ejin4499
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Posts posted by ejin4499
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on the side of my trans I have about 5 plugs.
One towards the back for the speed sensor I assume, one for the 4x4 indicator, one for reverse, one for neutral, and....I think that's it?
I should mention that my speedometer works fine, but I don't have reverse lights or 4x4 indicator. Is this a simple unplugged wire, or something a little more complicated?
there are actually two switches for your 4x4. You just don't have the switches hooked up right. Spend some time with the manual to figure out which switch does what and where it is supposed to hookup. You might need to custom wire a harness to make them all work. did you just reuse the wiring harness that came with your automagic tranns? That harness doesn't have the all the plugs that you need. if you did you can cut the gear selection harness that was on the side of your transmission and wire up the reverse and neutral safety switches to the appropriate switch on the tranny.
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When I removed my auto trans shifter, there were at least two wires connecting to it.
Correct me, but I assume one is for the shift lock, and one is for the reverse lights?
The 1st wire comes up from the front driver's side carpet. I assume this is the shift lock because the shift lock mechanism is right under the fusebox. Am I right?
This 2nd wire comes up from the carpet around the rear of my center console. Would this wire be for the reverse lights?
I need to finally get my reverse lights working. I know the bulbs work, wiring to the lights work, and the P.O. said the transmission lit up the reverse lights fine.
What did I miss doing when swapping from A/T to M/T?
If I'm right, and this wire is for the reverse lights, how the heck do I hook it up?
The backup lights wire to a switch on the side of the shifter. When you put your manual in did you happen to notice them just below where the shifter bolts to the transmission case?
I ended up cobbling a wiring harness together from two that I had previously cut to shreds but I think if you take one out of a truck with a manual trans you can put in in yours with a minimum of work. Double check the manual for all your connections.
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Those are correct but You missed a few.Below the Blue on the carbon canister is one more. It runs under the intake tube to a hard line. If you follow that hard line you will find another small vacuum line that goes from the hard line to the manifold near the EGR.
Next to the firewall is one that goes the fuel pressure regulator sitting right below the back of the manifold.
Check the one going to the brake booster. with the engine just shut off unplug it from the booster side. If you don't hear anything your booster check valve is bad.
Check your PCV valve, remove it an turn it over gently in your hand. It should not click when moving it gently. But It should move freely when shaken. (replace if you have any doubts, its only a 3 dollars)
Here's the big one, there is a 1" hose coming from the side of your intake tube runs to a hard line under the manifold. This hard line splits into two more large vacuum lines attached your two idle control devices. If either of these 3 lines are cracked or spit or only leak when the engine warms up they will give you troubles. Stretch all the other lines in your fingers to check for cracking as well.
To get to those hard to reach places without removing stuff you might use propane with the engine running and see if it changes pitch. I took a weed burner bell off (it just threads on) and used the wand to gas a potential leak. Just make sure to do it in an open area and let the propane dissipate every now and again.
Also a quick way to confirm that there is a vacuum leak somewhere spray a little propane or starter fluid in your intake. If your engine races you have a vacuum leak if it dies there probably is not a leak or it is really small.
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I'm still against changing the geometry of the block, even by 1mm. Boring out the cylinder walls a hair is OK but actually changing the shape of the block, even by 1mm, still sounds like a really bad idea to me, especially when there are other much more effective ways to make more power.
Next time I post a question do me a favor and keep any opinions or facts to yourself. I would rather blow up an engine than have you poison another thread.
In other words BUTT OUT!!
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I learn a lot from the experience of others even if I don't do it myself. From what I know, you should never mill the heads on a VG. Yes, there is the right way and the cheap way to get things done. Please choose the right way, it's much more economical in the long run.
There is no right or wrong only the one with the price you are willing to pay.
Trying to get back on topic
increasing compression can be achieved by milling the heads down a certain amount taking into account the change in timing and clearances. Another method that I have read about is overboring and using pistons from a VH45. Does anyone have any information on this or any other type of pistons that might be used in a vg33 short block. I remember reading someone from this forum did do that and posted a right up but I can't seem to find it.
So far from this conversation I have gathered that you have several ways to increase compression in our engines.
1. Pressurize the air going turbo or super charger.
2. Shorten the cylinder by milling the heads. Which I assume you could also mill the block and get the same result?
3. Change how far the piston pushes with a different shape
4. Has anyone seen a way to change how far the rod pushes the piston? Isn't this called a stroker ???
Found a company that would do a set of custom pistons though they don't post pricing. www.reacetep.com
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Almost no one runs adjustable cam gears on a stock setup. Messing with the cam timing in a factory setup is not recommended. The real reason milling the heads is bad is that the heads will be out of specification and who knows what that will do to the head gasket.
High lift cams cause parasitic drag because the engine has to work harder to push the valves open.
tungsten why is it that you always have such strong opinions on different topics but so little to back it up with?
Don't do it because it will be out of spec? Doing anything to raise compression with or without boost is going to take the truck out of factory spec. Out of spec is a prerequisite of this conversation. Isn't the whole point of having our trucks getting it out of factory spec and into our own specs? As well as help each other out when we take it a little to far? 
:/end rant -
A few points to make here:
1. Milling heads on a VG is a STUPID idea and using a thinner head gasket is even more retarded. Not only is there potential for something to go wrong but you will throw the timing way off and as MY1PATH said, you will have to now use adjustable gears.
Whats wrong with adjustable cam gears. I thought people ran them on stock setups so they could mess with there timing anyway?
2. If you use high lift cams, they will create parasitic drag on the engine and you will actually lose more low end power. The stock 3.0 cams already have a pretty aggressive profile.
So what happens that causes the parasitic drag?
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The 3.3 pistons have really deep reliefs so hopefully you get lucky.
One method is to put a layer of soft clay on one piston (you can leave the other pistons out for now) and install the head and timing belt with really soft springs on the valves so you can feel the valve on the piston instead of the spring resistance. NO SPARK PLUGS. Use your old gasket as it is pre-crushed and you only want to crush you new one once (actual install). After 2 full revolutions, or after you find resistance disassemble and look at the clay on the piston.
where ever the valve pushed on the clay will be depressed. the lowest part of the clay should be .050" thick. if it is thinner than that or you have bare metal showing the valve reliefs needs to be cut deeper.
Clean the parts thoroughly, some clays can be very corrosive (like play dough)
there are other methods, but I like that one. maybe someone else will chime in.
Ahh and here I thought you would have some clever calculator on the internet that would do the math before I tore the engine down.
does anyone know what the clearance between the pistons and the valves is on a stock setup?
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what's to be skeptical about? thinner gaskets and milling down the heads both decrease compressed volume thus increasing Compression ratio. Thinner gaskets like SEC Pro Copper tend to leak around the coolant passages over time. they are great for race engines that see frequent tear downs but for longevity noting beats an oem factory gasket (260k still no leaks). leaving milling as the best option for long term reliability.
removing 1mm from the head will net you a 9.88 compression ratio in a vg30 and 9.85 in a vg33, do not forget to check the valve reliefs to be sure they are still deep enough. Your valve timing will be retarded aprox. 2 degrees from lowering your compression height by 1mm. this will shift your torque band up a little but can be compensated buy using adjustable cam gears.
MPG's... typically if you up CR by 1/2 point for every 10% increase in displacement your MPG will stay the same or possibly improve. Gains will also be had if an vehicle was under powered and lugging.
A vg34 is just over 20% but the CR is up by 2/2.
Mr. 510 has been getting about the same MPG with his VG34 as he did with his vg30.
As always I can count on you to provide an answer that is both thorough and research/question provoking.
If I were going to use the jwt s1 cams that provide .440 inches of lift how would I figure out if the valves would clear my pistons? All assuming a vg33 with stock pistons and bore with a head that was milled 1 mm. -
So I've been doing a little reading and was wondering about some ways to raise the compression in our engines. I've heard of using q45 pistons to get it up to 10:1. I was wondering if the people who have made the vg34 conversion could post any hp gains or gas mileage gains that they might have gotten from the upgrade.
I've also heard of "decking" the heads and using a thinner head gasket but I'm skeptical of the compression gains from that. Anyone have any personal experience with that?
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on a stock ECU controlled injection system, the O2 sensor would compensate by adding more fuel due to it seeing all the extra oxygen in the exhaust gases. you'll end up with a horribly running truck getting single digit MPG's.
And what do you base your opinion on?
More oxygen + more gas = more power until the thing blows up was my line of thinking.
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I think I'll abandon the project. Part of the reason I was looking at it is I can produce almost pure O2 for free using a solar cell I have. I would need way more cells in order to make enough O2 for this to be a worthwhile project but it was a cool mind experiment. If anyone comes up with another way to do this cheap I'm totaly willing to pick it back up.
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200-350 depending...
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html
50% O2 would take some serious tanks for anything other than a moments effect. I'm not a tuner but with these, generally speaking, go turbo or go home...
Seriously, intake, cam, headers, exhaust is about as much as you can do in smog areas and that won't even get you to 200hp. A 3.3L with the same might. I plan to try it someday...
B
Someone check my math on this. If we are flowing approx 280 cfm at 6000 rpm at 21%O2 that means that we are getting about 58.8 cfm of O2. If I displace some of the atmosphere with O2 say 49 cfm O2 that would give me an intake from atmosphere of about 231 cfm 21%O2 = 48 cfm O2. So to double the amount of O2 coming into the air intake I only need to push about 49 cfm pure O2. Am I right on that?
Edit: doing a little more math means that in order to supply this with enough O2 to double the charge I would need about 4 pounds of O2 at STP per minute. So either a reformer or a trailer full of solar panels and tank of water. Dang!!!
Thanks B for the calculator.
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I don't think it matters pre or post MAF because you are talking about a system that runs hundreds of CFM through a 2" opening
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Do you happen to know how much cfm they do flow through that? If I want to be able to make a worthwhile experiment I need to be able to figure out how much O2 would be required to make a difference. I'm thinking I want to try getting up to 25 30 40 and 50% O2 in the intake charge.
If I can get it up to 50% O2 that would be like more than doubling how much air gets into the engine without using any kind of turbo or super and staying smog legal. On the other side if I can only push the stock ecm so hard I would like to know how hard. Then one of these guys who doesn't have to deal with CA smog can try and go further.
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Assuming that the O2 sensor only has the ability to fine tune the fuel mixture what about putting a variable resistor on the mafs to tell the ecu that more air is being pulled in and then feed in the appropriate amount of O2. Thinking a little more about that once you figured out how much resistance to add you could put in just a regular resistor, as long as you had a constant feed of O2 for as long as the truck was running.
For controlling how much O2 was being fed in I was thinking about using the part of the throttle where the cruise control attaches back to a valve that comes after a regulator. Or calibrate the regulator on the O2 tank and mount the variable resistor to the regulator in some elegant and clever way so that as I turn up the O2 it turns up the resistance.
All of this assumes that putting a resistor on the maf will tell it that more air is going into the intake.
Edit: Also doesn't the ecu try and maintain like 12:1 but stoich is 14:1. If so even just a little O2 might help a well maintained engine run a little better?
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I've been toying with an idea of injecting a certain amount of pure O2 into the intake just before the mafs. would this make the engine run like it has a vacuum leak?
Mafs sensor works off the idea that for a certain mass of air there is so much O2 present. right? By messing with the air mixture (CO2 O2 and N2 not air to gas mixture) would that throw the system off or would the O2 sensor see it and start compensating for it?
N/m where I get the O2 at this point.
Thanks
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shop vac (that's on its last legs anyway) to the drain hole, dw40 to thin out the oil and flush the cap to the drain port so the shop vac can suck it out. Flush the dw40 out with cheap gear oil then put the good stuff in. You might also just use compressed air in through the fill port with the shop vac pulling from the drain port to make a wind tunnel effect to move that crap out.
HTH
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I would hope that ANYONE who changes a Tranny would replace or recommend to the customer while they are in there. The cost of the RMS, even if its not leaking YET, is so small compared to the incontinence of getting in there again WHEN it DOES.
P.S. try tightening your covers before you go doing gasket changes, sometimes they are JUST loose.
wasn't aware they made depends for our vehicle.
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Cut it off then drill it out. The insides are mostly ceramic and really brittle. If you mess it up real good grind off the old bung and threads weld a new bung in place. You should be able to do all that from under the truck.
Good luck.
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hey guys i keep having the same problem. anybody that pulls a trailer, what did you end up doing to keep from blowing light fuses. i know i have a good ground and i rewired the trailer through the correct plug. i have a 20 amp fuse and it still blows it. what to do... what to do...
LEDs ?
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hey guys i keep having the same problem. anybody that pulls a trailer, what did you end up doing to keep from blowing light fuses. i know i have a good ground and i rewired the trailer through the correct plug. i have a 20 amp fuse and it still blows it. what to do... what to do...
LEDs ?
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After looking at those pics all I can say is I'm damn glad I live in So Cal
I live in Nor cal but
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except get a set of jwt cams if you have the cash after all the other upgrades.
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are you going to do a dual exhaust or just run a y-pipe? With a body lift you should have lots of room on both sides of the transmission.
How to hook up reverse lights for M/T
in The Garage
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I"m not sure what the proper harness looks like. I made a custom one, but the one you are using is not hooked up to the two switches at the top of your tranny. Check that you can find them. check out page 33 of MT in the service manuals. That should show you the ones I am talking about. On the automatic those are built into the gear selector that mounts to the side of the transmission.