ejin4499
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Posts posted by ejin4499
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should have asked google first.
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/components/1995-nissan-pathfinder_alternator-fitting-230-1513.html
thanks
Mods feel free to delete
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Picture of the bolt that holds our alternator on to the bracket? Lost mine somewhere on the highway (that was fun) and can't remember if it was two short bolts or one long one. I have a bucket of spare bolts from my long gone parts truck and I'm sure I could make something work but I would prefer to have the "right" one.
checked the alternator diagram on el-19 but it wasn't clear to me what I needed.
Thanks
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Id bet you dollars to dounuts that if you checked your sensors and they work properly you have a vacuum leak somewhere on that engine. Thats what is causeing the idle to jump like someone tapping on the gas. If you have a big enough leak to cause your idle to jump your egr is the smaller of your problems. I would find the leak before I sent it in to the mechanic.
Also did you by chance have your wiring harness completely disconected at any time in the past. I think the connector for the IAAC valve fits the vacuum solenoid you may have gotten them swapped.
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You might look into adding some denatured alcohol to your gas as well. It lowers your combustion temps. I have heard abouta qt to 10 gallons does the trick. YMMV
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How stable is your idle? I had similar numbers on my pathfinder when I replaced my engine. Look for a vacuum leak. Check the hose on the back of the head get crazy with a can of brake cleaner till you find it. The smog shop had me chasing EGR problems for a month ended up i had a couple bad gaskets and a few cracked hoses under the upper intake.
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As cool as the vq40 is, the DBW system sucked, especially with a manual. Always felt like the computer was more in control than I was. There was a different map for low range than high, delayed throttle response. I think you would also have to tune out all of the traction control nannies and ALBS.
Other than the coolness of keeping things all Nissan, you'd probably be dollars for doughnuts ahead with a SBC swap. Not to mention timing chain issues on the vq...
To clarify I want to take this project on in order to
1 have a totaly bitching project that would take me at least a year to complete.
2 have a 250 - 300 hp engine in an wd21 also bitchin.
3 keep it smoggable in the peoples republic of California.
As far as the DBW system I have seen a bunch of 240 sites that talk about removing DBW and putting in a throttle cable, any thoughts on that ?
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I doubt it would be worth the effort unless you got a donor truck for next to nothing.
Not saying I was going to spend a crap ton of money on this but worth is in the wallet of the purchaser.
No way to adapt an old VG30 ECU to a VQ, they just can't do anything with it.Thought about Megasquirt?
Can't use a megasquirt here in Cali. My plan was to get a donor truck and move everything from the old one to the new one engine sensors accesories all the extra crap the new ecu needs and all. Basicaly I want to keep the old body and look with the new toys under the hood.
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So far about the only way to do this project seems to be to either get a donor truck and move every electronic piece motor and trans or get someone to reprogram the ecu so it doesn't need all the other electronics and move the engine and trans. Sounds like it would be incredibly difficult/expensive without a donor truck sitting right there. Still dieing to try this though.
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I've seen a lot of chatter about swapping a vq35 into a z car but I haven't found any good write ups on it. I was wondering if anyone while cruising the net happend to run across a good write up of how they are doing that swap. I was hoping I might adapt that to the wd21.
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Whats with the visor? Is it an asthetics thing or is there a purpose for it?
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Something isn't adding up. We need more information. Pull your codes and post back. That might give us the info that makes this all work.
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I'd buy a kit ready made for the pathfinder. That would rock!!!
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got my thorleys from them. They made a noticeable diff. Smoother excel better top end. You can feel your engine breath better. Kinda like the diff between breathing through a straw vs normal. no cams yet though I'm thinking about the ones from peaco. Half the price of the JWT s1 or s2
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it is possible to get the knock sensor off without pulling the whole manifold. You need a small short ratcheting end wrench. I think its either 12mm or 10 mm not sure on that. There is just enough clearance to get the bolt out of the block and pull the sensor and the bolt out if you have small hands.
Good luck.
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Ok I think I'm narrowing it down a little. with the leak test I can rule out a head gasket, valve, worn rings or cracked block. I had a bad seal between my egr and intake manifold thats fixed now. I've blocked off the AIAC vavle. that leaves a few of the hoses under the manifold, the upper and lower manifolds, my idle control vavle my throttle plate houseing, the intake tube after the maf and carbon canister with all its hoses. Is there anything else that I missed as far as possible vacuum leak sites?
By the time I'm done hunting this down there wont be anything left under the hood.
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Any thoughts on why you were able to drive the M30 down the street no problem but when you did the swap you now have a problem with an injector circuit? What happened to the ecu in between times?
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I removed the EGR and even without plugging the egr pipe connection the truck had way more power. I'm thinking I may have had a leak somewhere in that system. I had tested the EGR and bpt valve according to the fsm but ........
Waiting for the bolt to arrive to plug up the headers then I can give it a real test.
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ok mine was a problem with a valve under the intake plenum called the idle control valve its been a couple of years so i cant quite remember but i found a fix that used intake cleaner sprayed into a vac hose until the engine stalled then i let it sit for a few min and restarted it but still had the prob so i tried it again and in 2 years its been perfect ever since i cant find the write up but will look at what hose i used on my pathy also it can be removed and replaced but u need to remove the upper intake plenum so thats why i cheeped out on a can of intake cleaner and like i said its been 2 years and perfect
I did unplug that harness to turn all that stuff off and see what happened but other than slow down to 500 rpm the loping stayed the same. I will probably tear the upper intake off and check/clean all the valves and hoses again. This will give me a chance to pull the valve cover and inspect the driver side lifters and cam.
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So I did the leak-down test today and every cylinder was at about 10% pressure loss at about 90 psi. According to the gague that was pretty good.
All my spark plugs looked great no deposits and a little tan in color. (just realized I should have checked the gap while I had them out)
I rechecked all my hoses including the one on the fuel regulator nothing cracked or loose there.
I replaced the oil and the lope got a little better.
Sprayed some carb cleaner around looking for vacuum leaks no joy there.
I did however notice, after I stoped swearing at it, that there is a faint lifter tick on the driver side head. If one of my lifters wasn't pumping up all the way it wouldn't open that valve all the way, but wouldn't that spark plug be fouled and black if it wasn't able to push the exhaust out or bring in enough air?
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So what are you using to compress the liquid and create flow?
I was thinking of a pump with a one way valve as a backstop. The problem with this is it would lead to an energy production rate like a sine wave when I wan't something nice and smooth.
My other thought was (for the proto-type) using the air conditioning pump that is already rated for use with r134 and I think would have the power to keep the pressure in the system constant. Need to do a little research on how much pressure is maintainted in those systems. I need to do a little math to figure out if I would recover enough energy from the exhaust to cover the cost of running the ac pump like that. It's just an idea I had while in the shower.
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Turbines are fast, but I can't imagine them developing the kind of torque to run a compressor or power steering. Seems like minor electrical generation/running the dome light would be about it.
But I'd love to see what you come up with.
I must missunderstand you because turbines are what generates all the electricty in the US. Wether its coal nuke or oil it all heats up water and turns a turbine. The Hoover damn uses all that water pressure to turn turbines. In the OP the company that makes that particular turbine is for the purposes of energy generation from waste heat from deisel generators or other industrial processes.
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This thread reminds me of the brown gas guys, and their quest for better fuel mileage running the additional hydrogen element....
The browns gas guys aren't entirly incorrect. The hydrogen oxygen mix does make the combuston in the chamber faster and more energetic. To get anything from it though you need to tune your managment system to be able to account for it, but I doubt that that extra efficiency overcomes the energy loss from the engine and the alternator. If your going to makes browns gas on the vehicle you need to get the initial energy from somewhere other than the turning of the motor. The only difference is where I propose to get the energy to split the water from. They are choosing to get it from the alternator. I am electing to try and get it from the waste heat running out of the tail pipe (after the cat would be the hotest) and from the radiator. If I can get my hands on a reasonbly priced turbine I can start testing.
Even without the browns gas just running the extra power to the battery and switching to an e-fan should save you somthing in mileage. You could go really nuts and try to run your ac and power steering off of it too. Though I doubt a little turbine like I posted about would make enough power to run the electric motors that would be required for that.
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I don't think you will hit the pressure or flow #'s...start reading up on thermodynamics and back out the theoretical efficiencies and if its worth the time or $
The required minimum to make that particular steam turbine turn a generator is 25 PSI. Assuming I wanted 50 psi I would need to get the water 280 F. Thats assuming I was using water I could use a refrigerant that would make better pressure under lower temps. But as you said I probably need to read up on thermodynamics. The manufacturer has some tables on the site linked for required speeds psi and cfm. Its all using compressed air as the motive force so I'm sure steam or refridgerant would be different. looking at those numbers and the heat requirement I think we should be able to make a decent amount of juice espcially considering that this thing is only the size of your hand.
60 psi
25 cfm
6,880 rpm
32.4 VDC 37.5 A
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So I was noodling around the net and ran across an idea of recovering heat from the exhaust using the rankine cycle. I though that was a great idea as then you could reduce the load put on your alternator and by extension your engine and then run more accessories from the battery. My next thought was if we are recoverying truly wasted heat you could then run a hydrogen generator to further improve efficency.
Anyone have any ideas on what it would take to make that work?
So I found someone making a small turbine.
http://www.infinityt...it_Version.html
this one is only about three inches long but they also make one a little larger.
Does anyone know how much pressure the stock cooler for the auto trans is rated for?
My thought was (since I swaped to manual and still have the stock cooler) run copper tubing around the exhaust to heat it then run it through the turbine then use the stock transmission cooler to condense the steam back to liquid again gravity feeds back to the copper tubing. repeat.
anyone have a
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
lol When one place doesn't have an answer always keep looking you never know what you find.