JamesRich

How did the chicago electric winch hold up? James

I'm new to wheelin in a truck but I've be exploring on a four wheeler for years. I made sure my quad had a winch before it left the dealer. Every quad has a solid rear axle and that just helps you get deeper in the poo. Without my winch I would have gotten lots more exercise walking 5 plus miles through the woods. We have cougars in our woods. It would have been a long 5 mile run in the dark. Course now with cell phones you could call your buds to come get you. That Lockrite looks like a pretty cool addition though. According to 4X4 parts you don't even have to set up the gears again. Sounds easy, easy is for me! James

Thats how it worked out on my Titan too. No bigger than 2 1/4 pipe into 1 3" pipe seems to be the best setup. I like two pipes out the back and also I have a bolt broken on my Y pipe and don't feel like trying to drill it out. Would be much easier to just cut it off. James

You will have to take the clip off of the anchor arm to get it in. First make sure your t-bar is all the way in the lower control arm, if it's not you won't be able to get the anchor on the back end of the t-bar it's a close fit. Put some marine grease (water proof) on the splines then slip the anchor on. Try to index the anchor arm so it splines on with the adjuster nut all the way backed off. This will give you more adjustment. Make sure the anchor arm O.D. grooves sit on the cross member correctly then put the retainer clip on. Jack the front of the truck up until the tires are almost off the ground. This makes it easier to turn the adjuster nut. Then crank it down and lower the truck and check with a tape measure. Repeat until both sides are even. James

Anyone else have two pipes coming out the back? James

I have a question on your current duels. Where do your pipes exit? I would like to run duels out the back but it doesn't look like there is enough room around the panhard frame bracket to pass a pipe there. James

Take your time man ,I'm in no rush. James

Ok Cool. I'm not interested in the overhead speaker I just figured it was higher trim level with more options than an SE. Thanks for clearing up the wires in the differential. I thought it might have been like the titans electric locker. This truck has rear disk brakes too, which brings up another question. I wanted to do the rear disk swap because this truck will be in mud and water alot. I figured the disk would be better because I wouldn't have to worry about taking off the drums occasionally to clean them out. But I forgot about the drum emergency brakes on the disk set up. Do you guys with rear disk have a problem with crap building up inside the rotor when you play in the mud? This little truck stops way better than my titan with the 06 "upgraded" brakes so I'm not really looking for better stopping power just less maintenance. James

Hey Guys, I found a 93 in a salvage yard, I think it was an SE. It had a premium sound system with speakers in the roof even. No leather though but had quite a few options. The rear axle had the orange sticker stating to only use LSD fluid. But right up at the pinion yoke it had some wires going into it. I looked over the dash and there were no switches that said anything about locking axles. There was some kind of switch that said something about power but I think it was for the auto trans. I tried turning one wheel and it would not turn without the drive shaft turning so it was at least LSD. Did some trucks come with factory electric lockers? If it did I assume it would lock when shifted to 4 low? James

Looks like it is on the passenger side, and has threads so it should be threaded into the intake plenum. James

More info please?

It looks like your retaining clip is still there it just didn't retain the anchor arm where it should be. So the anchor arm slipped of the splines or the front of the torsion bar came out of the front A arm. The torsion bar is a hardened spring steel so it should be ok but the splines on your anchor arm or lower A arm may be screwed up. May need a trip to the scrap yard. James I pulled the section on the torsion bar out of the service manual for you but don't know how to post it.

If you put that big heavy F block in your pathy it will stand up on the nose like a weeble if you hit the brake too hard. Also I don't remember the ford tranys having the transfer case mated to the tranny. It was on the frame with a drive shaft going to it on the ones I worked on looong ago. I would go with the good old chevy 350 if I did a V8 swap. The VK56 would be ideal if you had a donor truck but now a days the computer systems are tied into the whole truck. Maybe with a stand alone computer system. And you would be sticking with nissan. James

I got a whole set of lego wheels with the newer style caps and crappy 31s last week at the pick-a-part for $115 but none of the yards around here have the older style caps. If some of you guys would like to pick some up and mail them to me I have pay pal, and would really appreciate it. I will take extras too for down the road. I don't mind paying for your time too, just please don't rape me. (Not that I think anyone here would) The paint pealing doesn't matter I will repaint the wheels and caps when I get a complete set just no cracks. James

Anyone know where to get the older style center caps for Lego wheels? The kind like on my truck in this pic Not like the ones in this pic (that I borrowed from the for sale section) I searched on line and can find the newer style like in the second pic but not like the first. I need one front and one rear. James

I couldn't find any all thread rods harder than grade 5. I couldn't even find any fine thread rods. I finally got the bushing flush though. I used a 5/8 threaded rod with union nuts. The union nuts are a little over 1" long so they have way more surface area. So this setup and a long 1/2 ratchet and I got the bushing pressed flush in the frame. It even bent the 5/8 all thread but didn't strip it at all. I think I could hang the entire truck from this bushing and it would not come out. It was a long battle (all day Sunday and three days after work) but I won in the end! Good thing though because the torch was next. James

Just don't crash and you will be fine! James

Here is a picture of the suggested tool in the manual. I'm just using a sleeve on each side of the frame with an all thread through the middle of the bushing and both sleeves. One sleeve pushes on the bushing while the other sleeve is against the frame. I stripped a 1/2" all thread too, going back today for a 5/8". This has to work, The hole in the bushing wont accept larger than a 5/8". James

The air hammer didn't do much good. Build a puller type setup but use at least a 1/2" all thread rod. I still have around 1/2" to go to get the bushing flush. I grabbed a 7/16 all thread for my puller setup I put together and stripped it without moving the bushing at all! I'm about ready to setup one of my other toys in front of the pathy and teach it a lesson! There might be a pathfinder for sale cheap with no front end parts and a lot of holes in it! James

I can't wait till I finish working on this thing so I can go have some fun. It's giving me so much trouble working on the front end, I will abuse the hell out of it when I finally get to go! James

Oh believe me I was wishing I had a torch. I had gotten most of the rubber out so smoke wouldn't have been a problem. It was that damn soft metal sleeve! A torch would have helped alot. My brother has one at his house but he lives in the next town over. If Nissan would have pressed the bushing into the arm instead of the frame I could have brought it to his house. I have been a mechanic since 1988 and never had this much trouble working on anything! Even on big diesel trucks. Course I was always working in a fully equipped shop. James

I read about the regulator when I was searching, but my coolant gauge works correctly so I'm thinking the regulator should be good. I'm busy working on the front end right now, I haven't checked much for the gauge yet accept the sender. When I get to the gauge problem I will pull the cluster and check it good. Just stacking ideas right now. I read something about a radio shack part to replace the regulator but the link to the info was dead. Can someone repost that? James

Has anyone here replaced their lower control arm bushing? I'm talking about the bushing in the front not the compression rod bushings. First, what the hell was Nissan thinking! Press the bushing in the frame instead of the removable A arm! When they say you need a special tool to change this bushing they aren't lying to you! I will have to make myself one tomorrow. I cut the center out of the old one and figured I would split the sleeve and just knock it out. Boy was I wrong! 4 hours later with chisels punches and an air hammer I finally got the @#%& thing out. All my neighbors really enjoyed me and the air hammer. Then I tried driving the new one in with the air hammer with a big socket on the end. I still have about a half inch to go and it wont budge anymore. Tomorrow at work I will turn a couple of sleeves and pick up a piece of all thread to make a "special tool". My suggestion if you need to change the bushings on your pathy, sell it! James

Yea I would like some ideas too. My old sender had open spots so I figured that was why it showed 1/4 tank all the time. I changed out the sender with a used unit that tested good with an ohm meter and it is doing the same thing. The sub tank gage stays on empty too. James