Mauitrailguy
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Posts posted by Mauitrailguy
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Thanks for the suggestions. I think since the rig was on maui in the heat and alot of the rubber/poly stuff is work this may be my solution. And as always thanks for the friendlyt advice i will advise you all of what I find.
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So heres the scoop. My brother has a 90 two door I have been helping him go over. When I give it some gas it swerves to the right. When you come off the gas it swerves to the left . Any ideas?
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Mauitrailguy
Seems Big but PB say 480x640 SRY if it is'nt
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It's all a matter of if you can get the bearings and the seals.
Rockauto has the full rebuild kit. Iv'e never tried this. Is all the work done from the outside of the box? Do i need special tools?
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I had this discussion with AK9849cy when we were going over the initial preliminaries in the making of it. I had remembered in the past we had talked about it being better to raise the Axle mount side up rather then drop the frame side down to get everything to be set up more desirable. What he mentioned to me was that when looking into this option in the past, there would be problems with the raised mount hitting the Frame when flexing. Also, it would not be a Bolt on application either.
Im sure there is a way to make it bolt on. and possible so it pivots like a shackle? I might try this out
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My local Pick N Pull has a 88, but I'm in Redding. Not many junkyards out your way? I know there is a Pick N Pull in Windsor, but I think thats a 100 miles away from you.
Windsor is a bit away. I could make the drive I guess. My brother has one but he's in Astoria,OR. Im driving my rig up there on friday. I manage to tighten up my steering enough so It doesnt wobble. Still leaking though. How hard is it to rebuild one of those boxes?
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Hi, iam from czech republic and iam thinking about SAS on my 91 v6 pathy. there is nobody who has front axle (j. wagoneer dana 44, 1980-92)for sale in europe. But someone from germany offer me a jeep j20 dana44 front axle (1981, gearing 3.73). is it same like wagoneer? he says that the only difference is bolt pattern. thanks, Tom
It would work but you would have to use two different kind of wheels on your rig due to separate lug patters. Which means two spares.
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Today I talked to a master fab guy I use for misc things and I will be having him do all the mods on my Yota axle. I worked out the issues with useing a Yota axle in a Pathy. Instead of fliping it I'm going to chop it up, weld in new axle tubes putting diff on drivers side and use every axle upgrade from Trailgear.com
Why do all that work for that Axle, even with all the work done it wont be any stronger than a D44. If you used the money from all that work on a D44 you would have one heck of an axle. I am doing my SAS this year and am interested in seeing how you do yours. I was going to mimic the rear suspension in the front. I may steal some ideas.
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Whats wrong with the Calmini one that comes with their kit???....OHHH YEAH I HAD TO DRILL THE PISS OUT OF IT. THANKS CALMINI
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I've had mine in the dunes over in St. Anthony, but I stayed close to the lake. For those of you not familiar with St. Anthony, yes, there is a lake in the middle of the dunes. Even then, I was paranoid of getting stuck in the dry, soft sand. If you're driving in the sand, keep a close watch on those CV axles. If they tear, like mine did, you'll have a big problem. I steered clear of sand last year because both of my boots are all torn up. Replacing axles may not be so bad, but I hate to think what might happen if you manage to get sand in the transmission.
I cant imagine what you would have to do to get sand in the trans.
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D30s are ok, gearing is ok also, I bought one sunday with 4.88s and chromoly shafts for 300 bucks. Now I just need a 4.9 rear pig.
d30 dont break, OSR, there housings bend, if there breaking shafts there housing is already bent.
You find them from 25-400 bucks, with higher end ones being sold around 400. For a pathfinder there fine, there like a toyota axle but cheaper too find.
Also, OSR, if there breaking axles or housings with tires less then 33"s then there beating the living @!*% out of there trucks.
For an aol lift there good enough.
Now if the OP is looking to run 34+ inch tires then yes a d44 will work loads better then a d30. And in that case I would say get a large knuckle ford d44 front.
then swith to chevy knuckles for strength and parts availability
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What part of Nor Cal you in?
Fort Bragg/Mendocino County
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Steering gear box is leaking and truck getts real wobbly sometimes. I have to drive from nor cal to astoria jan 9th. if anyone can help me out i need a replacement STAT. I can afford no down time.
Thanks in advance, Jake
Update: My brother has one in Astoria OR. Its a 800+mile drive. Should i do the install there or when i get back. What could go wrong(other than everything)? Has anyone had these issues?
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I bought an 87 that did the same thing. It was a bad injector. Something to think about. Open air filter and watch them function
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My suggestion to you is to replace the wiring for the speakers while you are in there. Much better sound quality can be achieved with the new wires they sell theses days and a 30' roll will probably cost around 15$. Have fun and good luck
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Do you have some good headlights and a passenger mirror? Mirror is broken and both headlights are pitted allowing moisture and discoloration on the inside. Cheapest I've found is about 40 bucks + shipping-which seems like a lot for a low buck project. The wife doesn't need the extra rig now so the goal is to resell, and if I spiff up those and a couple more things it will look better to a buyer. Thanks.
I have headlights.
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Timing belts are very important. When i did mine I put to much tension on it and broke the tensioner stud in turn, bending valves. Did a engine swap now I have 160K on engine and 230k on body.
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Mauitrailguy I call this one "new open rear differential"
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http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan.html
Website that shows nissan transmission part numbers. This can be used for swap information.
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thanks for that ill remember that in the future. might be a good "get me home trick"
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I guess I was able to my swap without taking the diff. out because I have a 3" BL giving me the extra space to jack the engine up then come forward.
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Did the swap. Went smooth. Much more power now to. I also took the open diff axle. so now I have the option of a detroit for about 300 dollars less.
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Get a new flywheel or get the one you have thoroughly inspected and resurfaced. If you come across parts you need. I have all the parts from and 87 that I completely disassembled.
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Ok, what sensor is this? (The yellow plug)
Need to switch it over to the new engine (Which had nothing in that hole). When I went to unscrew it something broke and now the nut just turns freely. I suspect it's just a temp gauge sensor. Only thing is that it does not go into the water jacket, it's just a threaded hole in the head that ends. If it's a gauge sensor I could live without it, but if it hooks to the computer I need it. Can't go to the parts store for a new one if I don't know what it is! As you can see from the photo it's on the LH head just above and behind the water pump.
Deifinitly do the timing belt. I would pout all new exhaust studs in while the engines out, as these can be a PITA later if needed. I dont have that sensor, mine is on the throttle body. I just went through a engine swap. I didnt have to remove cross members or my Diff. May I ask why you had to?
Feb 2012 Nominations
in Truck of the Month
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Mauitrailguy