87pathy
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Posts posted by 87pathy
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the bushings are different,but the cups are very similar.
you could find the cups in a junk yard.
i just happend to have some extras, cause when i change the ford bushings, i don't always change the steel cup (no reason too, keep the good ones for spares, in case)
just another option.
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when im back in the states.. lol
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I just did this fix as well on my DD 89 pathy.
the holes were wollowed out, and the "cups" destroyed.
I rebuilt the holes with weld.. and teh cups..
get this, cheaper and easier than teh bearing up idea.
As some of you know i have a ford radius arm suspension.. I change those busings like i change oil.
the bushings ALWAYS come with new cups.
wouldn't you know.. they are just about the exact same dimentions as the nissan cups down there. Hole size same, cup diamter same.. they are just a little thicker..
so, i welded one of these on each side, cleaned it all up with my die grinder.. and WHALA
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its not that important for the torque spec, i have been using a 3/8 impact gun and havent had a problem yet.
a GOOD IR 3/8 impact only puts out 75 ft lbs when new. at 110PSI
so if you have a lesser quality, or older one, ow lower air pressure..
Your only torquing it to aroudn 60-65 ft lbs.
which is within range.
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Tensioning is the best way to go, but impractical, we used stud tensioners for anyting longer than 300mm long and over M30 diamter.
the longer the bolt the more deflection you get during torque, leading to more inconsistant torque values.
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Not that I'm supporting improper assembly procedures at all, but, you really think that the change in surface finish from new to old and rusty, plus any error in the torque wrench (when was it last calibrated etc.), is only going to be 5%? My impression is that torque is really not a very good way to get to a specified tension, but it's really the only thing convenient, so we use it. There are all kinds of more advanced systems out there (indicating washers etc.) for critical applications... they exist due to this problem, right?
Ok, if you REALLY want to get into detail
ALL torque values are supposed to be wiht new bolts and light oil on the threads.
You are NEVER supposed to torque a bolt more than once.
Lock washers are garbage, cause they dialate over use, and the bolt becomes loose, leading to fatigue failure.
You have to remember, if its yours, do what you want, but if you are making a recomondation to somebody, you better make sure your right.
will it fail.. can't say
but for 5 bucks? come on.. change them.
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I don't mean to be rude Zelix, but if you choose to go the lazy route with this and hope it'll be fine - you're an idiot. If you don't want to take the advise from the folks on this board, who do know what they are talking about, and then state you're going to ask other sources, then why even bother posting a thread asking about it in the first place?
Go to the junk yard or hardware store and replace the four bolts, four lock washers, and four nuts. Then don't over tighten them. It's cheap insurance.
really, for the whole 5 dollars it will cost you.
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Alright thanks guys, 75 isn't that much more then 65 i think. I asked my dad and he said dont worry about it. I will ask my auto teacher what his best suggestion is, otherwise i dont think i will be victim to any catastrophic failure.
you ever had a drive shaft come apart at 65mph?
google it.
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Rear hatch? the lock broke shortly after I got the truck attempting to unlock the hatch. Is that the problem???
I'd almost put money on it.
my buddy had the same problem.
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I would guess that most torques give you the wrong tension by more than 11% anyway...
plus or minus 5% actually, so, its still too much.. just saying
you may be fine for years to come... but you might not..
I only tighten my u joinst with a wrench.. if i can't push on it with a WRENCH,, its tight.
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For that high of a torque its either a grade 10.9, or its an M14, odd ball thing.
i have access to engineering charts for bolt torque that i use every day.
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ok, lets look at it this way.
56 ft/lbs is 80% of proof load. (standard engineering value)
so, proof load (safe operating range) is 67.2 ft/lbs.
You over toruqed them by 11%.
will it fail.. maybe not.. but do you really want to take that chance?
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that alty won't put out more that 18V.
I ran mine for 1.5 years at 18 volts.
I'd ve investigating a short.
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Our rear end is mighty beefy. If people ca shove these and use D44 rear ends no problem, then we should be able to also.
changing a Nissan H233 for a Dana 44 is going backwards.
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200K, There is nothing wrong with it.
IF you put in a 350, DON'T PUT A CARBED ENGINE IN IT!!!
that is so, 80 yo technology.
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Ok thanks, i set that at 75 yesterday is that ok? or should i lower it down to 55?
if in fact they are 12mm grade 8.8, (which i think they are) and you torqued them to 75, they now need to be thrown away because you are just about at yeild of the bolt. and have over torqued them. (which means you have stretched them beyond safe use)
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yup, rear hatch..
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I'll make it one day....
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German specs.
Gudentite.
i think they are M12 bolts. so it would be about 55 ft pounds.
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got randies Ring and pinion to upgrade my D44 alloy shafts to the new hardcore shafts.
FREEEEEEE of charge.. those guys rock.
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baffle pack is alot like a glas pack, but has baffles in it.
glass packs are not spark arrestors, and cuold get you in trouble.
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get a high flow cat and a baffle pack.
works great and will pass emisions.
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mine quit workign years ago, then it started working again.. then stopped again, hasn't worked for several years.
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No info on what year Chevy's had 63 inch springs?????
80's chevy half tons
Need help making a choice....
in General Forums
Posted
i know a way to pait it a nice mud color and texture..lol