ejin4499
-
Posts
358 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by ejin4499
-
-
what part exactly are you fuzzy on? If you could ask a more specific question we might have a better answer but as far as I know everything you need to know is in that right up other than what should either already be know (how to strip down the engine ) or what would be found in the FSM ( torque specs sizes etc).
The only other relatively complete writeup that I know of (the one I followed) is http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/ its a little older and doesn't use the adapter but requires no parts other than what you would already have.
Personally the next time I go to build a vg33 for a early 90's pathfinder I will be following in MR510's footsteps. The only thing I would do dif is get a vg33 crank stroked and custom pistons the get the CR to 11 or 12 but I'm still doing research on that one.
-
your answers should he in here somewhere.
if Mr. 510 said it then you can bank on it.
-
1
-
-
I didn't have to pull the head out but I did get a long extension and a chuck to go at the end of it.
http://www.osh.com/Brands/DeWalt/DEWALT-3-8%22-Keyless-Impact-Chuck/p/6945935
not these exact ones but you get the idea.
drill -- extension -- chuck -- left hand drill bit.
-
looks like i am using the crank from Mr510 and all of the accessories from my previous Pathfinder 90 (R.I.P.) except for the AC i'll either find one cheap or not have one at all (on budget)
only thing i'm missing asside from the beer and labor it the oil filter stud. which i have to swap?
It is technically possible to swap that but if your using the 510 adapter why would you swap the oil pump thus necessitating the oil filter stud swap?
-
Personaly I chose to go with the VG33 and keep all my stuff from the vg30. Seeing as how you are a california kid you probably want to keep everything from the vg30. I have had the star certified smog techs out here be pretty sharp on what goes where.
-
California we truckers call it the communist state of California. They pass law's that screws up the rest of country. America held hostage by California.
lets not get started on politics. no body wins in that conversation.
-
Is California considered PacNW?? Cause Im down in the bay area. Bout a hour south of the Golden Gate Bridge to help people get a idea lol
LOL us Cali people need a catagory of our own.
I'm in Napa Hour north or SF hour south of Sac
I know Precise is in Santa Rosa
We should setup a ride some time
-
That is the hard way! You pulled your engine apart to put a weaker crank and oil pump in? I would stick with the vg33 crank and oil pump. Grinding down a bracket and a tab is a hell of a lot easier than rebuilding half of your bottom end with weaker parts...
Sorry I assumed you stirpped yours down to the block. I didnt want to put a engine that I hadn't seen running and been able to check in my rig without a rebuild. Just my opinion on that part. Gotta say swapping the crank and timing gears was one of the less compicated/labor intesive parts. Kinda superfluous at this point because I would have totaly kept it if that adapter had been available like 5 months earlier. I think I even posted that in Mr 510 thread.
To me it was worth it to me to keep everything bolt on so that at any point I can go to a store and buy what ever part I need for a 95 pathfinder where ever I'm at. Did you put up a build thread I would love to go back and read what you did different than I did.
Do you happen to know what the strength diff between the vg30 and vg33 cranks and the oil pumps ?
-
I did it the right way. What would you change to make it easier? Not doing any of those steps is the lazy way. You obviously will want to tear the donor down for new timing components, all new seals and gaskets all around. Paint the covers and block, etc,
I am not Mr. 510 or even that great of a mech but here is a rough list of what I did.
striped it down to the short block replaced all seals and gaskets rings etc. used the crank from a vg30 (not required with the adapter) and bolted all my vg 30 brackets to the vg33 block. vg30 oil pump removed block off plate for oil fileter housing and the ball bearing and spring that I can't remember the name for. Used the vg33 heads with vg30 cams. vg30 headers from doug thorley (way better than pacesetters) also had to expand the holes for the lager studs. used the valve cover on the passenger side from vg33 and I think I used the valve cover from the vg30 on the drivers side would have to go look. Injectors from the vg33 with a modified harness. I think I used the lower intake from the vg33 with the upper intake from the vg30.
I didn't have to grind anything or make any new brackets. Everything just bolted in place. I mostly followed nissannuts website.
If anyone wants pics let me know I can get pics of what is there installed but no build pics sorry.
-
I try to be helpful...
Not so much of a project, more like getting it to brake properly and replacing the axle seals.
I should install the rock sliders, Xterra roof rack, a pillar gauge pod, power inverter and winch though. You sure you got enough beer?
Any time you are in the area/want to come by. It's always nice to meet and greet!
B
ok so it may be more like a case of beer and a pizza. Let me know when you want to get rolling on that stuff.
-
Make sure to tape off the waterpump bearing seals too. U dont want little bits of aluminum shavings working their way in there.
Also pay close attention to the timing cover plates. You have to mix and match here and there to make it all work and fit together. Double check if im right as this is from memory but I think its vg33 rear plate, vg33 front bottom plate, vg30 front top plate and you will want to cut the crank timing stub on the lower cover. It sticks out too far on the vg33e front lower timing cover plate and needs to be shortened to match the vg30 crank pulley offset. Otherwise you will have a hard time setting your ignition timing properly.
If anything else comes to memory, ill post it up!
Also you will have to grind off the lower right corner of the upper power steering pump mounting bracket (at the upper bolt hole end). This is so you can relocate it to its new home about 2" over.(gotta see in pictures, I don't know how else to describe it)
You will also want to use a valve cover from each engine to make the vacuum line situation easy. Use the valve cover from the 3.3 on the passenger side to get the extended filler hole and use the 3.0 valve cover on the drivers side, so your vacuum lines will fit properly. I also shaved off the unnecessary tabs from the 3.3 valve cover since they aren't used on the 3.0 engine bay but that was merely cosmetic and not required.
I'll take some pictures of my ol lady's truck when she's home from work and show you what I mean, I'm sure its hard to know exactly what I mean from description alone.
The vg33 swap I did on my truck is all custom with r50 accessories and relocated everything so taking pictures of that one won't help ya.
Oh also, I had to slightly enlarge the factory vg30 exhaust manifold stud holes with a step drill to get the new 10mm studs to fit through. I've heard some people haven't had to do this but on kats truck I did have to (run headers on my vg33 swap and I also had to enlarge the stud holes, OBX brand.
Almost looked like the factory manifold holes weren't drilled properly though (factory defect) so you may not have that issue.
good googly moogly you did it the hardway
-
just to add my 2 cents. The injectors flow the same rate and you can use either set if you make a custom harnes. They are essentialy the same just a different conection shape.
-
3-4 hours? That's just about right.... Come to Shasta county, we wheel all the time here. Winter is coming though so most of the mountains are off limits without chains and shovels. We have a big get together coming up on Jan 1st. We head for the snow and see who can get the "stuckest"....
I'm down for that is there a post I need to check up on or a list I need to get added to?
I thought you were gonna say you'd bought a Jeep or something.
I haven't done anything I'd call wheeling either... just the odd trip through the yard and some fun in the snow. Soon... ish... hopefully.
Whats a jeep ?
I haven't been wheeling for years myself and have never taken either of our Pathfinders off road yet, so don't feel bad.
Oh, I know where you are, just over the hill from me...
So, locally I can think of a few places:
Hollister. http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=1179
Carnegie. http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=1172
Cow Mountain. http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/ukiah/cowmtn.html
Mendocino National Forest. http://www.fs.usda.gov/main/mendocino/maps-pubs
I'll be working on my WD21 in a week or two and depending on how fast it goes...
B
B I knew you would know a good couple spots to go around here.
Hit me up when you get started on your project and I'll bring the beer and flashlight holders.
-
-
I found that loosening your motor mounts and then lowering the back end of the trasmission a little gave me enough room to get my hand up there with out a bunch of extensions. just be sure you don't put your fan through your radiator. Though I have read that most people just use a bunch of extensions and swivel. YMMV
-
I have never wheeled anything ever.
There I said it. I've been lurking on this site for 2+ years and I have never wheeled my pathfinder or any other vehicle. I was wondering where is a good place to go within 3-4 hours of napa CA. I'm about an hour south of Sacramento and an hour north from San Fransisco on the 80.
Thanks guys
-
If you remove the evap canister
1 .You need to find a way to vent the vapor so you don't blow a weld or a hose. Easy answer put a filter on the end of the line coming from the tank or on the vent line under the truck by the tank. Just make sure water wont get back inside it.
2. Now you have a vacuum leak that needs to get pluged. Screw in the hose with a clamp on it is my fav for that sort of thing.
-
How many people do you know have a receiver up front?
Other than being fugly, I could see it limiting vision and blocking airflow to the radiator.
B
Hey just trying to think outside the box.
Besides a receiver up front could be incredibly useful and I have see some people who SASed who put one in front.http://nissannut.com/projects/sas/
As far as aerodynamics its like a really really blunt edge vs a brick.
But your probably right about the radiator.
-
what would be wrong with putting the tire carrier out front?
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/unhimosptica.html
-
I had a 97 and a 95. Drove the 97 while I swapped another vg33 into the 95. I used the cams that were in the vg30 from the 95. I don't notice much of a difference between the 97 and the post swap 95. Huge diff between the vg30 to vg33. It feels like the 95 has a little bit better top end but that might be the CIA and headers that are on it.
-
I didn't notice much difference when I did my vg33 swap vs my 97 pathfinder stock. I used everything from the vg33 cept the crank cams and upper intake manifold.
-
I've been working on the same problem. I recently went from 235's to 31's. I haven't gotten the problem totally fixed but now the issue is down to a minor vibration rather than shake the fillings out of your teeth.
Balanced tires
Replaced compression rod bushings
repacked and reinstalled wheel-bearings after inspecting for pitting.
I plan on replacing the rest of the bushings up front as well as the ball joints and tie rod ends.
If you haven't replaced any of that stuff you might consider it just due to the age if not the mileage.
-
i just found a really big bolt squared off the end of it on a grinder till it fit and viola a nice new adapter for a buck.
-
On a related note. Does any one know of after-market remotes that would work with our security system? Is there a standard to look for on the back of the box or does the packaging have to list 90-95 pathfinder on it?
Longer drive shaft
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
How far can we lift a wd21 before we need a different shaft ? Just curious.