Mauitrailguy
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Posts posted by Mauitrailguy
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If you still want a rear 44 I have one in Astoria,OR. Moving it to Grays Harbor in July, Also, Go check my SAS post, I think I put pics of my cross member on there.
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I built a 1990 4 door for my brother. I picked the rig up for 500 so I could have the rear axle with LSD and discs. I put my 88 axle in and put a new upper and lower plenum gasket in. new rear main seal, shocks and a coolant temp sensor. We also put the heater core, dash, stereo seats and other misc parts from his 90. I did the timing and some other stuff. I drove the rig form Fort Bragg,CA to Astoria, OR. The whole time the rig was hot, did not boil or get into the red though. It get almost to the line and stays there. Since this I have replaced the water pump and the thermostat with no change in the operating temp. It has oil, water and all the other fluids needed. Compression is good on all cylinders and I have flushed the system twice, it drains clean each time. The radiator is from his 90 that ran cool all the time. The radiator does not get evenly hot when the car is hot, and there is even some cold spots on it when the coolant is steaming over to the recovery bottle. Any help? I am completely confused.
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Radiator? zip code 97146
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Welding your front differential is dangerous. the steering wheels are meant to rotate at different speeds. it's how you turn! When the differential is welded, they will turn at the same speed. in a sense, you loose the ability to steer.
Not if the shafts are disengaged.
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33's and rocks I guess. Front end came up and then on the way down it got traction and "boom". Been trying to get a replacement hub from mile marker but they have not followed through on anything.
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Try Rugged rocks
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Looks Awesome, What color paint you going with? Any chance we will see some shots of the knuckle side? I cant tell how you bolted it through the taper. High misalignments with some 3/4 bolts? just curious.
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How does steering offroad(less than 10 MPH) have anything to do with the locked Diff. If anything you can use it to turn and change flex direction.
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Get manual hubs, then you can weld the front shut with no issues. I have seen this on multiple rigs. The rear will chirp and eat tires on the road if you weld it shut. Just read up on how open VS locked differentials work and you will see. Also don't use Mile Marker hubs. heres why
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How are you measuring your caster, I didnt cut my C's but am curious because the Driver side leaf spring mount isnt a straight 90 degree on mine and the only Issue I have is a little pull from body roll, and running full heim steering. plus my steering box is kind of worn. I wanna make sure mine is good, a pic with a angle finder would be good, maybe we could help each other here.
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Here is an update....
I changed allot of stuff here. The third link is lengthened. I made the mounts from .25 plate. Crossmember was a custom order as well as the steering arm which is double sheer for the heims. Kar Tek was the source for the misalignments and the bolts for the steering. They are F911, 20% stronger than grade eight. There will eventually be a truss on the differential mount, after about 7 hours of research and talking with a friend who is a certified welder, I determined that as is will be fine until the 37's and 3 more inches of lift go on, as well as the front driveline components. I have a line on a shaft, hubs and possibly a two piece shaft for the rear. Im totally diggin it as of now. I am moving over the next two months so things will slow down, but definitely more to come.
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Good copy on that, I have a bit of stuff to do. I am sure I can make room for a truss, I fit all this other stuff under there so I don't see how I could find a way. Thanks for the input. I will have updates over the next couple weeks as I get the kinks out, now to go find flat top knuckles.
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Yeah, I agree with that. I made allot of mistakes here due to inexperience. I have to move the axle back an inch or so and I have to move the third link mount back and much lower. Then I am getting a cross member as well as a custom pitman arm to run heim steering. I am looking for flat top knuckles to run full crossover and then I will deal with the track bar and exhaust. Then finally a driveshaft. This is getting pricy but I am gonna get this right before I drive it.
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Any suggestion on were to put it. It seems to be a very common practice on many applications to place it on top of the diff. With appropriate heat and feed speed it seems to be a sound option.
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Planning on running 33's. I was looking at the upper link and thought about the same thing you are saying as far as the length. The panhard is mounted behind the steering pitman about and inch.
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Everything is just about done except the steering. I am having an issue with the drag link hitting the cross link at the angle to the pitman arm. I can only think of two solutions, 1.) higher lift 2.) pull pitman off and rotate 180 degrees to point forward at center. I will have to cut the frame tab to do that but other than that are there any other issues with this? Suggestions?
So that just switches the steering from left to right and vice versa=not gonna work. Should have thought about, it make sense when i think about it. that I am going toward the route of moving the steering box up as much as possible. This is driving me crazy right now.
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Everything is just about done except the steering. I am having an issue with the drag link hitting the cross link at the angle to the pitman arm. I can only think of two solutions, 1.) higher lift 2.) pull pitman off and rotate 180 degrees to point forward at center. I will have to cut the frame tab to do that but other than that are there any other issues with this? Suggestions?
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Click on enlarge photo. Might help.
I dont recall there being springs anywhere in there, but I don't know what the previous owner did.
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Im thinking it was from an 88 ish, no vacuum disconnect
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Can someone please help me with assembly of my wheel/hub onto the spindle, I took it all apart a while ago and can't remember the order everything goes on and I think I lost some parts. I just did my swap last week and need to drive to get the exhaust done. Thanks.
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I have all the links hooked up, the third link on the passenger side wasn't gonna work with the starter being there and the issues that would arise with the panhard being so high up on the differential, as if I weren't already trying to stuff 10 lbs of crap in a 5lb sack that would have been worse. That being said it is on driver side. Lower links are about 27" long bolt to bolt, upper link is about 18" but it looks super short. I tried setting it down yesterday, but the panhard is hitting the top of the differential. I need to rotate it or move it about a inch. It was barely hitting but there is not cover on it right now so that issue will only get worse. Other than that things are working out good. I plan on fixing the panhard today and getting some steering on it possibly. All the links are completely adjustable and the local alignment shop said alignment should not be and issue given how much everything can be tuned. Here's some pics. What do you guys think.
More to come tonight, hopefully.
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No problem, If you need some better shots of the mounting points let me know.
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Hey you never know till you ask. By the way which UCA's are they? and what are your thoughts on them.
James
Calmini UCA's, not a huge fan. When I took the rig in for an alignment they told me the upper bushing were shot two weeks after installation. Not really sure how but it is what it is. Also, they are already a little rusty after just 2 years and the paint is already peeling off the arms. I also had issues with the nuts falling off of the cross pin where they mount, ended up welding those after months of trying things.
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My Brother has dibs on them, Sorry.
90 Overheating
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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It boils over, not sure how hot actually. I replaced the one for the ECU not the dash. The heater intermittently goes cool then back to hot. Really confusing.