cdhicks99

No, I enjoy giving my mom ulcers.

Or I could just run gas and be a whole lot cheaper.

A 350 Turbo AT with manual valve body works great!

Quick analysis. SBC Mains bearings $50 Rod bearings $50 Cam & lifters $140 Timming gears $120 Gaskets $20 Propane conversion $600 $980 VG30 Main bearings $50 Rod bearings $50 Cams $550 Timing belt&tensioner $70 Gaskets $150+ Head work $400 $1270+

Like I said in the original post I wouldn't even consider it if I had another AT option. I refuse to use a MT when hill climbing, I go to enjoy myself, not to be slinging gears all day long. I actually love the VG30, it's whats behind it that bothers me. In the past I have thought about getting another VG to set on the frame to make swapping over the cab a little quicker. This way I can have all suspension, engine, and drivetrain all in place before popping the cab loose from the existing frame. I think I am going to go ahead with this, since the VG was going to get an overhaul anyway, this will be my cheapest route both in the long and short.

Agreed, I have cut my heat sheilds off and it gets HOTTTT!

Well MZ, I didn't know you felt that way.....I guess I'll have to start hanging out at myjeeprocks.com....*sniffle* maybe they'll like me

Yesterday I was given a four-bolt main Chevy 350 for my cLE project. Originally I wanted to keep it as much Nissan as possible, so I would not taint the great Nissan badge. However I have MANY years tinkering with the SBC and know far more about it. The motor is in perfect running condition, all I would do is replace the low-end bearings as a precaution. I would not even consider this swap if it were not for the weak Nissan A/T. If I go this route I have an unlimited supply of Chevy drivetrain components. The question is, would I be turning my back on the great Nissan name? And, would you all still love me if I didn't have a purebred? :confused:

That is the biggest weak link on all of our trucks, good luck finding one. BTW, I am going to be taking my old one to a guy nearby who is known for "engineering" strong AT's, to see if he wants to tear into mine.

I haven't got any pics but here's my list. Center console missing CB flopping between the seats right rear panel laying in the backseat Pioneer MP3/CD player (for sale) appx. 15 lbs of dust and mud used as counter-weight. If anyone needs help doing any of these mods let me know I'll help all I can.

I'd jump on it even if I didn't need it.

You're looking at a helluva job regardless. Is there pressure on the clutch pedal when you push it? ...If not it is possible the slave rod is jammed. Could you have possibly bent the fork? ...Have you been offroad or maybe hit something onroad that may have flung up? Keep us posted.

Wow! I hate reverse light problems. I'm probably not the one to be answering this, but I'll add my .02 anyway. In the past what I have done is added a toggle for my rev. lights, really freaks tailgaters out.

Just find a waggy 44 and start fabricating.

Awesome! Congrats.

The H233 is the rear axle. The R200A is an IFS steer axle. The D44 is a steer axle, I don't understand your comparison. The D44 will be much more reliable than ANY IFS.

Damn! Been awhile since I updated. I haven't seen my frame since dropping it off at my buddies house, so absolutely nothing has been done. The wife and I are the process of buying a new house so we've been kinda busy with that and I am trying to sell some parts to finance some of this project. I have managed to start designing the four links. I am going with true triagulated four links on both axles. They will be 1 1/2"OD .25"wall DOM with 7/8" heims. Supplies to make the links should be around $1100. To start I will have to go with a standard coil setup until I can afford coil-overs. I am going to be running a Ford 9" rear and of course the D44 in front. I have decided 5.13 gears will be plenty with dual tranfer cases. I can't figure my crawl ratio yet until I find what the factory low-range is in both cases. I am shifting the front axle forward 2-4" which will serve two purposes. First clearance, because I want to keep a low center of gravity and run 36" tires, the firewall creates a big problem, so by moving it forward I can get my clearance in trimming the fender. Plus the approach angle will be excellent. Sorry for such long posts and no pics, but I want to record my thought process and explain as much in detail as I can, so other (and me) can look back and find help and flaws in my build. Feel free to chime in will your comments. Stay Tuned, Cory

Oh look it's Dan's play toy! J/K I love you Dan.

There would be a slight difference with a quality cat back setup. I f you have to have a cat, use a high flow. If your like me and don't need one lose the cat all together for a nice 5 or so horses.

Look at the original pic, it was attached to the rear side of the rear amp bracket.

Evan I would like to see some pics.

Ah Ha! The FSM doesn't show it directly, but I believe it is an ABS diode set.........Might wanna keep that huh................

I forgot I had the FSM on my HD I just needed to unzip the .rar. I'm looking into this and maybe we can get a tack for this.

I think the internet is broke! I have searched for an hour now and can't find any info on this mystery box. I have the amps sold so I need to know if it goes with it.

Did you find it in search? If so what did you enter?