Mauitrailguy
-
Posts
218 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Mauitrailguy
-
-
Mines on the tire carrier with that mount. I broke the mount on a tree wheeling so I welded the mount to the carrier. No issues yet.
-
Thats a random turn of events.
-
88' with 249,000 but probably around 170,00 on the engine. third axle in the rear and it is SAS'd now. I will never let it die. The interior is perfect.
-
Ive had issues with the starter not being properly ground, with that being said I would clean the mounting surface of the starter and check all the wires. This could be an ignition issue so check your relays and wiring.
-
I found a metal 1" wide plaster scraper dealy worked well. Very thin and sharp but wide enough it won't gouge anything or bend the pan.
Putty knife for sure, I personally just unbolted the engine and lifted it up enough to slide the pan out.
-
Thanks for the enlightenment.
-
How do you replace the bushings, I have an 88 and it looks like a welded pin, mine rattles like crazy.
-
A little off topic but now I'm gonna check the ones on my frontier and my brothers X. Can we get a write up on injectors replacement?
-
My wifes frontier feels like it slips a little when turning quick or sharp and the alignment is perfect so maybe its a nissan thing?
-
Take some TRE's, Ive bent and snapped a couple and was glad I had a few with me.
spare CV's
obviously extra fluids
maybe a spare alternator and belts
I would run purple ice
Pull the sway bars if your doing a torsion crank
Check the differential fluids
Im sure there is a lot you could do, I guess it depends on how rough this trail is. If it were me I would lock the diffs, get a winch and bring a F ton of recovery gear, just my opinion.
-
It looks like I'm way late to drop in on this conversation but I have done a 3" suspension lift on my 1988 pathfinder. Personally I don't like body lifts, besides I have an automatic transmission so it makes it a bit more complicated and I don't want to deal with that.
Anyhow, I bought a kit from 4x4 parts that included longer coil springs and new upper "A" arms for $300. After doing the swap I had an alignment done on the front since the new "A" arms screwed it up and I worked with one of the mechanics at Firestone to use my torsion bars to there max without ruining the alignment. This gave it a really nice 3" lift but it was extremely limited. No articulation and things weren't working properly. So I ended up removing the sway bars, adding longer shocks and swapping out the stock tires for some 31's (cost me about $1000 for all of that) . This gave me amazing articulation and off road handling. But terrible on road performance, but that's ok for me. This isn't my daily driver.
It didn't take long (maybe 2 trips out to Anza Borrego)for the CV boots to tear or slip off the half-shaft from the flexing. I replaced the half shafts for the hell of it, and it happened again. O well. So in my opinion the only sound way to go is a solid axle swap for the front. The rear however performs without any issues.
Those are all the parts I replaced. The only thing I ever noticed being an issue is that the parking brake cable stops the rear axle from flexing at some point which is a big problem but only when flexed 18"+ from normal sitting position.
Overall this lift has gotten me about anywhere! Only thing I'm missing is some lockers and manual hubs!
I hope this helps anyone else who reads this!
I also removed my sway bar both front and rear, it got sketchy around 50-60 MPH so I put the rear back in and it helped.
The parking brake can be adjusted, but even after that I ripped right through the rubber hoops the cable is supposed to go through.
Remember to drop the hoop around the rear drive shaft when doing the body lift. There was no bracket for it in my kit so I just used longer bolts. I had alignment issues also and poor articulation until the sway bar was out and I replaced all the TRE's.
I recently cut all the IFS out and did a SAS because I was sick of dealing with the IFS issues, mostly steering. For weekend warriors and daily drivers IFS is fine and the cost to benefit ratio is great compared to a SAS. If the rig is old I would clean and paint the frame when you have everything apart. It looks clean and will help your rig last a while longer. The bumper brackets that came with the AC kit were wimpy so I welded a whole new get up front and back. I would suggest putting new CV boots on when you do the suspension lift just to start fresh. As for fender wall gap covers I just used a couple semi-truck mud flaps and some bolt head machine screws and cut to fit.
-
These don't come in packages but they are good quality and cheaper than the standard TRE's. I would suggest getting a set of front wheel/knuckle assemblies from the junk yard and doing all your drilling on those just in case something goes wrong. Plus you will have less down time. The heims will last longer and are maintenance free. Tubing and thread inserts can be bought just about anywhere.
-
26$ and you send your old one in for a rebuild, sry that was confusing
price is up to 32, with core of 35 sry if I'm every where with this
-
Posted on FB.. I am out in Westport, so I will keep an eye out.
-
-
I agree with building, this is made from 3/16 thick. I hit a deer at 45 and as you can see, no damage. Cost me around 200 bucks to make this one and one for my frontier. I still had material left. Take about one day to fab and one to paint and install.
-
1
-
-
What year of jeep will give me the most lift in the rear end? Or should I just buy lifted spring for the rear. The spring I have in it are new but off a stock 09 tj
Sent from my Z795G using Tapatalk
Try bronco springs if you want. Jeffs bronco graveyard has a lot of options. This might sound like a silly question but, do you have any weight in the car on one side or another. Also, Looks like the torsion bars are off. There is to much rake to the rear for them to not have been messed with. I would be concerned with wearing out the front end with those angles.
-
88 2 door, Im on my second engine and third rear axle, and the IFS is gone, but still strong with 248,000. I couldn't imagine having any other rig. I have had Pathys since I had my permit.
-
Have you thought about using tubing and heims?
-
Rockauto.com has them, new is 230, but they have an option for you to send your in for a rebuild for 26.79. I agree with AJ530 on checking codes but I had an 87 that went into limp mode with a bad injector and for 26 a piece it might be a good start. I think I have a MAF laying around if that comes up as an issue. Good luck.
-
It has a brand new thermostat and water pump, The heater works but does not effect the temp of the truck and occasionally the heater got cold when driving and the engine was really hot. I think I'm gonna have him put a new radiator in it. There has been no smoke and compression was well within spec. so I'm taking heads off the cause list for now.
-
I might try the fan, the thing was hot driving from CA to OR at all speeds(about 3/4 on the meter). If not, im thinking of just going with some E fans, pretty cheap on EBay or amazon.
-
They work pretty well. I might change the angle to get more travel. I like that they aren't pressurized so you get a nice feel when driving.
-
Also, might I add that there is more allowable room for error when making a link setup. Check my post for the steering setup, its a double sheer arm for heims. You are gonna need to buy flat top knuckles and high steer arms.
What am I getting myself into? Advice needed.
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I dont recall there being flanges up to 1995 ish the whole spindle might bolt up though. Auto hubs are ok, just go slow when going from fwd to reverse so you don't bang them and snap a cv. Is that winch on a carrier that can go from vehicle to vehicle? Your tow hitch is super low which will inhibit your departure angle so try not to drop on it. lol. I bent the crap out of mine. So I put it in-between the frame.