madhornet

just do not drive on a hard surface like pavement in low

it is internal i had mine rebuilt and it did not sound any diff after, i put probably 30,000 kms on it since and is still fine i also have heard others sound the same with no ill effects and yes as posted earlier there was the issue of not having enough fluid from the factory,

on 4x4parts .com forums there was a wire bypass that i did on my wd21 95 pathy then i was able to unplug the alarm box, what a pain it was randomly going off

$50 delivered i am in Canada

i have run auto hubs for 12 years and never blew one always had 8" rims with 31's or 10" with 35's and a posi up front never blew a hub strange guess i will stay away from the manual's

aftermarket is listed as one yes but OEM has them diff as he posted

they are just different temperatures

last time i had that issue the crappy Bosch plugs i put in a couple of months before that burnt out i chased that problem for a month not thinking the plugs were bad being just replaced also a bad distributor bearing can cause the same issue or a burnt out cap and rotor

ok look to spend about $400 to $700 at a muffler shop

make sure u have at least 1/2" of thread up into it if not get a new set of bolt i have been using the guard and the hooks for years

i had to drill some out to the larger vg33 style studs aswell probably almost half but the 350z ones are a better grade material for the extra turbo weight and heat so theres a mix and they have held my pacesetter headers on for almost 3 years also i used new gaskets and the high heat copper silicone that stuff alone can almost keep a header on

100% exhaust leak check it at the egr but like mentioned before it is probably an exhaust stud loosened or broken, now is a good time to think about headers and do some research on here to fix it yourself which can take most in experienced wrench turners days a shop will charge u anywhere from $300-$600 just to fix the one side, i did headers and fixed all my bad studs (used the 350z turbo studs) my self with the engine out on a stand and i still had 8 hours of time

go for the 3" you will be happier in the end and i just fooled with a torch and a vice to get my shifter just right

you sure did... LOL

i am having the same issue new axle lines and shoes adjusted even had to bypass the proportioning valve to get half brakes back not even driving and i have to pump 1-2 times to get full brakes before proportioning valve bypass it was 3- 4 pumps

yep thats what AC customizers sell and i put in my wd51 95 pathy and it works great ppl are amazed by it...

http://www.completeradiators.com/articles/34.htm

antifreeze is acidic like battery acid and the longer it is in there this gets worse an alkaline battery has 2 diff metals inside and eats its self internally to give u power once the 2 different metals inside the battery get eaten up or corroded the battery dies out, well thats what antifreeze does to your radiator and water pump and HEADGASKETS the head is aluminum and the block is steel (2 diff metals) and also the fire rings in your headgasket are steel well the antifreeze is the alkaline and so the more acidic the more the metals get eaten up because they are so close together only the thickness of a gasket between the 2 different metals so the more acidic the more chemical reaction with the 2 metals less acidic less reaction so yeah FLUSH IT get a multimeter put it on DC then AC and stick one lead in the rad cap in the liquid and put the other lead on different metals of the engine block and heads and u will get electricity the older the coolant more current and compare it after a flush Voltage of zero to .3 is normal in a coolant of cast iron engine. Such an engine will be destroyed with time by .5 volts, and engine manufactures are reporting .15 volts will destroy an aluminum engine.

the downside is the ford engines would have less horsepower with the bigger cutaway it would drop the compression ratio but not by much lol

sorry but why did u listen to someone from walmart? this part is available anywhere

i had this happen one valve was bent too bad so i ordered one and another was slight i did not notice until i lapped the valves i put it in a vice and hammered it strait i only did this because it was almost 2 weeks for delivery for a valve the other valve i seen at first disassembly. i ran that for years after the quest engines are 100% identical no difference AT ALL u got lucky hope u went and bout a lottery ticket LOL

no rear control arms in those diagrams maybe u mean lower control arms? anyways that part # does not come with a rubber it is sold separately

i run 600 lbs of tools and toys in the back of mine daily and i tow, run 33's on 10" rims and mud it off road with a family of 5 and i couldn't imagine anything else that would handle what i put this through

distributor cap and rotor button is most likely they like to burn out in the middle