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Posts posted by 87pathy
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Yes, that makes sense as the DRL are turned down hi-beams. Thanks adamzan.
I changed the same turn signal/light switch a couple of years ago. At the time the highs were coming on intermitently. Cost me ~C$45 at a wreckers. Now Napa wants C$260 for it. Back then, it cost less than $200 at the stealership if memory serves. The DRL module now costs C$147 at the stealership. My impression? These parts are getting more expensive. Hey, I thought the Canadian dollar was strengthening. What happened? Or is the supply of the 1990-1995 pathfinder parts starting to dwindle?
the light switch is like 75 bucks at north shore nissan, i bought one when i was living up there.. FYI.
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limiting straps are your friend.
they can be had for 25 bucks a piece.
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all engines.
there is no difference between the vg30i and the vg30e, except induction, flow rating in the heads and timing belt.
they are the same engine.
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same fuse on the 87"s check that ive had it happen
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he said try nissan camioes, which means nissan pickups.
most international business speeks english.
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i change my engine oil about every 500 miles..
but those are HARD miles. high temps, redline quite often.. etc.
only dino..
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It runs allot nicer now, the place I notice improvement most is my acceleration. I find it easier to accelerate, like the truck has more pep to it, and its nice and smooth!!
thats good to hear.
from what i have heard and seen, using sea foam is a 50/50.. fix it or ruin it.
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you sea foamed your engine.
well, you either fixed it, or finished it.
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http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB99-020c.pdf
whew! I was scared for a minute. says here flat towing a manual tranny is OK. auto trannys BIG no no.
I knew stick shifts were good for something!
cool, i was partially wrong.. thats good.
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So i picked it up and towed it home by the bumper mounted towbar. works great. its ugly, but functional, which is all that REALLY matters I guess. the bars are a lil low, but not across the headlights like I thought. across the top maybe, but not covering too much.
they welded some big tabs on the face of the bumper for the towbar to hook up to, and it works.
the way they welded the angles on the bumper you cant really tuck it back any further, and it does have the winch sitting back there too, so not so bad all in all.
if its gonna be ugly, i'll make it really ugly, with big D-rings and tow hooks and a receiver port, all that. lol
do some research,
pathfinders are not to be flat towed.
Improper lubrication in the T case occurs.
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Even with the new motor I dont like to run synthetic. It just seems to run better with good old napa oil.
napa oil is good.
Made by valvoline.
its what i use
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good luck, nissan diesel in north america is very rare.
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well, they have a bender, but I wanted to keep the squared off look, so I asked them not to bend the tubes actually. Ill look at these "stingers" you have mentioned.
they called to have me come pick it up, so I guess Ill see what they finished up with. (sigh)
depending on the bend and bender, they can do a tight 90 on your conrners, it will look much nicer.. just saying.
its functional now.. but the corners near your lights are kinda fugly. (thats just my opinion, and you can call my cage fugly, cause it kinda is..lol)
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1 question.
its a custom shop, building a custom bumper.
and he doesn't have a tube bender?
time to find a differnt shop.
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over here in Puerto Rico is not easy and harder to find a early bronco axle or some thing better for cheap i just want to get rid of the ifs crap and i think this is better than the ifs but i get your point thanks
use a waggoneer front axle
this is the best choice.
it is 6x5.5 same lug pattern.
I believe its 1980 and newer but it might be 1980 and older.. one of them is passengers side drop differential, the other is drivers side. they changed in 1980, but cna't remember exactly
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it won't be cheaper.[
need new wheels.
fab all the brackets twice
You do know that they are 5x4.5 wheel pattern? and your pathy is 6x 5.5
and no way to change them.
so now you gotta cary 2 spares
etc etc.
if your paying over 100 dollars you are paying too much.
to each their own.
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i am 100% anti synthetic.
i tried it too, and problems..
don't like it.
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it could, but don't.
its a D30.. it won't last long.
I break D44 alloy shafts
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out of phase means, that the yokes aren't aligned. make sure that the U's are in the same parallel with each other.
its really hard to get these aprt, so i'm not sure how they would screw it up.
the yokes should be like this >< not even 1 deg out.
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I really like the "concept"
but two words run through my head. don't ask what they are.
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ive had people tell me how ugly my bumper is.. but its hell for stout..
lol.
my whole rig takes a pounding...lol
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vaccuum leak.
or, wiggle the wires on your ecu.. mine did this one time.. i wiggled the harness at the ecu and it hasn't done it since..lool
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unfortuantly no.
I have had zero issues.
all is good in the hood.
It was very stiff shifting, but has gotten better.
I have found that for normal trail bopping. just using the 2.6:1 in the stack case works mint.
the 2.02 in the stock nissan case was a little high, just a touch lower and sweeet.
Its cool, when i get to an opstackle,in the 2.6:1, i reach down pull the 2 speed box in low range, (shifts mint) crawl the front end up, reach down, shift back to high in the 2 speed box.. and PIN IT...
soooo nice.. Front digs are sweet too.
Here is a vid of the rubicon in august.. don't remember what gear i was in, buy you can seee its pretty low.
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just get a red top.
they are fine, all optimas went through a bad period, but they are good again.
Your not going to use that winch much.
I have pulled with mine until the winch stalled,(engine off) and then started teh engine right back up.
don't waste your money unless you have it to burn.
Dead Weight Project/Cust Mod
in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Posted
i was going to say carpet.. but you already got that.
when you get rid of the ifs, if you do, it will also remove weight, (the nissan ifs is heavier than a d44)