olddirtyrake

Well you did say it wouldn't start after WASHING THE CAR check or don't check just trying to help. Might as well just put new starter in like I did.

I have an irritating problem. I am removing cv's but cant get the top A-frame to come loose from the ball joint. The vehicle is on jack stands and the lower A-frame is jacked up. The 4 bolts are removed but the A frame will not come off. I was wondering If anyone has a good trick to pop this thing off. I called the Nissan dealers shop they said its just hard to get off and were of no help.

Ya I guess they didn't take that good of care of it for only having 95,000 on it. Was taking off the cv and noticed that the shock mount on the bottom is busted off. Now I'm going to have to put a good weld on that too. man that whole side is messed up. The cv boots torn,shock mount busted,tie rod end needs to be replaced, tension bar was busted,list goes on and on. Good thing its all fun right?

I think it could be moisture getting into the distributor. My girlfriends Subaru has the same problem I put a new starter in and it still has the same issue. So if its moisture I would check your distributor for cracks or unusual wear. Whens the last time you have changed the spark plugs and wires? I would check for spark and examine the distributor. Not certain but doesn't hurt to look. let me know if you remedy the problem.

Well, I'm not the most experienced guy out there, but I know it could be a number of different things. A few easy things to check might be, fuel filter(may be clogged)If you run it really low on gas a lot fuel pump or injectors may be clogged, or spark plugs,plug wires,distributor may be cracked or worn, check throttle cable for ware or slack, Air filter could be old. I would buy some seafoam, and follow the directions on the can, may clear gunky build up. And last but not least check your Transmission fluid. These are just some things I can think of could be many other things, some of the more experience members would be able to service you better I'm sure. (just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents) cat converter could be clogged as well

I'm having the same identical problem to you, and my miles are reading 90,242(funny how close they are). Plus, I think this spell checker is getting mad at me(makes me feel like I need to go back to highschool) --THANK GOD FOR SPELL CHECK OR YOU ALL WOULD KNOW HOW STUPID I AM

I have an actual blinker problem.(sounds stupid already...)But blinker blinks at twice the speed, signaling (no pun intended)that a bulb is burnt. I replace the bulb, still noting. I checked the fuse, installed two other bulbs just in case the new one got jostled but still nothing. Checked the cable as far as I could see/reach all intact. and I cleaned connectors. I really dunno whats going on with this stupid blinker. If its not one thing its another RIGHT?

PREVIOUS POSTS REDUCED FOR EFFICIENCY DIY TRANSMISSION FLUSH 1. Remove cooler lines from radiator and attach long hoses to the ends with hose clamps. 2. Using a clean bucket, place both lines in the bucket and have someone hold them there carefully. 3. Crank the engine over for a second(don't run it for long) and see which one shoots fluid out. Leave that one in the bucket and hold on to it for the next step. 4. Start the engine. Be careful, the output hose will be under rather high pressure and it may spray you if you're not holding onto it. The transmission's pump will now pump the old fluid out through the hose. 5. When the hose starts to sputter, shut off the engine. Using a funnel, pour new transmission fluid in through the fill tube. I'd say start with 6 quarts unless it really looks like you got less out of the trans so far. 6. Repeat Step 4. 7. Reconnect your cooler lines. 8. Check fluid level and adjust as necessary. originally posted by (88pathoffroad, Forum Administrator)-former jiffy lube employee- first draining and removing the pan, cleaning the filter, refit pan with a new gasket and refilling with new fluid. Then more new fluid was pumped in as the first stuff is pumped out through the cooler lines, with the motor running and selecting each gear during the process. This used about twice the quantity of fluid but put new fluid through all oil lines and the converter flushing all old stuff out without the box pumping dry at any stage. originally posted by ( geordie4x4 ) Motivated to create clean cut easy to find DIY AT transmission flush after spending 2-3hours trying to find this thread again. Thanks for this great info guys (I want all that nasty brownish fluid out for maximum heat reduction/performance TRANNY FLUSH AT FLUSH

Funny thing every time I fix something on this vehicle I find something else that was neglected. Ball joints are toast, found that out when I was getting ready to bring boots in to get fixed.

Well the level is fine but its really dark barely can tell that it was red. I know that's bad, but I'm hoping that it didn't do any permanent damage. I have had it parked ever since I bought it. Hopefully flushing, and adding an at cooler will remedy the intermittent reverse issue. Though it seems to shift through all of the gears fine when I have taken it out to check If I did the headers correctly. I was also wondering what type of tranny fluid fills in this thing. The parts store called the dealership and they said the universal (red) transmission fluid is used. would feel better to get a verification on that before I put it in since I trust this site more than anything really. -I was wondering if a at cooler with specs 3/4" x 5" x 9-3/4" would be big enough or should I get another on top of that one?(is a complete kit from nappa I snagged for $5 off ebay)

I also am experiencing that problem where it intermittently will not shift into reverse. I read a couple posts on that. Im going to flush trany and check shifter position, and install aftermarket AT cooler.(bigger the better or what?)maybe 2 coolers? well anyone with the time to answer a question or two in this post would be greatly appreciated, THANKS.

May be a stupid question but what is bars? Sounds like a viable option if the tightening of the oil pan bolts doesn't quark the leak.

I will have to double check the fluid leak upfront but I'm about 90% sure its oil, your right though have to be sure before I go turning wrenches. I wouldn't really say I'm upset to be sinking money into it, its just that every time I fix something on it I find out about something else going down hill. Dont get me wrong I know I got a steal of a deal, but between baby, full time job and college, time and money is tight. CANT WAIT TO GET THIS THING TO BE MY DAILY DRIVER,EXCITED!!! and send my pos ford 2wd to the crusher(which also only had 100,000k on it bought for $200 lol)<-- had a whiskey dent on the whole passenger side but mechanically sound.

I will try snugging the bolts when I get home, that's a great idea. I would just fix the leak (if there still is one after I tighten oil pan bolts) as I hate polluting the environment, but I have very little time lately and its going to get real cold real soon and I don't have a heated garage.So the leak will have to be leaky until summer. Thanks again for the smart thinkin. Yes, the fan clutch is a replace item. ---Cheapest fan clutch I could find was $55, Junk yard said they would give me one for $20. I remember seeing a np there with 100,000k maybe that clutch would be ok, or should I just go new?

Well, I bought a 1995 Nissan pathfinder xe 4wd with 90,000 miles for $800. Mint body nice tires and interior. Was told the only thing wrong with it was the wheel stabilizer(friend sold it to me and he knows nothing about cars). So I got a new one from the jy and fixed it. Well turns out it needed a new head gasket. So I did the head job and timing belt myself(what a pain) and runs like a champ now, besides a little bit of lifter noise. Only problem is I forgot to check the crank seals while I had it torn down. PROBLEM:It mostly leaks oil from the back of the engine (a very slow leak in the front, very minimal),the leak overall is not super bad so I was wondering: -if I keep a good eye on the oil level and fill as needed, could I get by on replacing the crank seals until it needs a new timing belt and manual transmission. When this AT craps out I'm going to put a manual in. I take it that would expose the rear crank seal where its probably leaking? -Is the leak in the rear probably in the rear crank seal, or could it possibly be the oil pan gasket?- (I think it could be either.) -Can a leak damage anything as long as you keep an eye on the fluid? -My Friend says the clutch fan should be spinning faster than it does when you gas it,is there any way to fix it or do I just have to replace it.I live in Duluth, Mn and it gets cold really cold here so maybe I could get by until spring? I would just fix the seals but I'm losing steam with this thing. After fixing head Gasket, timing belt, alternator,(went out as soon as I replaced heads...)stabilizer arm,changing tranny fluid,Oil and oil filter,this thing is starting to become a money pit. Ohh ya Im going to put a AT cooler in too,plus I need a boot repaired...... SOMEONE HELP ME----------U-U--U-U------------ I'M SLIPPING

After reading this complete post it gave me a weird feeling. It was like hmm kinda like I wanted to ship my 95 Nissan pathfinder to Afghanistan with an American dummy in it with an American flag strapped to its chest. Just to see if they would waste their bomb on garbage. Just kidding, great post. 90% complete with my head gasket/timing belt replacement. Can't wait to see if I'm going to be calling up the junk yard yet. Over all I hear that this vehicle is a good performer but poorly designed for maintenance. P.S AT sucks big time does anyone know if replacing it with a manual is affordable/possible?