00PathfinderSE

Can anyone tell me inside/outside diameter of stock rear coil springs? Weighing my options on spacers. Thanks

Do you have take the strut apart to get the spacer on or does it sit on top of the strut between the mount and the frame?

The Monroe sensatrac struts I used to have on mine were horrible. KYBs are OEM and are great.

How do you like the Frontier?

If you do it be sure to torque the bushings down with weight on the wheels. FSM states all rubber bushing be torqued with weight on wheels. This is because you want the bushings to be in a neutral position when the vehicle is on the ground under it's own weight. If you torque them up with the wheels hanging down they will be neutral in that position. When you lower the vehicle on to the wheels you're going to be winding up those bushings and you don't want that with the vehicle in a static position. They're supposed to wind up when the suspension is traveling up and down over bumps. Not doing this will probably wear out those new bushings a lot faster than they should.

Got all the control arms, and sway bar links installed. Had a heck of a time with the bolts on the lower control arms by the back tire. They were seized in there really good, and went through about 5 sawzall blades trying to cut them out. All said and done i'm glad I did it. All four arms I pulled out had cracks in the bushings. Pathfinder feels noticeably stiffer, and smoother on the road now. I tightened the upper control arms while the back axle was on the jack stands because they were easier to get to. I tightened the lowers with vehicles weight on the tires. I had half a tank of gas in it when I tightened everything up. After all done I was reading in the FSM to tighten everything up with vehicle in "unladen position: full fuel, fluids and mats in designated position yada yada yada. Is tightening things while the axle was on jack stands and only half a tank of gas going to make any difference? I'm hoping the unladen position thing is just a general definition and I am being a little anal retentive.

Rear control arms should arrive today. Contemplating getting it done today. Sprayed PB Blaster all over the nuts yesterday, hope they're not too seized on there. I've had a bit of a sway issue on the highway for awhile, but not too horrible. I hope the new components fix it up good. I've tried pulling on them while the truck is on the ground and can't get them to move much, but I imagine they must be worn as they're original and the front end sure was.

I didn't know there was such a thing as manual factory hubs on R50s?

Oil change and filter, greased the new tie rod ends, and prop shaft, and tightened the passenger side valve cover, bit of a leak and the screws were pretty loose.

I would go with MOOG. I just replaced my tie rods with MOOG and they looked really beefy and of good quality. Also, they were made in Japan and so is the truck so should be good. I've had beck/arnley sway bar links on my truck for the last year or so with no issues.

LOL. What do you think?

I should have specified I did both, measuring with a ruler and string. Pricing out some rear upper and lower control arms. There are Moog uppers available. Do I go Moog or Dorman?

I used the string method and aligned my wheels. Worked like a charm! Took a few adjustments and a couple of test drives to get it just right but she drives perfectly straight now. Really happy, it has been years since my Pathfinder has driven like this. Best of all, saved 80-100 bucks and probably did a better job than a shop as I really took the time get it just right. Thanks!

I got a hold of an inner tie rod tool and replaced all four tie rods kind of spontaneously. The moog inner tie rods I put on were identical to the oem ones I removed-even made in Japan. The outers were a little different and beefier looking than the OEMs. The front end feels great now and absorbs bumps like it was new. However, despite my best measuring my front wheels are significantly out of alignment. I've seen some videos on youtube of guys doing alignments with a piece of string going from the back tires to the front and then adjusting the toe. Anyone tried this? I'm tempted to give it a shot. Or should I just fork the 80$ for a shop to do it?

yea considered that, but the price seemed right and it was less work so what the heck. I think if I can find a thicker snap ring it should tighten things up.

axles, control arms, ball joints and hubs installed. Huge improvement. The pull seems to be gone completely. Well worth it. Will do the tie rods another time, still need to find a tool for that-any suggestions? I'll have to wait and see about the gas mileage increase, I'll keep you posted. Thinking about the rear suspension now-upper and lower trailing arms as I can feel quite a difference from front to back over bumps. Plans for spring I guess. Thanks for the suggestions!

It's new aftermarket. The boot was torn on one and going on the other. I've finished both sides now, both have slightly more play than the old one. I've been told from some that it's not a big deal. Any other opinions? I may have read in the FSM something about getting a thicker snap ring, depending on the slack. Maybe I should call Nissan.

So I put a new cv axle in on the drivers side. It went in without too much issue, but when I put the snap ring on the end of the shaft on the hub, I can still pull the axle out away from the hub another 1mm or 2 (if I try). Is this okay? With my old axle I could just get enough room to get the snap ring on.

Picked up some Warn's from Amazon, worked out to a lot more than 166 shipped to Canada though. Have yet to install them as I'm doing axles as well and will be doing them at the same time. Hubs look really nice and solid though. And made in the U.S which I like. Glad I spent a little extra to get them.

I got the steering rack bushings installed. Not as big of a pain as I thought it would be. The driver side bushing was definitely on the way out. Steering is much tighter now, but still have the clunk and think the steering should be tighter still. Ordered front lower control arms, ball joints, half shafts, inner and outer tie rods, and manual hubs. It's got about 115000 miles on it, and it's all original. Plan on keeping the truck for years to come, so figure now is a good time give her a refresh!

I have the exact same clunk you are talking about. The driver and passenger side inner tie rods make a clunking sound with engine off and moving the steering wheel back and forth. I can't figure out if the sound is coming from the rack or if it's the inner tie rods. Did you replace your inner tie rod? Did it fix your problem?

Did you have any reason to think it was the outer tie rods specifically? What brand did you get? Thanks

Thanks for the responses guys. I'm not sure why I found It hard to believe that small amount of play was the issue. But now realise this has to be the problem as everything else seems good under there. Does anyone have a step by step on how I can go about getting the old bushing off and the new one on. Will the steering rack move freely enough once the bolts are out to replace the bushings. Thanks again for the help.

Yea I didn't think it could be just from my weight, I'm 190. The driver side rack bushing has a very small amount of play in it. I can get to make a clunking sound with truck off and turning the steering wheel hard back and forth. I didn't think it could be enough to cause such a significant pull. what else should I check?

tire pres is 30 psi all around