Specv1973

Great write up! Could have used this a few weeks ago being a newb and all and doing this myself for the first time. But it looks like I did it all pretty much right. I also had help from other members on here. Thanks guys...

Funny stuff.

That damn electronic Nat gets me every time....I keep putting my thumb on it to kill it and then realize I've been fooled again....damn it.

Are you tree huggin Precise1? J/K....I know, I hate half ass stuff too. The seep would take a week to make one drip of a raindrop, know what i mean. Actually the last post hit the nail on the head. The seep is coming from that hose and not the T fitting anymore. It is the area around the clamp he's talking about. So what does a fuel clamp look like? Anyone got a pic or does the last poster have one?

Tranny cooler and gauge is in. Not too bad. Went with a B&M plate unit from Summit. Mounted it behind the front grill with a little modding and got the gauge from B&M too. The Tee fitting for the gauge was/is a pain though. Still trying to get it to not seep. The crush fittings were too tight to go over the return line so I had to cut them. Didn't think they did all the sealing, umm yeah, they do. lol. So the thread tape helped on the caps but all I had left now was JB Weld, so you guessed it. The T fitting for the gauge now has a special camouflage coating now for stealth. hehe...still seeps a little.....oh well. The stock cooler in the old radiator (changed that too for another reason) is a joke. OMG, I cut open the radiator to check it out....LMFAO....that is supposed to cool my fluid......It's like a coiled up really long straw that sits in hot coolant. WTF Nissan? Newbs like me.....do this mod! It is a must for sure!

Wow. What an amazing difference in lighting with the the new relay and PIAA bulbs. Geez, major lighting difference! And the fog lights too.....sweet!

Thanks Unccpathfinder.....good writeup as well. I followed all the directions and aside from frozen bolts everywhere I wrenched, the new shafts are in thanks to you all helping me out here.

Good job buddy. I did mine with the help of this forum too. I'm doing the headlight and foglight relay upgrades now. Just waiting on my parts to come in off ebay. This forum has really helped me gain confidence in working on my pathy as well. Good Job!

It also cuts the fogs off when the high beams are on. Not sure how it does that though.

It's amazing how things come to you after you read your own writing....I fixed it with my test light like I should have before I confused myself. I'm a dumbass. White is hot and green is ground for the fogs. The purple wire IS tied into the headlight switch. Fogs won't come on without headlight switch on. So white and purple go on the 12V side of switch and green goes on the other side. Duh! Makes sense now....whew!

Hey gurus......I need help with my fogs. I just ordered all new PIAA bulbs for the headlights and fogs as well as new wiring kits with relays etc based on the pinned forum on getting brighter lighting in here. I just ran through the wiring a little bit on my fogs and they already have a relay setup. It's all Bosch lighting,relay,etc. Was that a factory thing? Anyway, I've got a problem. There is a green wire (ground?) and a white wire (hot?) leaving the relay going into the cab and to the factory switch in the console (maybe this is a factory setup, hmmm) and coming into the switch is the green, the white, and a new purple wire. Is that purple wire hot or ground or switched or not, I dunno. Looks like it comes from the steering column area I'm guessing. Tried to follow the wire loom to see where the purple wire comes in to the mix, but I can't see it for sure without taking more stuff apart. Maybe it's tied in to the headlight switch so the fogs can't come on without the headlights first? I'm lost guys, and the switch dosen't tell me where the wires go to either on the pins, and I already hooked it up wrong once and blew the fuse to my passenger headlight. wtf? I've looked at every wiring schemtic I could in the FSM and the Chilton, but no of them show the fogs, only the headlights.......ahhhhhh!

Just a tip for anyone experencing this issue, as I have seen a few references in a few other posts to center console heat. If this has been covered before, just delete this moderators. I have an autotragic, so this maybe a little different for manual trannys. If you roll down your windows or put the air in "fresh air mode" basically depressurizing the cabin, you will really notice the heat coming from the center console if you have the same problem I had, especially around the e-brake hole area. The cause of this heat is pretty simple. There is a rubber boot around the 4wd selector arm under the fancy leather wannabe cover that wears out over time. It should be tight as a drum all the way around the mounting surface and especially the arm itself. If not, the heat from the engine/tranny will pour in to your center console tub and come out around the e-brake area especially with tthe windows down or even cracked open. I had to order one from the dealer, since I couldn't find a good one anywhere else. I think it was like 30 bucks or so, but no more heat now from the center console. I should have taken pics when I did the replacement, but I forgot, sorry. You have to remove the center console is all basically to R&R the boot. Hope this helps someone else...

Thanks B!

haha....thanks man. I have the shafts and all new brakes to put on. I think I'm gonna dive into it tomorrow. Wish me luck....

Hey guys...I'm thinking of doing this myself. Any tips or special tools I might need. Never did this before. I've only done brakes, alt's, starters, tune-ups and stuff like that. Any write-ups on this yet? I have the FSM, i know, but I haven't looked at it yet and was just wondering what you all think first if I should attempt it being a newb and all and only having some basic tools and mechanical knowledge really. thanks for the help ahead of time....Rod.

hahaha.....good one Precise1....might as well be I guess....the tank came with both pumps brand new too.....I'm sure this will out last the truck though and end up on someone elses down the road....oh well.

I found a bent penny in one of mine causing the slow retracting and basically straw wrappers and garbage in the others. Wasn't hard to fix either. Maybe an hour for all at most. Or have the dealer do it I guess...

Definately sounds like grounding issues my man....you need a wiring schemetic......download the manual off this site......and check all the grounding locations in the wiring harness. There are several and on the engine as well.

FSM's are pinned at the top of this Forum. Not sure if there's ECU codes in there or not though. Good luck...

Crap.....I just spent 120 bucks for a whole new tank from Nissan. A day late and a dollar short it seems....

Yes, I finally found a temporary cap in the house until my replacement comes in.....just a tip if your on the trail and lose one by some chance.....don't forget your ABSOLUT! ABSOLUT

Glad I could help. Also sounds like the wiring in your truck has some issues. Take your time and use a good volt/ohm meter and a wiring schematic from the downloadable service manuals on here or elsewhere, and you can find most of your problems. If you can't find the problem, you can always bypass the original power and ground wires and run new ones to the fuse block.

Only one cat came on my pathy and my exhaust is all original and all stock.

You gotta short in a wiring harness somewhere I bet......just a tip on something I found on my pathy.......some idiot who replaced the O2 sensor at some point and time before I owned the truck didn't put the wiring harness back in its bendy clips and zip tie points along the way which also ran the same path as all the transmission wires (harness) that runs back up into the engine compartment from underneath the truck on the battery side of the pathy. Look under your truck on the passenger side near the tranny and follow your harness back up to the engine compartment. There's like 4 connections of wires plus your 02 sensor wire that goes over the tranny and then follows the other wires if it's like mine. If it's not secured right, it will run smack dab into the exhaust down pipe and the harness will start to melt against it. Mine was starting to, and luckily a fuse popped and started acting like your truck did, before all the wires got melted. A fuse melting is a short. You have to find what circuit it is exactly on a schematic and see where it goes and find the short. Don't keep replacing the fuse, or the harness will melt and you'll have bigger problems or possibly a fire.

I'm pretty sure there are some Nissan mechanics on this site or at least someone who knows the answer to this. I ordered all the cooling hoses on this engine. There's like 10-12 of them I think I received and one is still on back order. My problem is even with the manuals and exploded diagrams I found here and there.....I can't find all of them visually from under the hood....and some of them are tiny little boogers. Any pics or good idiot proof diagrams would be great. Thanks ahead of time if you can help me.....Oh, and one other question if I may.........I'm aware of the A/T cooler issue on the Nissan OEM units......was there ever a TSB for this from Nissan and was it ever corrected by a redesign on any model years? And what can an aftermarket unit do better, besides be bigger in size for better capacity or cooling? Aren't they all just a tube with fins that can clog no matter what? Thanks again for your edumacation for us simple folk...