cdhicks99

I think the internet is broke! I have searched for an hour now and can't find any info on this mystery box. I have the amps sold so I need to know if it goes with it.

Did you find it in search? If so what did you enter?

Good one Dan!

None of these appear in my Haynes manual. Anyone got a FSM for a 94?

LOL good idea Dan. After I ran the numbers I got three of them the plastic box doesn't have any numbers on it.

I don't like online, but I do play Hold'em in local matches.

FYI from left to right. A/T controller,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, front amp,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,rear amp,,,,,ABS diodes.

So Sick - Flyleaf

Maybe 88 can find a solution........

Why is it sometimes when I post a new thread it doesn't give the quick reply option?

If I had to convert one I would put a solid axle under it, probably just as cheap.

Check for the rear part numbers here. The front shocks do not need to be changed unless they are worn. The rest looks good. I wish I knew when my SAS would be done I would sell you everything you need. Keep us updated. Cory

Since it has none I would go with some good aftermarket lights. That is a very nice looking rig, hope you enjoy it and us. Welcome

I love the Pro-Comp 3000's I have with 32's and 3" lift. I can't remember where I got them, Dan gave me the site, the price was right!

I'll get back to ya tomorrow.

Welcome

Very nice. That looks like a rugged bumper.

Where are you located?

Awesome Kill!

I've still got it.

Maybe worth a sticky?

That is your ECU or computer.

Use the search. This has been covered recently.

I have had a few requests on my starter fix that has been working flawlessly for over 18 months. I know a couple others that have done the same thing and have been happy with it as well, so I am posting a quick writeup and little diagram for it. Sorry, I am not much of an artist expecially with paint, but it should get the info across. This fix should also work with the HB's that have an automatic trans also. I used a common aux light relay that I bought for about $5 at my local autoparts store. I found that there is a connector in the stock switch wiring near the bottom of the battery. The other wire in the connector is for the oil pressure switch so needs to be kept connected. I simply took the starter wires out of the connector and ran them to my relay. The color for the starter wire was black with a pink(or was it purple?)stripe, it is also quite thick. the yellow with blue is the oil pressure wire. I connected the starter wire that goes down to the motor to terminal #87 on the relay. The one that comes out of the harness went to #86. #85 went to ground and I used a 10 ga wire to go from #30 to the positive terminal of the battery. Simple project that cost less than $10 and took about 1/2 hour total to do. Since then, I have not suffered from the dreaded 'click' when I turned the key. The only times it hasen't worked has been when the battery was dead or the alarm has been set off.

Dan's R50