revgolem

its very rate for a tierod to break. the most noticible effect will be on tire wear. if you buy the parts yourself, i would suggest doing the job yourself. many shops will not put on your own parts, and if they do they will jack up the labor rate and not be able to warranty. the main thing to remember is to get the alignment as close as possible. i usually find a reference point to measure and then count the number of turns to get the old one off as a backup. that should do you until you get it aligned, the worst that would happen in the mean time is again excessive/uneaven tire wear.

Dont know what tools you have so ill give you the quick and dirty way to narrow it down. pull the easiest plug and hold slightly away from a ground while someone turns it over (might want to use an insulated tool, but it wont kill you) got spark? pull fuel line off of the filter and turn on the key (dont have to try to start it). if you dont see a puddle of fuel then the pump is bad. if its turning over at a descent speed that it probobly isint the starter. give it a go and see where it takes you... not a whole lot to go on but its a start.

Got it! I know I haven't been around much but I'll be there! and for what it's worth... GO SEAHAWKS!

I made my poor 95 manual pull about 3K worth of uhaul trailor from central Texas to Seattle. If I can make it through the Rockies and Cascades, you'll definatly survive a two hour trip. Just take it slow.

you know. being ASE certified really isin't that big of a deal. all being certified means is that you are good at scantron tests and probobly know just enough not to check for spark with your tongue. being an ASE Master Tech means you are good at taking more than one scantron test. as far as the experience requirements, they can be met being a filter changer at wal-mart. that being said, in my limited experience so far as a mechanic i'd have to say that projectpathy89 is right on the money. USUALLY, you would hear bearings while moving, brakes while stopping, and most axle noise while turning. i'de definatly look at the brakes first. Had a guy come in a while back with the worst grinding from his DS front wheel. one shop had told him it would be several hundred for brakes, another said it was bearings. well, after i used a screwdriver to pull out the rock from between the rotor and backing plate everything was peachy and he got out of there for $20 (for 'diagnosis) i guess my point is just check everything out close, it could easily be somthing you arn't even looking for.

I would tend to agree with 88... the problems you are experiencieng sound like classic 'low fluid" levels. forgive me if i'm stating what might be obivous to some, but make sure you are checking the level with the engine running, and be sure to either take it for a short drive or run through each gear level for 5-10 seconds a couple of times with your foot on the break to cycle and warm up the fluid and then recheck while in park. once you are satisfied that the level is correct, keep an eye on it for a while...and if you seem to be losing fluid, definatly take it in while under warranty and insist that someone take a closer look at the system.

I always get excited when a pathy pulls into the shop. I've gotten to know mine pretty well and I'm always looing foreward to working on others. I had a 93 come in the other day for a simple oil change. So ok, it was 7K overdue but it seemed to run fine. I did the oil change and a little later the driver came to pick it up while I was at lunch. When I got back, it was still there and my service writer told me "you need to check it out, she said it acted like it was misfiring and she couldn't even get it off the lot." Seemed a little strange since it was fine earlier and I hadn't done a darn thing to it but change the oil and filter. I started it up, everything was fine... ran just a little rough for the first few seconds, but then so does mine... she just needed to warm up. so I pulled it into the shop to check things out under the hood. Basically, it boiled down to 230,000 miles on the ODO and it still had ORIGIONAL plugs, wires, fuel filter and possible air filter. I seriously couldn'ty belive the thing was still running as well as it was. It almost made me cry to see the complete lack of maitenence. But what was worse was that she decided that she didn't want to do anything with it. Oh well... just had to get that off of my chest.

Just so you know... I'm sure the new rotors will be better than the ones you have, but I have never seen a new rotor that wasn't warped to at least some degree right off of the shelf. Just thought i'd throw that out there so you wouldn't be caught off guard if there's still some pulsation when breaking.

Replacing the entire axle is definatly the way to go. to only way to avoid this is to get one of those "split-boot" type of replacements... but they are very temporary... some people have luck with using them for quite a while, but mostly you just keep replacing them. to replace the boot with a 'normal' type, you'll end up removing the axle anyway, spending some time cussing and banging to get the joint apart, and the banging it back together hoping that 1) you didn't damage anything and 2) that joint didn't get worn in the first place. (been there, done that... and that was as automotive school with tyhe advice and close eye of several instructors and every tool you can imagine at my disposal... would never do it again) remanufactured axles are definatly a viable way to go, most have a warranty that you won't need to use anyway, and you will usually be able to return the old one as a core to get some money back. if you take it to a shop to have it done, they will just replace the axle as well. 99% of them won't want to mess with taking it apart to change the boot either... and you wouldn't want them too as it would add even more labor time to the whole ordeal.

Not that I, and I assume NPORA, ensorses such things... but I've heard tell that it you flip the PCV valve upside down, it would pass with flying colors... though I don't know this for a fact.

I'm just kind of curious as to what the actual advantage is supposed to be?!? You are still pumping the same amount as determined by the oil pump, and i've never had a problem with the filter keeping up. More oil capacity just means, to me at least, mosre oil to put in. As long as the oil and the filter are changed regularly, I don't really see the advantage. I'm not trying to argue the point, just trying to figure out what I'm missing.

Well, if it's the pully the WD40 will take care of the annoying part... but it still means that a pully is on the way out. better to replace it then ditch it on the HWY. if the belt looks ok but is the culprit, try just tighting it up a bit first. as far as procedures, i might be able to dig them up tomorrow... that is if nobody else chimes in first.

grab a can of some spray lube like a 5in1 or wd40, something simple. with the truck running and squealing, spray just a bit on the inside of the belt. if the squealing stops, it's the belt. if not then shoot it at each of the pullys until it does stop. a very general rule with belts is that you should be able to twist it almost 90 degrees but not any further between the two most distant pullys.

definatly "lefty-loosie, righty-tighty"... the only things that even MIGHT be reverse threaded are things like pully bolts that would have a tendency to spin loose normally.

I second the fluid service. might also want to have the filter changed. not too hard to do yourself... drop the pan (makes a HUGE mess) and change out the filter/gasket... then refill the fluid. One common mistake when checking/filling tranny fluid is that a lot of people check it with the engine off. it must be done while running. also, after you add fluid set the parking break and shift between reverse and drive fairly quickly (just until you feel it shift gears) about 20 or so times. this will get the fluid warmed up and flowing thorugh the system. then re-check level and add as needed. then go for a 10-min or so drive and check one last time. hope this helps, i'd hate to see a fellow member lose their pathy!

Just a quick little tanget... Filthy... your pic is the GREATEST! Sorry... just had to throw that in.

sounds like it could be a TPS sensor problem or maybe even a crank-pos problem. ought to first check the condition of the ATF fluid though, could just be time for a service. the fluid should be a nice red color, if it's brown or very dark then definatly needs to be flushed. just remember though, that ATF fluid levels are checked with the engine RUNNING... you don't want to check it with engine off because it will show that it's low and you will end up overfilling.

Well, i traced the wires to a relay, and having experienced the "combo-switch" meltdown stemming from nissan's failure to use relays i figured it wass aftermarket. finally found the fuse neatly tucked away behind the battery and promptly fixed the problem. now, if i can just firugre out why my pathy has foglights, and the switch, but no wires running to any of them...

I just got a 95SE into the shop with a fog-light problem too. checked the connections to the switch, everything looks fine, and i'm not getting any power at the lights themselves. has anyone found an actual fuse for these things? can't find a reference to it online, in all-data or any books.

What do you mean heater doesn't work? Is it that the blower won't blow (unless turned on by the vig lighter and window switch) or you are not getting any heat. The first is definatly a strange elctrical problem, the latter probobly a clogged heater core... in which case you would want to disonnect the lines from the firewall and blow LOW PRESSURE air through it to try and unclog it first. replacing can get expensive to have someone do and frustrsating to do yourself as all the components are hidden nicely behind dash.

They can be printed on clear "overhead projector" type of paper, and I have also found some very clear and subtly frosted printer paper that takes color well. seems plausible enough, but needs to be tested I guess. all i'm lacking is the scanner... maybe the after holiday sales would be a good time...

Good printer, scanner dies long ago. I think I see where you're going with this...

So I was working on a car last week and when I got in it to drive it into the shop I noticed how cool the faces of the gauges looked. They had this gold and black flamy computer rendered 3d design. Looking closer I noticed that they were branded with a web address (and for the life of me I can't remember what it was). That was when I realized that these had been printed out on a computer. The numbers were a little blurry, but sitting back in the seat they looked great. Has anyone heard of this? Found any sites with templates, or samples... maybe even for the pathy? Half of me wants to say it's just too ghetto... but the fun says that "if it could be done RIGHT"....

For a couple of bucks at any autoparts store you can get a plug wire tester. can be used at the plug end or at the coil. If you are reading "less than twelve" volts after the coil, definatly try a new coil first.

Everyone's been right on the money so far. The problem with switching is with older vehicles. Synthetics flow a lot better than dino, and do a great job of cleaning the engine and keeping it that way. Dino is a bit thicker and seals in minor cracks and leaks. Switching to syn in an older vehicle will clean out the system, including the cracks and such causing leaks you never knew you had.