Derrik

Is there an adjustment procedure to set the travel limits of the window? I need the window to lower all the way into the door. anyone? please? Beuller? anyone?

I had to pop open the light switch in the steering column and file the carbon off the light switch contacts. It worked better after that. The front-right light still cuts out every now and then. There are a lot of forumthreads on rewiring the lights with a multi-relay setup. I think ye be close to that time.

Let me clarify this; The windows rarely ever move when I press a button (up or down). To get a window to move, I press the button until I encounter that special moment (where the electric motor is satisfied with the position of moon and stars, and other unknowns) and voila!, the electric motor operates. When this happens, the window will move the entire distance in one continous motion to either end of its travel limit (or until I let up on the button). It is this "travel limit" that is compounding the confusion. This "travel limit" is my second problem. None of the windows (even during the rarest of moments when they give the appearance that they are working correctly, by moving smoothly in one long continuos stroke) ever disappear completely into the door panel. They authoritatively and consistently stop with 7" of glass above the trim panel. So I am asking you all, if this is as far as the windows are supposed to open, and if not, is there an adjustment somewhere? Don't make me post a video; 'cause I will do it and make everyone watch and give their opinon I just need to know, do your rear doors' windows go all the way into the panel? Do your Front windows go down and stop no further past showing 7" of glass above the door panel trim, or do they recede completely and disappear into the door like in a normal vehicle?

I have a '91.. None of the 4 windows go down all the way. They have done this since I inherited this Pathy, so I don't know any better. They all stop about 2/3 of the way down. Is this normal; even for the front windows? This is in addition to its recently-worsened problem of that they rarely work at all, for which I have been diligently conducting research on these forums and which I am about to start troubleshooting this week. Interestingly, if I press two buttons at the same time, it increases the chance that a window will move. Any advice? What I plan to do: 1. Check/test the relay (pass kickpanel) 2. clean/test the window motors 3. examine the regulator assembly- incidentally, how would I know if the correct regulator is installed? 4. 3lube the tracks with silicone anything else?

Will these headers help to keep my exhaust manifold studs from breaking? If someone gives me the "step-by-step" solution on how to bulletproof the studs (or add ss bolts) for these headers, then count me in on this chromed, or ceramic-coated, or SS (preffered) DT Header group purchase. FWIW- I have read that the header tape forces so much heat and moisture to be in contact with the metal that it accelerates the corrosion rate to the point that the pipes disintegrate.

from the end of the linked article. "There you have it. For the most part, electric fans are not recommended as an upgrade unless you have a very specific reason to do so. They provide inferior ..." Also, RX-7's will very rarely get a body lift that makes it impractical to retain the stock mechanical fan. So, yeah, I hope no one on this forum is putting in an electric fan because they want more HP or CFM.

UPDATE: Been running the system since APRIL 15. No problems at all so far. Experienced a couple of 90+ days here in Sacramento. The fan control system thermostat is set to activate upon sensing 180deg at the outflow from the rad. The purpose of this is so that the fan only activates if the radiator isn't doing any cooling. NOTE: this assumes the mechanical thermostat on the engine opens completely at 180deg- anybody have any pertinent info on the mechanical thermostat? Although on cool nights on the frwy the engine temp indicator never reaches as high as when the fan activates. I suppose it might be better to set the thermostat according to the pathfinder's temp indicator to maintain a consistent temp on hot days the same to what is achieved on cool nights. Though I have also heard that the hotter the engine coolant (short of damaging temps) the more effecient power the engine can produce. i.e., Temp indicator-needle example: . . . . . ___ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .| \ .| . vs. . | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cool night. . vs. hot day - fan maintains this temp. on frwy . . . . . day idling in gridlock Any ideas on any of this? Controller installed - Passenger side Connections to electric fan- direct to fan (bypassing the Flex-A-Light integrated fan relay) Fan Installed

Hmm, ... are the throttle cables OK? Check the cables and linkages right up to the throttle-plate; maybe the plate is having a problem/closed; does it move easily when activated by hand at the intake? Try manually holding the throttle-plate open (in the engine bay) while starting it.

Were you experiencing any symptoms before the maintenance operation, was the failure caused by faulty maint. during the fluid/filter change, or was this just an unfortunate coincidence?

I bought the the FK-35 Fan Control Kit- it comes with all the hardware and wires. take note: I bought it on March 11 and it arrived on April 2nd: apparently, this is typical shipping for this business. I suppose he hand assembles each unit to order. Caution: This installation is not complete, nor even dry tested; and I am making it up as I go. What I have so far: DSC03931s.jpg - FK-35 mounted on passenger side inner fender. (you supply a 1/8 drill bit, pneumatic drill, optional center punch). Yellow wire goes to an inline tap (splice/tap purchased separately) to the WB (white w/ Black stripe) wire of the ASCD Hold Relay (second Relay in Pic). It was left coiled because as of yet, I don't know if the wire I tapped at the ASCD Hold Relay (WB wire) is gonna work out. Red wire goes to battery. Blue wire goes to an inline tap (splice/tap purchased separately) to the BW wire (careful, there are two BW wires in there) in the harness behind the Pass. side headlamp. This is the A/C wire (it turns on the fan at 50% when the A/C is on). This Blue wire is tapped to the BW A/C wire within the main harness directly behind the pass headlight. DSC03932s.jpg - Pic of the Pass. side main harness at the Headlamp. The fresh electrical tape is where I removed the old tape, entered the harness and found (with my multimeter) the A/C wire, tapped the blue wire into it, and re-sealed the harness. I simply ran the blue wire along the harness to this tap termination point. DSC03934s.jpg - Pic shows routing of Black (ground) wire. It connects the top left terminal on the controller to the body ground at right center. Also shows the Red wire routing; along bottom of Batt. tray. It connects to the Pos. Batt. term. through a fusible link. NOTE: ignore the fresh electrical tape and plastic tie wraps on the main harness below the controller; I tried to find the A/C wire in there, but it was too crowded to locate it. DSC03935s.jpg - Pic shows red wire (this is the power input to the controller) routing. The wire disappears as it extends past the batt. tray (I left it too long) and loops back to splice into the brown fusible link (center of pic). Hi-def full images available at http://ileana.net/91-pathfinder/ The fan has not been mounted yet <maybe tomorrow> Additional stuff I needed, but not included in kit: You need two 18-22AWG in-line splice/taps : here is an example- http://www.discountcarstereo.com/pdf/905.pdf 1/8 drill bit, pneumatic drill, center punch 11/32 socket and ratchet wire cutters, crimpers, strippers (wire), pliers, needle nose..... oh man, you can't can't expect me to include a complete list of all these various little tools in this list. More to come...

I finally had to remove the upper intake, remove the TB and clean the whole thing, there was so much carbon in there, I took it to the machine shop and let them do it for $20. Looks to me like the EGR port lets all that carbon in there. Hasn't stuck since (3yrs ago)

After running around for tha past 5 months without any fan, the wife sez it is too stressful to watch the temp needle, around town, with the twins on board and the OAT in the 70's. So, I went with the flex-a-lite 150 and the www.dccontrol.com controller. It isnt completely installed yet, but here are some pictures (the controller arrived today and I picked up the fan on e-bay for $60). Why the more expensive FAL? 2,800 cfm at only 14AMP draw (Starting current is rendered irrelevant with the dccontrol unit). These projects always take me too long to complete, argh. http://ileana.net/91-pathfinder/DSC03928s.jpg http://ileana.net/91-pathfinder/DSC03929s.jpg full size images at http://ileana.net/91-pathfinder You can see the dccontrol unit mounted on the inner fender by the battery tray. (yes, the batt. will be re-installed in its orig. loc.)

Stainless, Monel, or Titanium are the ideal materials for header fasteners; its what is used in the aircraft industry.

Emergency brake was engaged? I dunno, is this a riddle? Anyway, No towing auto-trans without disc. the driveshaft on the rear axle. Towing backwards on the dolly is fine too (lock the steering column when towing this way, boys and girls).

Umm, yeah.. I don't think it was mentioned but, related to "why its hard to backup"... EXTREMELY important (and easily ovelooked for the for the first 50 feet) ... You have to leave the STEERINg COLUMN UNLOCKED (of the towed vehicle.. though it helps if you also leave it unlocked on the tow vehicle as well..

It would make sense that the truck engine is designed for torque and the sedan engine could trade that for upper end speed. This is traditionally accomplished with different crank lengths (longer cranks require lower RPM's because piston velocities set the limit). So the maxima makes more ponies because HP is a function of RPM (and torque), but tourque is primarily dependent on adiabatic efficiency which is better at lower rpm's (laminar flow is more difficult to maintain as air velocity increases).

The stuff in the brown puoch? that kit?

You might be right. AC43.13 clearly states, thingamabobs are only component-level devices.

The problem, as it has been explained to me, is with the automatic transmission. If the engine isn't running, the trans isn't getting lubed, so you have to make sure nothing is trying to turn it (disc. the rear driveshaft & transfercase in neutral). But with a manual tranny, this isnt a problem. Does anyone know if the transfer case and trans share fluid/lubrication; specifically, is the transfer case lubricated by the action of the input shaft? That would be my only main concern before committing to it. eh, just let the engine idle as you tow it.

I went to my local trailer store (Allied trailer in Sacramento) and paid $25 for the wiring harness adapter specific to my '91. It connects right up to the harness in the Driver's side compartment at the tailgate. I did this because the harness requires some electronic thingamabob (Really, I have a Bachelor's degree in aircraft electronics; cum laude even, this is an industry term) to convert the signal to the standard 4-wire trailer config.

I guess Mr. Pickles got the joke..

In case anyone is interested, here is a progress report: http://ileana.net/derrik/PICT1157.JPG http://ileana.net/derrik/PICT1158.JPG current problem is: on the left side (drivers) the existing frame bracket the protrudes downward, juts inward toward the center of the vehicle. This makes the distance from the center of the hitch to the left side about 5/8" less than the right side. The real problem is that this encroaches on the hitch crossmember by about 1/8". I am going to cut-out the welds on the fame hitch, and move it over this distance and re-weld it. Then I am pretty much done.

I suppose the one posted on the sticky at the top of the garage forum isnt very good, but hey a wd21 is a wd21, right?

You are gonna have to disconnect the brake-hose from the right caliper (the one that is having trouble passing fluid) and see if fluid comes through when the brake pedal gets pressed (basically, you are bleeding the system to the right caliper, so follow the usual brake bleeding procedure, except, you will just leave the hose end submerged in a jar with brake fluid). If fluid is passing through, then it may be that there is an obstruction in the new caliper. This is one option, there may be other things you can try that would be more or less effective. Good Luck.

WINGED! .... or is it wung? it cant be "wunged," though it is fun to say. Used 2 laser levels, took a while, but hey, experience has taught me to, measure twice (or ten), cut once. This is especially true when dealing with 20$ worth of .25" cold-rolled 2x6 C-channel (approx length: 28") that one has already spent 3 days shaping. It also doesnt help that I am marking everything with a crayon, though, so I have to be extra exact where I sink the center-punch, cause my marker tolerance is like 3/8".