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Mauitrailguy

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Posts posted by Mauitrailguy

  1. (Oops. Just noticed this thread is under the wrong topic. My Pathy is a '93.)

     

    Okay.

     

    I think the issue with the rear wheels rotating at the same speed is solved; it definitely feels that way. At very low speeds (0 - 15mph or so), when I was feeling it the most, steering feels extremely smooth. The wheel turns smoothly, the tires don't skid a bit, nothing.

     

    The rear-axle noise is still there, though it's definitely much more quiet. Up to 60mph or so, I can hear wind noise, the engine (when accelerating), and it no longer "feels" like the auto transmission is taking way too long to shift. The rear axle noise starts out at a lower pitch and gradually gets higher and louder the faster the Pathy's going; I guess I was partly using that noise as part of my regular cues about when the transmission should shift. At around 55-65mph or so, the noise gets pretty loud (though it could be because that pitch range is resonating with something in the body). At 70mph, the Pathy and the steering wheel shake just a bit (though I guess this may be a separate problem).

     

    The differential job the lube place did looks fine. They didn't replace the plugs (I don't think), but nothing's leaking or anything obvious (to me).

     

    Any ideas? Maybe I should start a new thread for this issue if it's a different problem.

     

    Was it leaking from where the driveshaft hooks up? Could be a bad pinion bearing..

  2. I would pull the timing belt cover and get the timing to TDC and check all your markings. This would rule out timing. seems like we keep coming back to that. If you rule that out I would verify you ECU is functioning properly. then move on to bad grounds. This is just what I would do.

  3. So I have an 87 that I was parting out. Compression is 160 all around. Going to swap it in and then rebuild the current one as a spare but wit 300 zx parts. The 87 has 156xxx miles on it compared to the 227xxx on my current engine. plus no cost to me to do the swap except for some gaskets ETC.

  4. So heres a long story made short.

     

    The stud for the timing belt tensioner broke while running. Pathy died. I towed it home and did a timing belt and fixed the stud. Put it all back together and now....no compression on cylinders 3 and 4. All others is 180 Kpa. I have heard we have "interference" engines. Haven't taken the valve covers off and looked and whats going on. It still runs, but like @!*%. What do you guys think?

  5. Electric and hydraulic lockers for a wd21?? Maybe, but I have never heard of them. :shrug:

     

    Yes, I forgot the ARB air locker, but I rarely consider a $1000 locker. Too rich for my blood... :D

     

    B

    Gotta agree there. I have a 87' with open diff. how hard would the swap be to my 88' and to install a detroit?

  6. Not on a WD21. It's almost the same amount of work either way (fuel filler being the major difference). ON a WD22 Xterra, there's a big difference between 2-3" body lifts in terms of how much work is involved.

     

    You are mistaken. You don't have to move anything with a 2" BL. As for a 3" BL you do need to readjust the cruise control. Relocate the steering pump reservoir and lengthen you fuel fill hose. A radiator drop down bracket is recommended but not necessary.

     

    As far as a pan hard bracket Calmini made mine, but the holes were off about 1/16th of an inch. I drilled them out. This helps correct the angle so the vehicle doesn't try and pull to one side when flexing.

  7. I bought it, It does have a MT. Interior is clean, Charcoal/Brown color. It runs but wont go above 2000 RPM. Blowing a bit of smoke. Both brake and oil light were on while it was running. dont know exactly what route im going to take with this thing. I will post pics on Friday and a Vid of it running maybe you guys can help me figue it out...engine only has 150k and i could use it the rest is first come first serve.

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