cdhicks99

It will be a complete job, geared toward more hp and torque. ALL internals will be replaced (minus crank hopefully), Block with be dipped and blasted. Here are my thoughts so far. New (lighter) rods, bore .030, New (better) pistons, all balanced, blueprinted. Heads surfaced, port matched, New valves, heavier springs, mild cams. Headers, dual exh.. That is where my knowledge stops. I feel I need to do something with the fuel delivery setup, and maybe electronics, but I am an old-school mechanic at peace with early model Chevy V8's!

LOL, thanks I'll get the wifey involved.

First things first. The eng. and a/t will be rebuilt this summer. I have never built anything smaller than a V8 and definately no imports. Any tips/suggestions for a jap v6 rookie?

88 you run a A/T don't you?

Right now as far as car boards go just. streetkiaz.com and here but I am checking out some of these other sites ya'll are posting. Good thread MZ!

The door pockets are perfect for my pistol while I'm driving.

You will probably need a second pair of hands but other than that it's pretty easy. You will need a box of ribbon seal and maybe some windshield liquid sealant (both by 3M).

Yup, Seafoam is pretty potent and it'll break up alot of junk and send it through your filter and out your tailpipe.

If I had the molds my dad works for a chemical company he is currently making polyurethane, he makes crap all the time in his down time.

Got a welder?

NVM on question #2 I think it's a RE4 R01A

Also does anyone know what the trans code is? eg. like the engine is VG30

Has anyone found a way to beef up the A/T transmissions yet? Or maybe another type that will bolt to the block?

This is scary!

I'm not sure about Nissan but years ago Ford only used like 50 different tumbler combinations in their locks worldwide.

I have heard from several sources (after I bought mine) that Audiobahn mids and highs are pretty crappy, even though their subs have a great reputation.

OK. I tested the speakers which were OK, then I took down the headliner and began trcing down the wire and found no noticable shorts. So I ran new speaker cable straight to the head unit. Problem resolved. While I had the headliner down I also fixed the rear window washer line that was clogged beyond belief. Question does the rear amp fead rear speakers and front amp feed front speakers. I know it sounds like a silly question but I have seen stranger things.

Ah! Thanks.

UCA?

I too have done hundreds of installs and never seen anything like it! It isn't comming from the leads, as we both know one of those gets grounded you get NO sound. My spark is coming when the speaker frame touches the cab. I am going to test the speaker as prescibed above this weekend. I will update then.

No, the frame of the speaker is what is sparking. There are no leads near the speaker that are touching metal.

Tried that but for that to work I would have to have plastic screws.

Before ya'll start, I know that these are powered by the factory amp. I installed two brand new audiobahn 4x6 plates in the rear overhead locations. The speakers worked great upon testing (dangling from the ceiling) but when I put the right one in the hole it sparks like voltage going through ground! When it is in the hole the sound quality just plain sucks. I have reversed polarity still no good! Any suggestions?