it mounted to the stand. Ready to put the short block together

I have not herd of that being an issue but that being said my harmonic ballancer pulley keyway is a little buggered on my crank I am going to have to do something about.

The crank girdle seems like a pretty stout part, have you seen them break before? Perhaps we should take bets on where the failure is and the winner can have the broken piece as a trophy.

Either remove belts or get your hands on a mechanics stethoscope they run less than 20 bucks and you can pinpoint noises like that in no time just place the probe on the pulley bolt or the accessory and see which one is making noise, pull the belt to confirm and your set. Can save alot of time.

The guy I got it from said he was trying to get it unstuck off a rock while wheeling and it let loose and sounded like @!*% when it happened. They towed it down the hill, tried to start it and all they got was some bad noises until it locked up, all I get is a solid CLUNK when I hit the starter. Im thinking low oil + extreme slope+boost+dip@!*% = broken rod or something of the like.

Just had a bunch of parts show up today. New Lifters, Crank and Rod bearings and gasket set. Water pump and timing kit are in the mail. I need to check out the oil pump to see if it can be rebuilt or needs replaced. Now just need to get the block back from the machine shop and I can start going together with the bottom end. I still need to get some speedi sleeve's for the crank rear main and the camshafts, both cranks i have and both sets of cams all have HUGE grooves worn in the seal surfaces.

So as some of you may know I recently purchased a new to me 95 Pathfinder that another member on this forum '2milehi' had installed a turbocharger on. The guy I purchased it from did not do the build but he did manage to blow the motor up. So here I go building an engine to get her back on the road. I was just getting ready to rebuild an engine for my 91 but that is going to take a back burner now. It is going to be a budget build no forged pistons or anything but as long as I don't screw up the tuning and don't get greedy with the boost it should be just fine. And to be clear I cannot take any credit whatsoever for the turbo build, that was all 2milehi. And thanks to his excellent build thread I wont be in the dark as to what he did. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29646-adding-a-turbointercooler-to-my-95-pathfinder/ The block and pistons are at the machine shop getting cleaned bored and honed. Ill fit my rings and adjust end gap when I get it back. I just got the crank back, in good shape except for the harmonic keyway i need to do a small repair. I pulled the best parts out of the 2 engines I have torn down currently residing in my garadge. crank, cams, heads, rods, etc. I am doing the headwork myself, they are getting freshly cut valve faces, a fresh 3 angle valve job. I am going to try and install 10mm exhaust studs. And I may do some very minor port work/unshroud the valves, also smooth out any surfaces that could create a hot spot in the combustion chamber. Here is the valve work.

I am super curious to see where it let go. From what the guy described I would most likely bet he over revved the engine trying to get unstuck and broke a rod. But time will tell. I am currently ordering parts and have a few things going to the machine shop, crank, block, heads. so I can get an engine built to bolt all of this turbo setup too. Hopefully something that will live for a while.

Yea I jumped on it quick, I definitely was not in the market for another project vehicle, and im sure glad my wife dident mind me leaving on zero notice for 9 hours to go buy something we dont need.