Specv1973

Here's what you don't see on those crappy tubes.....plugged up lines.

I just ordered some Moog springs from Rockauto. I'm just trying to get some more firmness in the rear with less bounce. (I think that could be used in a rap song somewhere, lol)

x2 on the best one mechanically. Options don't do you any good on the side of the road. Plus the more options you have on these old trucks, the higher probability of things to break or wear out. The strengths of these pathy's are not defined by their options list IMO.

Here's mine. Up front in front of everything is optimum airflow and cooling. I run between 100F and 150F depending on conditions. Usually 130F most of the time. Mine is a B&M stacked plate with a B&M Gauge.

I want these. They have the same 6-139 bolt pattern. There 31's but their 13.50 wide, but I think that offset might compensate so they don't rub. What do you guys think?

Just realized NismoJunky ain't even a newb man.....is that worse? haha....BTW, I've only received nothing but great help from everyone including Precise1, but moderator or not, we all have to be reminded from time to time that were all human and just want to get along with one another brother. And this club is extremely helpful in maintaining and modifying our rides, and we all should try and maintain coolness and brotherhood.(damn, my soapbox just broke, oh well)

I'm gonna throw my 2 cents in here as well because I understand the argument from both the person trying to get the help in here and from the people who have the knowledge and are sick of seeing and answering the same questions over and over again. It doesn't hurt anyone to mention trying the search function, as long as you keep that comment short and sweet, even if you want to be a smart-ass replying because your sick of saying the same thing over and over. I feel you guys, this ain't my first forum club in my 37 years. But the fact of the matter remains, hundreds more newbs are gonna come through here just like me, and some of us are better at "SEARCH" searching than others. And each and everyone of us are the same, WE NEED HELP brother, now, not attitude. If you wanna offer it up but also wanna vent your frustration on answering that question for the millionth time, find a way to separate the two, so we can all help each other out and EVERYONE will want to hang around. And who knows, that newb might show you something down the road that you never thought of, or you might just end up making a friend you can wheel with locally or whatever, etc.etc.etc. Plus you know it's the right thing to do bro....(even if you cringe while typing, lol)(Don't forget when you were a newb, that might help) (Feel free to flame me now boys, I can take it, I know it's coming )

I brought this up as well recently. EVERYONE should be checking behind those brackets for pitting and clogs as well as entry points for water. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28215&st=0&p=533335entry533335

Uhhhhh......His truck is a 92' and yours is a 89' LittleReD89 and mine is a 95'......so there MAY be differences grand wizard. But there are 2 plugs that have that connector on the back of my battery area. One is DEFINITELY the oil pressure sender (wires are yellow/blue stripe and black/white stripe) and the other plug is DEFINITELY for my factory Nissan adjustable shocks(white/black stripe, white/red stripe, black solid). What color are the wires on the back of the plug and are there 2 or 3 wires on it? I will post more pictures or a video if you need absolute proof. (FYI....my shocks have 2 plugs as well up front anyways, didn't check the backs, one at the shock and one about a foot away coming from the main wiring harness, in the engine bay.

I figured as much being from Jersey and all....lol.

I read somewhere fuel injectors are a common failure on pathys. Probably have to figure out which injector is giving you the trouble. Probably need a volt/ohm meter or something like that I imagine to test continuity, also to test the actual plug on the harness as well. Just guessing though.....I'm no expert.

Guess i'm ordering some parts......mise well do all 4 ball joints.....since the seals are all rotted and leaking anyway.......Rockauto has some.......any brands I should stay away from? Just sent Alkorahil an email for a quote for all 4. Probably won't know till Monday though I'm guessing.....oh well, I can wait I guess.

That is the plug from the wiring harness to the Nissan factory adjustable shocks as stated previously. Guaranteed. Just checked mine.

Yeah, figured that. Just wondering if this happened to anyone else to see what they did.

Yeah with a air compressor and air was coming out of the first hole and none coming out the end of the pipe near the firewall where they all meet up. The side to the left of this picture was worse (completely pitted through both sides of the tube) and was so clogged up I thought I could just cut it out and extend a piece of rubber hose from the front diff. That's where I started, but then I heard air coming out of that bracket you see, slid back the tube on that side and same shi#. Started checking all of them at that point and several were pitted or pitted through with the clogs so caked up right there inside the pits if completely through. So long story short....they suck and are getting bypassed with rubber to the engine bay near the same point as the old system exited.

Can I just leave it? What's the worst that could happen? Think it will hold? I rarely go off road, and even then it's just sugar sand and or mud.

Kind of hard to see, but just to the right of the mount is the pitting, which has allowed the line to clog. I pulled the line out about an inch to the right of the mount, to show you what is hidden.

And to add to my old ass facts again, the oil filter test done on my precious Fram filters was done in 1987. So again, I just have always assumed (gotta love that word) that the Frams stayed good quality. But from just doing some small researching around the web tonight, it does appear they do indeed now make an inferior product and have for awhile now, which is dissapointing. So I admit my information is outdated I guess. There, I admitted it. Happy? lol.........

I have to admit that I omitted some key info on my comment previously, sorry to stir up the hornets nest in here. Obviously this topic is a highly debated one and hits a nerve with some. All I can say is if I pissed you off, sorry, get a life brother and get over it. It's motor oil....who really gives a S@%&. Secondly and most importantly, this test was done 15 years ago and alot has changed since then obviously, maybe for the worse with Fram I guess. I've always tried to buy there products anyways based on that testing back then, and personally have never had a failure with an engine or their products. Synthectics were still realitively new to the mainstream consumer oil market back then as well (even though it had been around well before that time), and there was still some confusion over the pros and cons of synthetics. I don't think i'm an Idiot for reading Consumer Reports (thanks for that comment though). I do however read as much as I can on alot of topics in life, and do manage to form my own opinions much like all of you have done, based on more sources than just one. But when it's all said and done, I guess maybe I haven't read enough material or have seen enough real world testing on motor oil to convince me either way which one of the many choices we have is truly the best. Everyone here has an opinion and that's what makes forums like this so great, so you can come to your own comclusion based on the information given and information you have collected up to that point as well. Here is that article, again written 15 years ago, so take it or leave it, who cares: http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-info/articles/51-consumer-reportstruth-motor-oils-july-1996.html

Point taken brother......I'm getting one of those clamps this weekend. Checking it under pressure would require my skateboard and my wife driving I think. I also have owned a Hayabusa and Gixer 750, so I'm being selfish I guess and should know better. Although I did the common "don't ride in the slick/middle of the lane" like your fellow riders or class teaches you and never had that problem. Although at lights, looking down, I would see what your talking about, especially coolant down here in hot ass Florida.

5W30 and whatevers on sale for my WD21. I like the test Consumer Reports did on all the oils years ago. They pretty much said don't change it until about 5000 miles or your wasting your money, synthetic and synthetic blends are a waste of money for the everyday driver, use what your owners manual tells you too or your gonna waste fuel with thicker oil with no benefit whatsoever, use Fram oil filters if you want the best filtering, and try to stay with the same brand of oil if you can for the life of the engine. Their testing was pretty unique too if you get a chance to read it. The company is pretty kick ass and unbiased and not to be confused with Consumers Union which is a ripoff of them and total BS.

Check all your vacuum lines......especially the one behind the intake manifold going down closest to the firewall. There is a diagram under the hood if you still have yours on which ones to check. You dont want any split ends or cracks. Vacuum leaks can definately cause these problems as I had similar issues and it's an easy fix.

Yes Tungsten, I will. Sheesh....lol. I thought it was pretty self explanatory.

Those metal vent lines for the front and rear diffs and the auto trannys are a problem. I noticed after moving some around from their mounts, that some of them had pitted from the outside in and had clooged the vents completely and also were letting water into my diffs. The pits were at just about every mounting clip behind the rubber isolators, so they are impossible to see unless you slide them a bit to check. I'm in the process of running new rubber hoses from all three componets up to the engine compartment, and putting on small see thru fuel filters on the ends to keep dirt and water out when wheeling and to be able to see any contamination. A good height would be around the same height as your intake, to keep water out and to know how deep you can run in water. I did this on a Tacoma I had and it worked great.

2 1/2 quarts of oil you had to add? That's alot fella.....Are you sure your rear main seal didn't blow out or cam seals or something. You need to be looking everwher, especially underneath for oil. When was your last oil change and and do you check the level often like once a week or so? A low oil pressure light can also be a faulty sending unit, bad connection to the sender, or a sign of an oil pump going bad. Oil pressure lights are not usually good indicators of fluid level, only pressure, which may not make any sense, but a mechanic or someone with more knowledge can explain better. Sounds like a major seal leak is going on with adding that much oil and an idiot light coming on as well. The stalling is puzzling though even if you had a blown gasket unless it overheated at the same time. No temperature issues?