revgolem

Had the same problem. Definatly would say it's the hatch switch. I just disocnnected mine.

Wow. Explains a lot. I guess I never really looked into it and just assumed that relays WERE being used. I mean... why not? Would also explain why there was enough voltage to melt my healight/turn combo switch and connector all to hell and back.

Not REQUIRED, but R12 is becoming harder to find and more and more expensive.

Man that's nice! Get's me all excited... I'm moving to the Seattle area in Sept. Rainer is definatly on my spots to hit. Maybe I'll catch you on the trails!

also, the front wheels are never "perfectly level". they are always a degree or two off in various directions to compensate for steering/suspension issues (from the manufacturor). There are a few really old school guys who can get really close with some string and a couple of levels... wouldn't know the first thing about how they do it though.

Thanks. Just what i needed. guess i got a different version of the manual, none of my pics looked anything like it.

ok, draining collant ('95 V6), found the plug on the radiator... no prob. I can't find ANYTHING that pinpoints where the drain plugs are in the engine. heynes mentions "one is near the mount and the other near the alt". there's a lot of stuff near the alt. anyone know how i can pinpoint the right ones?

yeah, i was able to feel around where it is. just looks like a pain to get to without removing the intake manifold and all that goes along with it. i was wondering if anyone has had success with replacing it without going through all that trouble.

has anyone replace their fuel pressure regulator? my 95 is running about 11psi too high and i need to replace mine, but no manual or reference i have searched has anything more than a description of what it does. looks like i have to remove the intake manifold, but i'd like some reliable info before i start diggin in.

In this forum, ain't nuthin "well enough"

so whatever happened to this? i've been looking foreward to seeing the end product. or at least good pictures of something blowing up.

Thoses are just about what you get everywhere now. i replaced my "teet-horns" a month or two ago with the standard "autozone dual tumpet". not super loud, but a bit more pericing. but then, when i went to get the pathy inspected, it didn't count. so i bought and installed the highway blasters, and then added a relay/switch for the air horn (mounted under passenger fender). now i can have the required "OEM only"... or all at once. does a good job of getting peoples attention... though i admit now i just want to add more...

Most likely the clutch is going/has gone out. If you are LUCKY all you have to replace is the compressor, expansion valve and dryer/receiver. the more you run the A/C as is, the more you have to replace... and it's very likely some of the components won't show damage for some time, causuing you to have to re-replace most of them when they do. A tiny peice of something smaller than a grain of sand can completely ruin an entire A/C system. and chances are you are throwing shreds of compressor metal all throughout the lines.

ok. let's start with the intake: 1) those little fans couldn't possibly throw enough air to make any sort of improvement. at best you would just be adding a restriction and slowing down the air. if it were really that easy then everyone would be doing it and nobody would spend the money on a turbo/supercharger. BAD IDEA 2) the diode - snakeoil. if it really were that simple to increase HP/economy then it would have been done that way during production. the main thing to remember is that if you increase one, to take away from the other. period. no way around it. and when you mess with the PCMs sensors, the engine suffers. period, no way around it. BAD IDEA

could also be the TPS. if it has a worn spot (30-45 is about where it would show up too) it would send the wrong voltage signal to the computer, basically making it fight itself and making the mixture too rich, then too lean and back again. most of the time, it won't set a code... as far as the computer is concerned the signals are plausible, just not right. is it a manual or AT? if it's AT then that's a whole new set of possibilities.

that's funny, i recently started noticing something simular in my 95. almost like a dog whistle or something...

I just replaced my boots as well. One thing to remember is that the axles don't turn unless you are in 4wheel. I ran mine with ripped boots for almost a year, but never put it into 4x4. there was a lot of dirt and grime in the joints, but they cleaned up perfectly and there was no wear. cost me $20 instead of $180.

Also could have somehthing to do with the UCArms not fitting right. I'm not sure how they are off, but even a slight difference will drastically change the dynamics of your alignment... coupled with adjusting the torsion bars and it's probobly WAY off. I just recently replaced my CV boots, and even putting everyhthing back they way it was I ended up with excessive camber and toe (from the fron my pathy looked like " \--/ ")

does anyone have any advice or info on running the wiring for these? I apparently have the lights, and the switch, and SOME wiring... but it looks like there's no relay and these arn't ANY wires going to the switch. ugh...

Not only that, but all the resurfacing has GREATLY reduced the life of the rotors. I woulnd't be surprised if they were way under min. thinckness and needed to be replaced anyway. I'd also love to hear what they said the reasoning was.

Honestly that really wouldn't be a good idea. The rotors you have now are designed to work as is, and you would be severly weakining then and they would be more prone to warping. You will also reduce the amount of material making contact and reduce the friction. The material and the surface of the pre-drilled rotors are designed with that in mind. And if you do go and get the pre-drilled rotors definatly get the pads they recommend as well, it's all about getting just the right amount of friction.

I'd love to see that writeup. I'm about to have to replace mine too.

Just an update if anyone is interested. I reqired my system to use the low power output to the EQ, then to the factory amps like i was planning. works like a DREAM. I just seperated the wires between the head and harness, put some connectors on the harness side and plugged them in!

Hey everyone. I've had my 95 pathy for about a year now, and i'm just about to start digging into and making it my own. A few months ago i replaced the factory head unit with an Alpine tape/changer controller, sub and EQ (currently only running sub)... i used the harness and everything worked. this was before i had ANY idea about removing the factory amps from the equasion. so of course all my speakers are tattered. i'm just about to replace them, and was all ready to bypass the amps when i thought of a twost to the whole scheme... the whole reason to bypass the amps is because the power of both the head and amps were too much for the speakers... BUT, if i wanted to add them to the EQ mix, should i leave the amps in the loop? i was noticing that the EQ has only a "low level input" from the head. so am i correct in assuming that i should just cut the existing wires in the harness and hook them directly to the EQ, leaving the amps the way they are? does anyone know the specs on the factory amps? I'm pretty new to all of this, but learning fast!