88pathoffroad

A buddy took the pic after I went over a jump. Hehe. By the way, I cross-posted on that thread.

Couple more for the books...

Jeez. Someone woke up on the wrong side of the coffin this morning... And as for the "When was the last time you saw somebody wheeling a Pathfinder hard?" Hm. Lemme see here. And those are just from my Cardomain site.

You know what, that's a DAMN good idea. I'mma make my own in the back of my Pathy. Thanks for the idea, Pezzy.

Harbinger: 1. Jack up front of vehicle and support LCA's securely with jackstands. 2. Remove wheels. 3. Remove hubs and CV axle snap-rings. 4. Unbolt brake line from brake caliper, tie up out of the way with wire or string. (Optional: use vise-grips to gently pinch off the rubber brake line so it doesn't leak everywhere) 5. Remove outer tie rod cotter pin, castle nut and then press outer tie rod out of steering knuckle with a tie rod puller. Or just hit the side of the knuckle a few times until it pops out. Most times it won't, though. Don't hit the threaded end of the tie rod if you intend to reuse it. 6. Remove lower balljoint bolts. 7. Remove upper balljoint bolts. 8. Remove steering knuckle, sliding the axle out. (Watch for axle spacers, they should be either on the end of the axle or inside the back of the knuckle's inner bearing surface. They need to go back on the same way they came off.) 9. Remove lower balljoint with balljoint puller. (Optional: remove and replace upper balljoint at the same time.) Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. Remember to bleed the brakes thoroughly before driving. This job's not that bad, but the brakes/knuckle are HEAVY. That's about it...and SAVE YOUR RECIEPT! Just in case.

If it's plastic trim, use Krylon Fusion spraypaint. That stuff does NOT come off plastic, man. Seriously. Experiment with it sometime.

Let's welcome our newest moderator, Precise1. I'm sure he'll do a good job. If not, let me know and the smack-down will be both public and humiliating! But seriously, folks. We needed another mod...it's me, Jim, Mookie and Precise1 now. Yaaaay!

The rattle might be your AC belt tensioner bearing. Or the water pump, I can't tell from over here. Bring it closer! Dist. cap and rotor should usually be changed every 30,000 or so, I think. Same with spark plugs, and 60,000 for the timing belt and spark plug wires.

It'll sell for more than $1000, no matter who here bids on it. I've never seen a cheap NorCal Pathy, regardless of miles.

I bid $25 on it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=4561485016

Yeah. The Pacesetter headers are cheaper, but there's a REASON for that. They're made in Mexico by children with stick-welders. *nodnod*

They're Taylor wires, but they're like 4 years old. It was my fault anyway. *shrug* It's fixed with electrical tape and silicone now. Ah well.

MaritimeMan fried his tranny, but he attributed it to using GL-5 gear oil in it instead of GL-4 like it should have had. Here, check out what happened to his input shaft and gear. The green marking indicates where teeth used to be. The baggie has the teeth in it now. Ow.

There is no aftermarket MAF sensor available for Nissans AFAIK. If one of the wires is broken, you definitely need a new one. You'll have to just plain get a stock replacement. You don't have to replace the whole aluminum body, just the sensor, OK? The hot air is coming from a torn rubber boot underneath the leather boot on top. Common problem. Some people fix it with a replacement leather boot instead. How hard did you look for the headers? Cause with one search on Google, I got... http://www.rocky-road.com/thorley.html http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...art=DTE-QH464-2 http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...1af3b6fb2b08bb4

Argh! You guys take this back into the postwhore thread. Quit whoring here. The floors are getting all sticky!

Mwuahahahahaha Mooooom! Slick's being naughty in the truck again!

Mine's an auto, yes. I've gotten it to go into limp mode by revving the snot out of it forward and reverse in the mud a couple of times before I put in the coolers I have on it now. Since then, I've changed the fluid and added a no-slip additive just in case. Still shifts fine, doesn't slip. I have 146,000 miles on the original tranny. *crosses fingers* *nojinxnojinxnojinx*

Yep, no ECU for the TD27...it's mechanically injected AFAIK. Tho there's a TCU for the tranny and other modules for the other electrical functions like cruise control, interval wipers and rear window defogger...

Whatchu talkin' 'bout, Willis? That's a spark plug boot with a hole in it. Apparently I tore it a bit last time I re-installed the plug wires. It's been arcing to the head when it gets wet outside and at higher altitudes. Been driving me nuts trying to figure out what it was until I found that.

Get some Bass Shakers instead. They're SUPPOSED to be bolted to the floor under your seats. Look it up. I knew a guy that had 'em and they vibrated the crap out of his Dodge.

Yup, I made a pair of 3/8" spacers for the TBI out of polyethlene. Easy to work with, takes heat up to 260 degrees or so, but no results yet on power gains. I was trying that to see if it would improve gas mileage and allow for better fuel/air mixture ratios by spacing the injectors up a bit higher than stock. The longer metric studs were damn expensive to buy, too, like $2.50 each.

The newly written-up article can be read HERE!

How to clean your mass airflow sensor, for all 1987-1989 VG30i and Z24i engines, as well as 1990-1995 VG30E engines. The purpose of this article is to let people know how to clean their MAF sensor because it robs engine power when it's dirty. Cleaning the MAF sensor often solves idle or driveability problems, as well as giving better fuel mileage. The VG30i and KA24i engines both utilize a throttle body injection setup instead of the multi-port fuel injection used in the VG30E engines. The MAF sensor on a VG30i is on the driver's side of the TBI unit under the air cleaner. The MAF sensor on a 1990-1995 is located just before the rubber intake tube on top, just after the air filter box on the driver's side. VG30i engine, sans air cleaner. Also missing a few things I took off. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. 4-cylinder engines may differ in appearance, but the TBI unit is the exact same from 87-89. This is the mass airflow sensor located on the driver's side(right side from front of vehicle) of the throttle body injection unit(TBI). As you can see, it's got one wiring plug and harness, and three mounting screws. Unplug the wiring harness. The end plug has a tricky little wire snap-on retainer clip that you have to carefully pry out of it's groove before the plug comes off. This is what the TBI unit looks like after you unscrew the three screws with a large flat-head screwdriver, then gently pull the MAF sensor out while twisting a bit. Try not to use a Philips screwdriver on these, they strip out very easily and are probably threadlocked to begin with and very tight. A rubber o-ring keeps the MAF sensor sealed in there tight. My o-ring stuck inside the TBI when I took it off, so I carefully pulled the o-ring out and rolled it over the tip of the MAF sensor so I could reinstall it correctly. These are the heater wires of the MAF sensor. They are the delicate bits that make it work. If you damage either one of these wires or it's missing, you'll need a new MAF sensor. MAF Connector Carefully clean both these wires with rubbing (isopropyl)alcohol and a q-tip(ear swab) or carb cleaner. Be gentle, or you're going to damage the wires. They are very thin. After cleaning, a bit of light oil on the o-ring helps get it reinstalled easily. Push the MAF sensor in until it seats fully, being careful not to bump the heater wires while you're inserting it. Reinstall the three screws, plug the wiring harness back in and make sure the retainer clip is reinstalled OK, reinstall your air cleaner and enjoy. PICS FOR 90-95 VG30E engine!!! (Thanks, Precise1!) Stock air filter box: if you can't find this, stop now! MAF sensor wiring clip retainer wire: easiest removed with a pointed item by pushing forward on the end of the side of the clip. Up close view of VG30E MAF wires: They are no more than 1/4" from post to post, so be gentle! MAF housing, sensor removed on side of stock air filter box: As it would be oriented if mounted.