ejin4499
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Posts posted by ejin4499
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Different Spline Count. R50 = 33 spline, WD21= 31 spline. Best option is likely to press the backing plates off and use the R-50 axles like in NissanNut's article.
No I mean take the whole rear axle housing and all. Disconnect the control arms and move the whole thing over out of a pathfinder that has the options you want.
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Ok, official word is that any factory steel fuel lines cannot be replaced with rubber they have to be steel. So that is the end of that. Off to pick a part. hope the lines come out easy.. -20c the penetrating sprays comes out more like a gel
He couldn't really give me a proper means to fasten the lines down but this guy would fail zip ties I am pretty sure. Best I could do is use the existing hold downs (which doesn't look to possible).I must be boring everyone already, but more to come. Maybe I can STILL make the deadline....
YOU CAN DOO EEEEET!!!
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I am broke so I will not be able to afford the expense on 4 new tie rod ends and 2 centers, nor do I have enough to get the bushings and replace the ball joints at 60$ a pop for both sides. With that said I wonder if there are any tips that I can recondition them in some manner at least to not fail or be a further failing point with the inspection? Can I pull up the boots and get grease in there. I do not have a grease gun (I should) as up to now I have only needed it on surface applications not to force grease into a ball joint.. I need one of these.
Sorry for rambling. Its coming along.
Check that the joints and tie rod ends are tight and don't have any slop in them. If they have any slop in them the shop probably wont be able to align it. Greasing on a regular basis is a must if they have zerk fittings. If they don't have the fittings then putting grease under the boot wont help any cause the grease wont get to the bearing surface.
Good luck in that cold weather.
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any reason making a paper rubbing at a junkyard wouldn't be right? bring a roll of butcher paper tape to side of truck rub with crayon?
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isn't the axle basically the same between the car50s and the wd21's. couldn't you just swap a whole axle out of a wd21 into your r50?
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I found a set in a yard. I had to use the shorter studs that came with it until I got tired of them always backing out and binding on the hub when I needed to remove it. Then I just went to hardware store and replaced with allen bolts. Much easier.
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How do you get good access to the back of the engine block without removing it? Do I remove the tranny and bell housing or something?
long skinny brush and a mirror on a stick. easy cheap
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De-greaser in a spray bottle and a brush. My fave is purple power. Put it in a squirt bottle spray and area scrub it repeat. Don't get it on your paint it will oxidize it. Your valve cover may be leaking on the back of the head and spilling down all over everything else. Also when you do your cv axles just rebuild your front suspension while your there. You have to take almost everything off anyway might as well do new bushings bearings ball joints and tie rods. This would pretty much fix that front end shimmy that I think you were talking about in another post. Good luck.
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what RPM are you trying to keep the engine at when you cruze?
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^ yeah, I remember that...
I'm 1-2 weeks away from pulling my ARB winch bull bumper guard monster to put the winch in it. I'm long over due to take some measurements when I do, and I'll CAD them up and post files/prints.
It won't be a rip off copy of the manufacturer, more like basic mounting/fitment dimensions that will be a big help, especially if you build from the mounts on up (due to the different lift/bumper configurations).
I still have to rig a chain hoist point in the garage ceiling... I'll chime back in one week from now.
B
Hit me up when you do that. I'd love to get a closer look at how that whole thing goes together.
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I've looked and it is a little tight but there is some room with stock wheels. I was thinking even something in an tetris shape may work.
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Could something be welded to the knuckle ? Like say a piece of another knuckle to move the attachment point a little further in (effectively .5 inches) so now you have space to clear the wheel?
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The main reason I was looking for something to correct the tie rod angle is to get rid of bump steer. If one could space up the tie rod to level it out wouldn't that help with bump steer? If it happens to extend the life of the center link thats a bonus.
The other thing I was looking for was a TRE with a really long stud.
|____ Stock truck
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___ Lifted truck with tierod at an angle
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|------ Lifted truck with somthing to raise where the tierod attaches to the spindle
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Heres a pic to the basic concept.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/techarticles/sstp_1008_nissan_240sx_project/photo_05.html
Its for lowering Nissan 240 but the concept is the same just reversed.
I think that is called a heim joint and then its just a milled piece that seats into the taper with an adjuster on it. Looks relatively simple the ones pictured I think are designed with drifting in mind. Gotta be strong to put up with that.
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For purposes of correcting tie rod angle on a lifted truck for light duty off roading. NOT wheeling just getting off the beaten path a little bit.
Any thoughts?
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couldn't you just add some food dye to your brake fluid and get the same effect?
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Also you might need to extend the throw on your brake master cylinder. The master cylinder attaches to your brake pedal on the back up by the firewall. Loosen the nut and then turn the bar so it backs out a little bit. Just like you would adjust your clutch master cylinder.
HTH
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Could some of your rubber lines be old and bulging ? Did you change the rubber line between the rear axle and the hardline? You might try bypassing the abs module just to simplify the troubleshooting process. Also when you bled the brakes did you just bleed them or did you replace ALL the fluid in system?
HTH
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I would love to see some kits for swapping engines and an aftermarket (megasquirt) drop in kit would be awesome.
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Your neutral safety switch on your tranny next to your stick shift may also be going out. Had a similar issue last month.
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The bare wire is the shielding jacket that wraps around the other three. Pull the pvc jacket back another couple inches to confirm.
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honestly I'd look for a u pull it yard near by with a better price 100 bucks for 20 year old wiring seem steep to me.
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Don't sell your friend just cause someone said the project might be difficult. Sell it cause your done and you want to move on to something else.
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Some engine swap kits might be nice.
Swap to a VQ or Nissan Diesel in a kit. 
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ahardb0dy, ejin, thanks! I've been checking local wrecking yards for donors. Oh yeah, who's Rob and when you say order it, you saying this portion of the harness can still be purchased new, or am I not understanding?
For giggles, while looking for the parts I need for this VG30E, I been looking at VG33E, there are several available, not too expensive. Swap is looking better................ But I will be getting this tired O'l VG30E back up and running first. These pathfinders are heavy, tired of pushing it when I move it.
Thanks,
TXPower
My vote is for the swap. I Love mine. You'll still need the wiring harness either way. Keep your existing injectors then you don't have to splice anything.
MrEviLDeD's Count Down to Inspection (Cheeky Grin)
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
How much did you have to spend to get the glass replaced!?!?!?! Here in Cali you can get it done for $150 new glass installed. I'll never complain out loud about prices here again!