5523Pathfinder

I have been posting this a lot lately on our FB Page, maybe it should be pinned to find easier.

Double post. Sorry

You do not need the iridium plugs. V-power plugs work fine, change them every 50k. NGK wires will last you 100k. Same with the O2 sensor. Be sure to double check the timing while your at it.

I wouldnt want to take any business away from Rob, but if he doesnt work there anymore, I can recommend my good friends Shea and Geoff at Tacoma Nissan. They are two of the best Nissan parts guys Ive ever met. Plus Ive known them for over 10 years now. They know their Nissan stuff. Give them a call and tell them Derek recommend them they you. Tacoma Nissan parts 253-579-1264

Do yourself a favor and grease the bushings before you install them. I use Sil-Glyde all the time and lasts a long time. It will keep the bushings from drying out, rubbing together and wearing prematurely. You may also be over or under tightening the nuts when you assemble them.

Most likely you have lost the small magnet that is attached to the key cylinder inside the door. Take your door panel off and pull the plastic water shield back, look up with a flashlight at the key cylinder and there should be a small plastic "key" on the back of it. There is a small rectangle shaped magnet. Look around inside the door of its not there and you should be able to reattach it.

Are you sure it's not the inhibitor realy? Big blue realy next to the battery.

It may of needed to learn the closed throttle position as its drive by wire. It's easy to do, but is time consuming. Don't rush it and things should go fine. What you want to do is sit in the car with drivers door closed and no loads on. Keep your feet off the pedals. Cycle the key to the on position(do not try and start) and let it sit for 10 seconds. Once 10 seconds is up, cycle the key off for another ten seconds. You have to do this about 20 times. This will learn the throttle pedal closed position as well as the throttle body closed position. You should end with they key on. You can then try and start it and see what happens.

What year is your rig? Which engine?

That's weird! I was just on his website a few days ago. But I think is was on a different host or something now that I think about it.

Uh, yeah! Japanese engines love NGK plugs! I've changed far too many cheap plugs from Nissans in my time.

Put new spark plugs in tonight. They were overdue but not in bad shape.

If you listen to the Nissan Nation Podcast, they are currently talking to a guy who did it last year and he is sharing his experience. He did it in a Xterra, modified some and pulled a trailer! The TAT is in my bucket list also!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12044-what-do-you-always-have-with-you/

Check this out if you haven't already... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19755-fix-your-keyless-entry/

Pig Mat!

Instead of buying a tool, why not rent one from the Home Depot or something? Possibly cordless? So you might have to buy a blade, big deal.

Courtesyparts.com has a timing belt kit. It's everything you need.

The bushings at the hinge are most like shot. If you open the carrier all the way and look at the inside of the hinge pivot, you should see a hole. You can try and pump grease into it and see if it helps, but a rebuild is most likely needed.

I have a feeling your using Tapatalk. If you see error messages or things didn't seem to work, just ignore it. Tapatalk is not that great. I recommend just using your normal browser. This will keep duplicate threads being made of the same thing.

Double check for rust in the front strut towers as there is a recall but some are bad. Your smoke may just be the valve cover gasket leaking due to the screws being loose.

What kinda nf of spark plugs do you have in it?

Simplicity- rebuild or swap in a new vg30 Little extra work- vg33 swap No lifted IFS lifted vehicle is perfect, they all need upgrades. You you do it right, you can have a great rig. Don't rely on quick and cheap options. You can body lift, you can suspension lift. 3+3+33's has been the formula for a long time, but depending on your needs, you may need one or all. Figure out exactly what you wanna do with your rig first.

There are several possibilities. First of all, you did replace some steering stuff, but you should probably check it all again. Worn center links will take your alignment out pretty fast. With negative camber, I would check and make sure your shims on the upper control arms are still there. I would check to see what kind of warranty your alignment came with and maybe have it redone. Next, did you put new shocks on at all? It's possible the tire may be "bouncing" causing the tires to cup. If you cranked the t-bars as high as they can go, you might want to bring them down a touch. This would also explain the negative camber look. Have you considered some steering upgrades? I would recommend a idler arm brace and steering stabilizer at the minimum, especially if you wheel. Oh, do you have a printout from your previous alignment? If you do, take a pic of it and share. That would help to see what's what.

How's your oil level?