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Everything posted by 1987caddy
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I was thinking maybe rear main leaking was a possibility
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Hey everyone, I noticed today on the interstate pulling a hill that the clutch is slipping some. If the cruise is set, it will jump up a 1k on the tach. From a dead stop it's grabs really good. It slid my sub box against the hatch. There's no chatter and it's not jumpy taking off just slipping around 65mph(3000k). Any suggestions?
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Is there a fasten seat belt light on the dash flashing when you turn the key? My 95 does and thats what I use as a timer to start the truck. Gives the fuel pump time to cycle on and off and it starts a lot faster that way
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Thanks for the info. The white plastic internals were all broken up but I had all the pieces and used fiberglass and resin to rebuild it all. Horn was working somewhat until I noticed the black collar on the steering column that has the brass connectors that ride on the back of the wheel were not touching very well. Adjusted everything and now the horn works really good and the cruise control will set without having to beat on the bottom of the wheel.
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I checked the refrigerant tonight and it was 40psi at 84 degrees outside. I let the a/c run for a few minutes before checking. I guess I need to tint the windows to help with the inside temps. It like setting in a fish bowl in the afternoon.
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Hey everyone, I had a quick question about the steering wheel. I have a 95 with no airbag and the guts inside that work the horn is all busted up. Does anyone know what years use the same horn center as the 95? The junkyard has a 94 and a 93. I hadnt went yet to look and didnt know if any other nissans would work? thanks
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Yea that's what I was thinking. Just can't get over how much the compressor bogs it down. Turning it off is like hitting the nitrous button. It's so instant. Could being low on freon cause the compressor to bog down?
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Hey everyone, on my 95 when I turn on the a/c it cools ok but really cuts the power down. Sometimes when merging on the interstate I have to turn it off until I get up to speed. Is the common or is this the beginning of problems down the road? Thanks
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Thanks everybody. Should have new pc tomorrow
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Hopefully I don't look too dumb asking this question, but where can I find a couple of the forum stickers? I'm working off a iPhone as my home pc crashed and there's not a search function that I see. Thanks and want to show support for the site.
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I like the no inspection. The rear bumper was rusted between the license plate and the frame mounts so I cut the rotten metal out and put steel plate in. Then I cut out a square in the new metal and placed expanded metal. Put lights in behind the grate and now there protected.
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Thanks for the help. Here in Alabama there is no type of inspection. I bought the truck in Kentucky and when I brought it home they didn't even check the VIN. Really like the truck and for only thousand bucks, can't beat it.
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Yea they only come on with the low beams. Everything is stock on the wiring. I will check on the power wire you mentioned. Thanks
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Mine has the factory fog lights. I just to be able to have the fog lights on without running the headlights. I'll look at the wiring harness to see where I can piggyback into so the fog light switch will activate
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Has anyone wired their foglights so you can run them with the parking lights and headlights? If anybody has, is it a PITA and please let me know how. Thanks
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Thanks for the info. Now I have to price tires when they wear out.
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I have a 95 xe that I have cranked the t-bars and spacers in the rear coils. I found a set of Armanda 17 wheels and tires for 250. The tires are 285/70/17. They convert to 32.7 inches so I'm wondering if would fit and what mileage and highway rpms might be. It has the stock 15 wheels and tires on it. Tired of turning 3k at 65 on the hwy. I don't do any extreme 4 wheeling with it. Mostly field running and commuting. Any info I can use? Thanks
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Hey everyone, I was trying to fix my keyless entry today. Only my panic button on the remote was working. The lock/unlock button didnt do anything. As I was going to the steps of reprogramming the remote again, I bumped the panic button on accident. Now my panic button locks and unlocks the truck. Dont know if the big button is bad or not but aleast my keyless entry works again. If your remote is worn out, try that to buy you some time.
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Thanks for the help. I looked around the shop today and found some afco racing strut rods I used on a later model dirt car. Just have to make a mount for the heim joints. Thanks again.
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Thanks, but i would rather put new ones on that deal with the same problems again. It seems that these are well known for breaking are troublesome.
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I was finding my exhaust leak this morning when I found that the driver's side strut rod is broke were the bushings go. The end is broke when the large nut and bushings go through the bracket on the frame. Is there any aftermarket companies that carry these or are they dealership only. No telling how long it has been broke. I HATE rust.
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Has anyone used this newer type of fluid? I have a gallon left over from my GMC and was thinking of using this in the power steering and transfer case. Trying anything for better gas mileage. BTW it is going in a 95 xe v6 5 speed
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Just received a TPS that was on rockauto for 11 bucks. It is a beck/arnley unit that matches up with the original. It for manual trans only as Advance auto wants 110 for one. Site shows only 7 left. Thought I would give everyone a heads up.
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Hey everyone, I have a 95 xe v6 5-speed. Made a long trip this weekend and after about 100 miles of non-stop driving, the cel light will come on while coasting down a hill when in gear. The light will go out when accelerating up a hill on the highway. As long as you are pushing the pedal, the light stays off. The more you drive the worse it gets. When pushing the pedal to get the light back off the motor hesitates for a second than clears up. Also when idling if the light is on rpms are really eratic. Checked the codes and only 55 is coming back. I am thinking MAF or TPS. Any ideas?
