ejin4499
-
Posts
358 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by ejin4499
-
-
A week ago or so I opened up the harness like you mentioned and simply ran another wire from the middle black wire connection in the harness (ground) to a ground point on the frame.
So far it has been much better! It only tried to randomly 'idle up' once.
This was just a temporary 'patch' I tried without destroying anything lol...and I used a thin gauge speaker wire as thats all I had on hand.
I plan to make it a more permanent patch when I have time.
But like I said so far....It's acting tons more normally.....even in the wal mart parking lot!
thanks, chris
Happy to help.
Let me know if you manage to make the problem go away completely. I'm holding off a m30 ecu swap till I get this nailed down for sure.
-
Redding. Or "Death Valley North" as I like to call it. Its actually been sorta mild, its in the 100's a lot, but it hasnt been 110-115 yet.
I hate it when its 90 outside, so anything over that I just stay inside
AAAh that makes more sense. Out there in the California prairie. We need to get together and get a run setup.
-
Spent 10$ on a MAF from a paths pathy..well... put it in, drove it until the CEL came on (only about a mile) checked the codes, and still throwing the same codes..so im guessing this means im looking into even deeper troubles..
I'm thinking you need to pull the passenger seat put your multimeter to the pins on the ECU and see if you can find a discrepency between whats coming out of your sensors and whats going back to the ecu. It doens't sound like a problem with the maf sensor itself to me.
-
I know the hoses for the fuel filter are good, one of the first things I did when I bought it back in April was change it. I will check the injector rail when its not the surface of the sun outside.
geez where in norcal is it that hot recently. I live in Napa hasn't gotten over 90 in a while.
-
Normally if nothing is rotted out these trucks will leak from 2 places. Either under the hood (tighten hose clamps) or the o-ring that seals the sending unit to the tank.
which (thank god) neither are hard to get to or expensive to replace.
-
you sure your not hearing the exhaust leak out of the slip fitting on the passenger side collector? the part that runs under the transmission over to the y pipe.
-
has anyone noticed a gas mileage change with the S1?
-
You've done the basics have you considered putting a vg33 block in ? I made that swap a while back made a pretty significant difference after all the other stuff. I got a long block for about 600 in cali. You should be able to find something around there. Nissannut has a write up on his website that does a pretty good job going over how to do it. Or you could always turbo it.
-
cool thanks...will give it a try soon.
I've since I have been investigating this harness issue and digging into it...moving it around etc etc...its been acting up much less lately....but I know its just temporary.
Good luck. Let me know if you do anything else that helps
-
Drove up to bear river and pulled a pennyweight of gold out.
-
Nice....can you show a photo maybe? I can't wait to get mine resolved...probably the most annoying issue I have ever had to live with...besides the tapping lifters......and a chihuahua mix dog that keeps pissing on
the trash can in the kitchen when no one is looking.
I don't have pics but
1. disconnect harness
2. access back of plug where wires go inside you should see some rubber/silicone plugs sealing the wires in
get a pick and pull it out
3. put a allen key or other suitable tool inside the resulting hole to release the connector pull it out from the plug.
4. solder on new wire however you see fit or better yet if you know where you can get the right size electrical connector replace it altogether with your new ground line.
-
So I've been working on the interior of my blue bomber and have been blown away at how effective (and cheap) simple ammonia and a wet vac is at getting stains and crap out of the upholstery and the carpet.
I was wondering what everyone else uses on the inside and outside of your trucks.
I figure its gotta be everything from whatever scrapes of a tree or rock or some pretty cool products.
-
so I soldered a secondary ground line to my maf connector (till I can get a new connector with good wires) and the problem is about 90% gone. I still have a minor wobble in my idle every couple seconds or so. Just wanted to throw that in there. Made a huge difference for me. Thanks
-
yeah its just doesnt seem 'stock' to me.....just another one of the 'weird' things I have discovered over the years that previous owner(s) have done.
When I did my knock sensor job...I found a bottle cleaner brush (wire brush about the size of a test tube bottle...hence the name...) shoved inside one of the valve cover oil breather lines/pipes.
I was wondering...wtf is this doing in there? with the handle broken off too. Duh. I guess someone was attempting to 'clean out the lines', broke the handle off it...and just left it in there.
-Chris
I think that actualy comes stock. I think IIRC that its supposed to act as a catch for oil droplets from your PCV system. I may be wrong on that though
-
Ugh...so flippin sick and tired of dealing with erratic high and stumbling idle issues that my '90 SE does whenever it feels like it. Replaced everything over the last year or so and still wants to jump up to between 1000 and 2000 rpms when idling and its a rough stumbling idle....eventually (and sometimes not....) dropping back down to normal range and very smooth. Then it can start going wacko anytime it's taken out of gear or sitting at a stop light even with clutch in and in gear. TPS replaced, IAC replaced, all new vacuum lines, new spark plugs, new lifters and intake manifold/plenum gaskets, new fuel injector o-rings, etc etc. Cleaned the MAF (gently) and K&N cone air filter is pristine. Maybe it's a vacuum leak but damned if I can find it.
For the most part it runs great when under load.....but cripes this idle crap is making want to either just shoot it with one of my .12 gauges or just sell it off for whatever I can get for it and move on to another vehicle.
I've had people/mechanics tell me it's a bad neutral switch , and I've had people/mechanics tell me it doesn't have one because it's a manual tranny....
love my truck but dang lol.
Dude I have the exact same problem. Other than the intake filter is yours stock? Does yours go nuts while its in first with your foot off the gas like your rolling through a parking lot? Have you swapped out your o2 sensor? Tried unplugging mine and it didn't do anything different.
I've done the auto to manual swap and swapped in a vg33 block and heads with thorley headers. Maybe we can at least figure out one of our trucks problems.
I've opened up my idle screw on the manifold and that so far has helped a little. Namely when its starts stumbling it doesn't do it as hard.
-
Dunno about California, but in Washington if I remember correctly they're cool with it so long as it doesn't stick way out and there's a place for the turn signals and plate and all. But yeah, I would not want to get hit by that! On the plus side, no more shopping cart dings.
@OP looks great!
BWAHAHAHA and thus begins my quest to build the ultimate shopping cart smasher 
-
calling in a request for the templates too
-
That is good to know. I'm slowly working on putting the MPFI fuel injection from a 94 on my 87. I would have fought problems for a while not knowing about the different O2. Sucks though that I bought a new $130 O2 last year for the 87 and won't be able to use it. Good thing I have the whole 94 to rob parts from.
James
LOL I'm just glad at least one of my posts helped someone
-
i would think it would break the plywood..wouldnt it
3/4 plywood would probably handle it or make a couple runners out of 2x6. I've had to do a few things on the dirt too.
-
FINALY GOT HIM SMOGED!!!!!!
Been trying for 5 months.
o2 = .2
HC = 25ppm @ 15mph and 1ppm @ 25mph
CO = .02% @ a5mph and 0% @ 25mph
NOX = 38 ppm @ 15mph and 4ppm @ 25mph
HURRRAAAAAYYYYYYY BEER oops I mean HURRAAAAAAAAYYYYYYY PATHFINDER!!!!!!
-
just to jump in here. I just got done doing what you are asking about. You can use a 94 95 ecu in a 90-93 pathfinder if you change your o2 sensor. The 94 95 is the 18 mm o2 sensor and will not work on the earlier ecus it will do just what your describing. You can use a Federal on a cali or a cali on a federal truck just make sure the o2 sensor matches. Other than that everything else hooks up and works fine cruise control and all. Or at least it did for me.
-
ok so i have the motor ready to come out..where the hell do i strap the motor to, i cant fine any place to hook the cherry picker too in the back????? help
anywhere you can on the engine block. I actualy built a cradle out of heavy duty strap. HTH
-
i don't have the time or money to pull an engine.I only have about 1500$ to play with.I was more or less looking for a weekend type install, buy supercharger, install it, swap computers, drive.
i have no doubt the vg30E motor can take low boost, this is why i wanted to try it.
If i ever decide to try the swap ill make sure to post my findings.
Reality check
If you don't have the time then dont do the project. You are looking at a huge investment in time or money. There are no shortcuts or kits. The easiest thing to do is to do the swap from a donor vehicle. You do not have a weekend project you have a get it going in a couple days, tune it in for 6 months project.
-
I am a new member and this is my first posting so I apologize in advance if I did/do something wrong, kinda new at this.
My sister has a 89 pathfinder v6 auto, has about 190k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. We pulled the codes in mode 3 of the ECU, it came back to a code 55 (no malfunctions). In Mode 1 (o2 sensor function) the test came back with 5 flashes of green l.e.d. As I have read this should me that the o2 is functioning fine. In Mode 2 (air/fuel mixture) the red l.e.d. didn't come on, as the npora previous post stated this means its more than 5% rich. At this point I am assuming that this is what is causing the check engine light to come on. Oh, tune was just done after light came on, reset light and light continues to come on.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
If its running rich not enough air is getting into the cylinder or to much gas. I would start with replacing your air filter and running some sea foam through your brake vacuum line and take it for a drive. The sea foam helps clean out your intake plenum and the new air filter is less obstructive than the older one that is currently in there.
HTH
Speedy engine install
in General Forums
Posted · Edited by ejin4499
I had my wiring harness all hooked up before I put the engine back in the truck. everything that goes to the top of the engine goes back to a the connector that sits on top of the passenger side valve cover. I also bypassed the metal coolant lines on the bottom of the upper air intake. So removing the upper intake is a lot easier. don't have to mess with clamps that are behind the engine.