Mauitrailguy
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Posts posted by Mauitrailguy
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Thanks to a lot of time, research and advice the SAS began yesterday. This is a little nerve racking but I'm about a third done IMO. Please send advice and chime in as this is on going. I am planning on putting the third link on the passenger side. The joints have not arrived yet but they are 1.25" heims with high missalignment. Inside frame pan hard with same joints ran to the top of the differential. The steering will remain the Waggy steering until the suspension is dialed, but before the alignment I will switch it up. I'm still working the details of that out. I am using the same coils as the rear, Calmini 3 inch lift coils and shocks. Bring on the comments, please dont be a jerk, I am learning and this is stressful, but insight is welcome.
DOM
And so it gets cut out.
Thanks to NissanNut I have the right brake parts
Made these from .25" plate
Axle alligned and marked every inch from the knuckle
Frame reinforced
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Frontier
Pathy
Mounted straight back to the frame with 3/16 plate. I hit a deer going 40 and it didnt even phase the bumper, there was some hair in the d-ring.
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WD21 disk swaps aren't difficult because there are original disk brake axles out there to swap in. But as far as I can tell, the R50 only ever had rear drum brakes, so the swap would have to be from a different vehicle.
I dont know how much work you want to do but here is what I was talking about
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WD21 disk swaps aren't difficult because there are original disk brake axles out there to swap in. But as far as I can tell, the R50 only ever had rear drum brakes, so the swap would have to be from a different vehicle.
I dont know how much work you want to do but here is what I was talking about
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Super helpful thanks. I am gonna start my build thread tonight. I just came inside from building the coil buckets to check on this and grab some lunch. I'll go hop around pirate 4x4 tonight seeing as though USPS has a bad concept of 2 day priority for all my link mounts and heims, stuck in build purgatory
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Yeah, I can see what your talking about with the starter that would be bad. I am in the process of my SAS right now and was intending on putting third link on the pass. side. I have the frame bare and the axle set, just wanted to know before I committed to all the welds. I can put the link wherever, just wanted to make sure there wasn't some rhyme or reason to the driver side. Also, where did you get your driveshaft?
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This may be a silly question but, how come every one puts the third link to the top of the diff instead of on the passenger side to a tower. There is way more room on that side of the frame and you can run the panhard to the top of the diff which would also in my opinion make it easier to keep it level. The only issue I see is the panhard hitting the diiferential when the drivers side travels up.
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Do you have welding capabilities. I made my own bumper, if you would like I can send pics of mine on my 88 and my wifes on her 01 frontier for you to reference.
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I swapped the entire axle for discs and limited slip. Nissan nut has done some work with brakes also.
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The key is completely sheered and the crank has damage to it in the direction of spin. I have read up on using some loctite 660 to mend the keyway. The cranks has two keys on this rig, one for the crank timing sprocket and one for the dampner. The original plan was to put the engine from the two door(failed key) into this 4 door 90 I have because my brother has kids and he told me the engine ran good. I have my doubts about the engine in the 4 door. the check engine light is on and it blows some smoke. I might be able to salvage the 4 door engine then fix the 2 door engine on my own time. What is a JDM engine and how much do they run for?
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Is the keyway on the balance shaft intact?
what he said , can you tell if just the pulley is turning or the crank too?
just pulled it off. Key is sheered. Do i find one and put it all together or say F#@% it and swap? I have another 90 here that runs-ish.
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To make a long story short, my brothers 90 broke down on the way to my house. I brought it home and began to trouble shoot. I started with the timing because the way it was acting. While doing the timing I got it all set TDC and reset the timing belt that was only a tooth off. After using the crank bolt to spin the engine a couple times to get the slack out I went to remove the crank bolt. When I turned it left the crank turned left but not the cam or the timing belt pulley on the crank. There is no resistance when turning either way. Thoughts?
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I used a cherry picker with double braided nylon around the trans through the passenger side door with the seats removed.
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I have a three inch body lift, when I did my swap after snapping a timing belt I didn't bump the diff. It is easier to take the trans out then the engine. Also I used a engine hoist to do my trans the past two times I had it out. It allows forward and side to side motion a lot better so you can line the splines up. As for the swap, good luck I have been looking around for a while and it doesn't seem worth the effort. Good luck with you project, you can PM me if you need I have done a swap and a couple of clutch jobs. About to pull a engine on a 90 this weekend, bought it for 500 and its hammered. needs to be pulled and all new gaskets and seals.
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It was just a thought, if you read the rest of the thread the Amigo rear end is supposed to be a d44. But I will check the frontend and make sure. Is the prices to much or is that about normal???
Don't worry about the rear end. Get the front done first, then match up your gearing within 5 %. easy to do with all the options available from G2. If your still looking for an axle. Find a Wagoneer ( or any D-side drop jeep) and use that. They are about the same width. Most yota or chevy is gonna be a P- side drop. You can put flat top chevy knuckles on just about any dana axle.
The better axle is a 77 or earlier f150 that you can just grind a c off the long side cut 3" off it and weld it back on then hang some chevy outers on it!
This is not safe. You should not cut all the way through the inner sleeve. I have heard horror stories of the weld snapping and causing major accidents. This happened to a guy who tried this in the area I live and he went off the road into someones yard.
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His air cleaner is fine without the restrictive accordion tube, TBIs run crappy without the entire assembly though. Back pressure - so very wrong.
What do you mean by Wrong?
BTW...Mine runs like crap with out the intake tube
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Since i got my welder here is what I made and broke...
I have my Waggy 44 and that starts next month with 64" chevy springs for max articulation...
Any way here it is please chime in.
Mile Marker hub
Sliders
Front Bumper
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What does you oil smell/look like
Compression test?
Get the proper air intake setup back on there also. These engine need the proper intake/back pressure...that is where i would start
Sounds like a bad plug or water in the fuel to me though
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Yeah, get rid rid of the leafs and go links.(just my opinion)
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You have to be careful flipping an axle. If you screw the caster angle you wont be able to drive it(at least not at any speed). It is easier to find a drive side drop and go from there. also what you use your rig for will dictate what axle and setup to use ie. links, springs, linkswith coil over or coils and shocks. You really need to figure out what you want for an end result then plan, plan and plan some more. I have decided to do links, still undecided on coilovers or coils and shocks. I am picking my axle up in two days so look around here for that to start within the next month or so. Also, take into consideration your knowledge of doing this kind of work. Do you have tools/money/know how/ and a place to do this?
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Either way its an awesome deal. Im picking up a set of D44's from a waggy for 400$ on tuesday.
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Body lift will not effect anything except a higher center of gravity, easier to roll over(I haven't).
Suspension lift- Great for articulation. I towed a nother pathfinder 200+ miles on a dolly with no problem.
M/T's yeah they will kill you MPG.
Don't switch to carb, TBI is awesome. If you want more HP get a VG33.
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Ok... I am going to go with 2" body and suspension lifts... Still going to put UCA's in for reliability and movement range... 32" tyres should still fit...
Good choice, I had some issues with CV boots on my 3", I just lowered the torsion bars a little and replaced the boot with neo boots.
I am looking into doing a 6" overall suspension lift for my 1994 XE. 3" body and 3" lift. what difficulties beyond just installing the shocks/UCA's/Springs/Torsion bars are there?
Rear coils are easy, loosen up the links a little on the axle. Remove shocks before jacking car up, the jack it up and replace the coils. The front is almost as easy, I jacked the rig up to about where it was gonna sit the pulled wheels and upper UCA's off. Replaced UCA's and Ball joints, then replace torsion bars and shocks.
So if i were to do say a 1" BL i wouldn't have to modify any brackets, lines etc? Because right now i only want to do 1" BL so i can later do a 2-3" suspension lift
You might as well do a two inch. The only things that will need to be moved for any body lift is bumpers.
88 Pathy Three Link
in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Posted
IFS Crap