Derrik

Hi all, My pathy is NOT on a level surface & I cannot move it at the moment. I need to set it to level by raising the front end slightly (This is for my trailer hitch fabrication project). My problem is I don't know where on the vehicle is the designated level surface (is there one for the pathy?). On my old cadillac you place a bubble level, like between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the fender under the hood. Has anyone with a known ride height located or know of such a spot, maybe like on the roofline or something ? Otherwise, I can just wing it. Derrik

I like to stop. new ones, with warranty. rebuild the originals - assuming they say "nissan" on em. stor-em somewhere.

Midas is just a chain, which means you get a pretty good warranty that follows you around, which may be beneficial in your case. However, I am not familiar with the Charlston area, but in the California (all the major cities) there are specialty independent muffler shops, and I have had one in Sacramento put on a muffler for 100$. That was just the muffler. I believe that if you need a system replaced starting back from behind the cat., it wouldn't be more than 100 more. However, if the cat. also needs replacing, add another Franklin. My local muffler shop (Firehouse muffler in Sac.) quoted me 450 to replace my entire system (91 pathy) with larger tubing starting from behind the headers (included new cat and cheapo muffler); this was about 2 years ago.

OK, that does sound bad. Though you meant, 4-hi, didn't you? that would be the gears that give you the most tourqe advantage against the motor. If the motor is really and actually seized, though of all the things in that vehicle it is the toughest component, then, I really like the 350 idea that slick recomended.

Just be sure that you dont have any liquid (maybe like a 20CC MAX) in a cyclinder when you turn it over, other wisecatastrophic engine failure could result. Just fill those cylinders with the diesel, and let it dry and drain slowly, while you detail the rest of the vehicle. The engine will be fine.

The lights on my cabin environmental controls are dead, though I swear they come on sometimes. At night I can't tell (other than by feel) where the temp control is set at. The AC button light works fine, however, is that what you mean?

I think the U.S. is the only country that accurately tracks gun related casualties, though I bet it is still high on the list, I also think this number is offset by lower crime statistics in states that allow concealed weapons, but its just a guess. Heh, an armed society is a polite society.

Nope.. re-check the vacuum hoses... then get the error code number and check it out.

Hmm, I was gonna vote in the poll, but I concluded that I would be willing to pay more depending on what equipment I was desperate for. For example, if I needed access to a bandsaw and an acetylene torch, I would pay 20-30 or more per hour, but if all i was doing was using the lift to change out the fluids or install a "test pipe", throw some knick-knacks on or just poking it to try and troubleshoot something, then I wouldnt pay more than like 5-10 per hour. Just a thought. You might have to adjust the rate dependent on the equipment used. Like a base rate of say 5 per hour if scheduled in advance with a stipulation that they might be bumped if someone is willing to pay more for that slot. Hmm a true free market. Kinda like e-bay. ..... Anyway, walkup's get are offered the rate of the most expensive bay being occupied, if the place is empty, then they get base rate (base rate should be limited to the lift, basic hand-tools and 110V electrical -they bring their own lights, and their own compressor if they want.) 220V is another story, house air, air tools, etc is another rate addition during their useage period. And finally, we have shop tools (lathe, grinder, mill, bandsaw, welder, etc.. thats the pricey stuff say 25 per hour device each - but hopefully they will be smart enough to only sign up for 15 minute periods on each). Ack, Im goin to bed now...

HEY! . There isnt a vote option for 1 white and 1 black. Oh, and do they come in different sizes? Anyway. I would like 1 white (non-reflective) and 1 black (um, also non-reflective-- . Thanks

Please define "New Replacement engine"... and what do you mean by "taking down the new motor"... Did you order a used engine or a [re-manufactured, or rebuilt] long block? Bacause if that is the old engine in the pictures, then maybe just a head rebuild is all you need, 'cause the pistons look OK from here.

I don't suppose you changed the water pump while you were in there. If you didn't, then you may qualify for a level upgrade. You see, one may purchase their way to the next level by experiencing the double-timing-belt-change-because-the-pump-went-out-10k-miles-after scenario. Oh! and it is imperative that you also NOT change the thermostat if you wish to experience the engine-overheat and head-meltdown scenario that is a required experience for achieving level 2 via the fast-track. Personally, I drilled five 1/8" holes around the new thermostat to allow some flow in the event of a thermostat failure (It turns out that I cannot afford the fast-track to level 3).

I think there is an ebonics filter that we can run your statement through which should produce a more authentic rendition; Similar to what Venge was able to accomplish. ah yes here it is: http://www.joel.net/EBONICS/translator.asp

Really good double-stick tape?

The switch never gets removed (at least, I don't think I had to remove mine, anyway). Disconnect the negative cable on the batt., then pull off the plastic around the steering column. There will be a white plastic cover over the switch (I don't remember if it is held down by rivets or what, but I recall delicately prying it apart so I could get to the contacts). Finally, you can clean those contacts with a small file and a little electrical contact cleaner. I used some stuff called De-oxit that I scored from my time with Xerox, but I think Radio shack or Fry's has similar stuff.

The water ones are the best, when a SuperSoaker waterfight erupts in the dorms.. oh the memories.

Well yeah, thats what I meant as a gift. Example, I take a bottle of Mickey's to my grandmama, and a new DVD for Grandad when I visit their house. Your place; A tube for you, and .. well.. maybe some more tube for anyone else .

Only cause I am suffering from some terrible flu symptoms, not that I like to start trouble or nuthin, that I add *fuel* to this dying fire.... It does seem theoretically possible that you could cause a plasma ejection and acceleration by creating a specifically sized convergent-to-divergent duct (in the place they show), and filling it with the critical mass of fuel to achieve a supersonic speed, IF all the stars line up with the phase of the moon, to equal the angle of the dangle and the heat of the meat, then blammo, add at least 1/1000 HP for that cycle. OK, so I am having a brainstorm idea (If this ever gets patented, I'll cry); If we create a hollow spark plug ground electrode through which to feed a pressurized fuel/air mixture into the combustion chamber of the convergent/divergent duct (basic rocketry folks), then such a system would more consistently achieve the claims of this inferior product. Who is with me!?

Oooh, sandrail chassis for me too, please... make mine aluminum... In fact, we should go to your place with beer and tubing when it arrives.

I am seriously considering option 1. On the other hand, my neighbor has a big stick welder, but he can't use it because he doesnt have the correct 220 plug, I might have to make a trip to home depot and hook him up in trade. A trip to Chico sounds like fun though, thanks for the offer

Just turn the key to the on position (this causes the fuel pump to pressurize the rail, but leave the engine-off). The fuel rail should now be pressurized. Look for leaks/wet spots along the fuel rail.

I had the same gas smell once, I finally looked and the front of the fuel rail has a rubber conenctor hose connecting the two halves of the metal rail; anyway, this was wet, tightened the clamps, and problem solved, so, I'd say you have a bigger leak somewhere because of the performance symptom.

I am fabricating one now. I'll shoot for that look, Bear Claw. I am starting out with a Hitch from a Ford Ranger (craigslist-15$), and 23$ worth of scrap metal, that I bought today. Problem is, my 90AMP MIG probably won't do so well on the 1/4" plate scraps. pics: http://ileana.net/91-pathfinder/bumper.jpg

Bump. I am currently in the 20hour of this marathon of trying to find plans/instructions/guidance/formula/whatever for putting this custom rear bumper hitch thing together when I finally came across this thread that describes exactly what I am looking for (Good thing work is light on Saturday, and have been getting paid for it). Anyway, has anyone made any progress on this? I think I am just gonna buy some metal on Monday and start fabbing (I am in Sacramento if anyone is interested in helping). - D '91 Pathfinder

I bought a starter last fall at autozone for about $120, comes with a Lifetime warranty. Don't get me wrong, I don't wanna have to go through the 3-hour-royal-PITA it is to replace it, but... I am willing to take a chance on their rebuilt starter if at least I won't have to pay for parts if it breaks again. BTW- I have used their warranty service on an alternator in the past and it was smooth sailing. no troubles there. - D