Towncivilian

Have you ran a couple tankfuls Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner yet (not the ProGuard injector cleaner, that's weaker stuff)? It's such a giant thread and it's been a while I don't remember if you have yet.

Well, it should be fine, certainly better than a clogged one. It's also in an easily accessible place, so if you have a problem with it you can swap it out with an OEM one. On my VQ35 the PCV valve is buried under the lower intake manifold, so using anything but OE would be unwise.

Heh I told you to replace the PCV valve a couple pages back I think, didn't I? Did you use an OEM part?

What about loose wheel bearings or incorrect bearing preload?

Go ahead and drain & fill the radiator with green coolant. It wouldn't hurt to replace the thermostat with an OEM one, but mine's factory and is still working just fine. Inspect your radiator cap following the instructions in this TSB and replace with a new OEM one if necessary.

Rims should swap over fine. I'd imagine the CV axle would too. Exhaust & A/C may not due to engine differences. Not sure about the fenders; due to the facelift that occurred in 2000 it might not have identical dimensions.

The benefit of the stock cooler is primarily faster warm up since the transmission fluid gets equalized with the coolant temperature. I guess in our damn hot state it'll be no big deal if you just run an auxiliary cooler and bypass the stock cooler altogether. I still fail to see how so much debris can collect that it ends up clogging the tube; I think poor maintenance of fluid is a more prevalent and more likely cause of transmission failure than the cooler tube clogging. But that's another story altogether.

All automatic R50s have the plate in question. Here is a picture with the plate removed:

Plumbed in line after the stock cooler.

Yeah. It's definitely connected to the auto trans though. It does look more like a power steering cooler, I thought of using it for that purpose in fact but ended up forgetting about the idea and junking that cooler.

Some 96 - 98 R50s came with small auxiliary air coolers, yes.

It's fine, I looked it up in FAST and the part number I gave you was acceptable as an interchange. This is also the part the guy at my local dealer's parts desk gave me, it's working fine in my Pathy.

Grease the driveshafts every oil change (any NLGI #2 lithium soap base grease w/ molybdenum disulphide; Valvoline DuraBlend or SynPower is cheap and readily available), change out the brake fluid (DOT3 or DOT4 fluid only) & power steering fluid (use a turkey baster or suction gun for the PSF, use synthetic ATF as its replacement, do this a few times with a couple days of driving in between to exchange most of the fluid; recycle old PSF at any place that takes used oil). Yes, change the coolant and thermostat (use an OEM one). What color coolant is in the overflow reservoir? Just get a Wix 33023 or NAPA Gold 3023 for the fuel filter. Be sure to release fuel pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse behind the coin tray and starting the engine, then waiting for it to die. Remove the spare tire to have more room for the change. Use a drain pan to catch gasoline that will come out of the fuel lines and old filter. The fuel pump isn't a preventative maintenance item.

R50 manual controls use a cable on both the adjuster dials. The fan switch setting is obviously electrical.

I'd go for 100 - 250 degrees. That way you can see better how quickly it warms up. And if it's over 200 for long periods of time that's a bad thing, so no need to go as high as 280 degrees.

Your blower motor resistor is dead. It is below the glovebox, easily accessible. Secured by two screws, you don't need to remove anything else. Part number 27150-0W714 is the part you want for an OEM replacement. It's $49.22 before shipping on Courtesy Parts, so purchase it from there if you can wait a few days. To the OP: Sorry, I don't know how to remove individual switches from the manual A/C control unit.

Afraid I don't know anything about trans temp gauges, sorry! I believe 200+ degrees F is undesirable in an automatic transmission. Brief spikes are okay, but extended periods of time at such high temperatures will quickly degrade the transmission fluid. I think you'll want to put the temp gauge sender after the cooler, since if the temp after it's been cooled is still too high for a long period of time, you know you need to upgrade your cooling.

I was greasing the driveshaft and I was looking over things I noticed the parking brake cables were not even. The parking brake is fully engaged. Does this mean one of my drums are out of adjustment? Also, the FSM says to lube something or other on the parking brake cable (see BR-34). What do I grease?

Well, I ended up getting 2x 7443-R45-T bulbs for the tail/brakes and 2x WLED-WHP5 for the license plate lamps. I installed them today, and used NAPA Syl-Glide silicone grease on the bulb wedges. (no flash, just tail running lights) In daylight, both tail and brake are brighter than the 7443 bulbs I had installed. And of course, they are instant! I'm quite happy with both sets of LEDs. The camera makes the license plate bulbs seem overpowering and making the decal sticker unreadable, but it's fine in person.

I bought a Wix branded filter for my Pathy from Amazon and if I recall correctly it was made in Mexico. A Purolator PureONE air filter my buddy bought last night for his Ranger was made in the USA. A Fram air filter I bought for my girlfriend's 09 Pontiac G5 was made in China I think. All looked satisfactory in quality. Fram's air filters seem to be well constructed for the price and I would not be hesitant to use one in a pinch.

Wow, very clean. Same color combo as my Pathfinder. +1 on the stock primer grey in the engine bay, mine is like that. That brake fluid looks nasty dark, change it out. Matter of fact, change every fluid and filter out and grease the driveshafts thoroughly. Get it inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall if it hasn't been yet.

See an exploded parts view on page AX-19 of the factory service manual if you haven't yet.

Welcome. Are you sure you have a 99? It looks like a 1999.5 which has the facelifted exterior and for all intents and purposes can be considered a 2000. You also seem to have an 02-04 roof rack.

None of the WD21s or D21s at my local junkyard have chrome handles. Would WD21/D21 handles even fit an R50?

The clunk seems to have disappeared, I haven't heard it in a while. I guess things just had to settle in for a couple weeks.