govols74n

Look at what A/C is trying to sell this for....485.00 without any accessories!!! http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...2c9175f537ad6db :o

tHERE ARE TONS OF POSTS ON THIS try the search feature, make sure to search ALL FORUMS, from today and older. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/684669/5 http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html

No, I left the box in there, but I removed it then took out the plastic thing in the fenderwell which the sound from the intake goes into to get muffled...then I put the box back....the air still comes from the grill, but if you look at the air filter box, there is a small 1" plastic pipe connecting into the fender well. No air comes in from the fender. I havent noticed much from the removal yet, but I'm going to put a cap on the open hole on the filter box where the "silencer" was to make sure all air is forced into the intake instead of coming out of the side.....the pathy seems to have more punch but I don't know if it is just from removing the clogged cats and installing the exhaust or both...? But there is a slight growl under the hood.

To check ball joints....lift front tire, grab the top of tire with one hand, the bottom of the tire with the other....try to wiggle the tire back and forth this way (top to bottom) if it wiggles, one is bad sly

OK, thats going to be fun, I'm going to try it....if it proves useless, Ill put it back on thanx.

OK, heres the deal...you have upper and lower control arms or A-arms as some call them. The torsion bars go into the lowers....follow me now, at the rear of the torsion bars there is a point where you will see a bracket type deal with a real long bolt going into it....the bolt has 2 nuts on the top. (one locks in the other to keep from loosening) when this bolt is tightened, the torsion bar gets more pressure, forcing the lower control arms downward....this in turn raises the vehicle. ( the top nut has to be loosened first) The torsion bar IS your spring. That is what keeps your pathy from laying on the ground as we speak. This is the only way to lift your pathy unless to strip it and put a solid axle in it, or do a body lift....but the torsion lift is not complicated if you follow the instructions these guys gave you.....I didn't know how either, until I found this forum a year or so ago.....hopefully this will help you understand better....I'm sure someone else will add to it if I forgot something....

Dumb Question, but I didn't even know what one was until yesterday...OK....is it the lung black box in the fender well?

I finally got the exhaust set up today, got rid of the "pre-cat" (had 2) and got 1 high flow.... CLICK THE PIC

Yep, I got mine from autozone(next day order) and they were around twenty something a piece....

Don't tell me you bought one....

The reason I was asking is because I have serius and it's just plugged into the cig lighter and the thing doesn't lose memory....the stations automatically reload every time I turn it on via satellite.... once I program something into it it stays until I delete it...

Pay some kid to lay on the roof....(strapped down for safety)...and hang his arm down over the back, swinging it back and forth.

Has anyone removed the intake silencer/resonator? Been reading up on it and wonder if it sounds good on the pathfinders...?

I am stock today, but I just dropped the pathy off...tomorrow she will have new pipes-(2.25") from the engine back, high flow cat, Flowmaster-40.....

The best thing about my SE are the heated mirrors....lifesavers!

Get the parts and see if you can get someone mechanically inclined to help....You don't need NEW torsion bars, just need to adjust the ones you have....you may be better off asking your local shops if they will help.

Heres a pic of what the torsion bar looks like to get you started. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/novemb...r_installed.jpg there are 2 -one on each side of the truck, running to the lower control arms as for the rear, here is the link to a writeup 88pathoffroad did... http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html Heres something that trailchaiser typed up. .for the torsion lift...if you can turn a ratchet or breaker bar than you can do this.........You just jack up the front of the truck, loosen the main adjuster bolt (19mm) till it's loose, then unbolt the three bolts(two 14mm one 17or19mm) that are holding the anchor to the lower control arm, mark where the splines are before you move the anchor, now slide that anchor towards the rear of the truck till it comes off the splines, then rotate it a couple of splines, then slide the anchor back toward the front of the truck, then bolt it back up and readjust the bolts at the rear of the t-bars till you get the height you're looking for. Use lots of penetrating oil on the adjuster nuts before you do the job. Also you might want to be careful if you're planning to use a rachet with a backup wrench on the nut. The two thin pieces of metal that connect the bolt to the t-bar are known to bend when you start applying the ole torque. It sucks using an open ended wrench on that bolt for 10 minutes, but I've got one out in the garage now that's a prime example of what happens when you get in a hurry. judge.gif Grease the bottom of the heads and the top of the half moon before bolting'em back up to keep things slippery.

The control unit for my 94's factory alarm is under the dash between the fusebox and steering column....it's a black box........maybe they are all different, to mess with us

Take a screwdriver and touch the big terminal (POS) on your starter to one of the smaller ones...it will turn over if it's any good. (take off all jewelery and dont touch the metal part with your hand) see below for more.........hope this helps CHECKING OUT A STARTER MOTOR AND SOLENOID Starter motor problems usually are indicated by the following symptom: Turn the key to the START position and you hear a loud click, or sometimes you hear nothing. The headlights are bright and don't dim when you turn the key to START, and everything else electrical seems to work fine. It could be a bad starter neutral switch or a bad key switch but about 99% of the time it's a bad starter or starter solenoid. Here is the procedure for checking out a starter motor and its solenoid. Problems in a starter motor normally involve a "bad spot" on the commutator, the electrical section of the armature that contacts the brushes. They get dirty and worn down. The brushes sometimes wear out but not normally. Open circuits can occur in the armature or in stator windings. You could fix these problems but the normal procedure is to replace the starter with a rebuilt. If the starter motor armature just happens to stop on a "bad spot" the circuit is open and the starter won't turn. Sometimes you can "rock" the engine by hand (be careful - make sure the ignition switch is off) or in a standard transmission car you can put it in gear and "rock" the car by pushing it forward or backward a few inches - this can move the starter motor off the "bad spot" and get you on your way, but it's a crap shoot as to when it will happen again. Sometimes rapping the starter with a hammer can make temporary contact where the contact was flaky, but you can do more harm to the starter than good if ya hit it too hard!! You can diagnose the starter by measuring the current draw. You can purchase a small "clamp on" ammeter that you simply lay on the cable to the starter - ya don't have to disconnect anything. Crank it and watch the little needle tell you what the current is. If there is a high current draw then you know that the starter is at fault. There is one main reason for a starter to fail when it is hot - worn bearings, especially in the tailshaft. The heat generated in the starter by the engine and the exhaust pipes (sometimes) causes the armature to expand. If the bearings are worn then the armature drags (actually contacts) on the stator causing a short circuit and a high friction drag. Sometimes just replacing the bearings can fix the problem. When checking out a starter motor it is a good idea to remove it from the car and lock it firmly in a vice. If you don't hold it down securely, like in the jaws of a vice, and it turns out to be good, it will twist rather violently when it spins and possibly fall off the bench onto your big toe - could really ruin your weekend. You can do the following test with the starter in the car but it makes it a bit more difficult and there is a chance of shorting out the test jumper cables to ground. Referring to the above diagram, the "big terminal" on the starter solenoid is where the battery + cable goes. There are one or two smaller terminals on the solenoid, one going to the "start" position on the ign switch. On a bench test, the negative battery jumper cable goes to the vice that is holding the starter by the frame. The Positive goes to the "big terminal" on the solenoid. Jump from the big terminal to one of the smaller ones with a jumper wire or a screwdriver blade to actuate the solenoid. It should click and the starter should whirrrrr. If it does, don't get carried away and let it spin freely for a long time - it's not good to run a starter with no load for extended periods of time, especially an old and tired one. If it doesn't spin, look for another "big" wire going into the starter. On GMs you can usually see it at the other end of the solenoid - it goes into the body of the starter. I'm not sure about other makes and models. Look around. Carefully touch the + jumper cable to it and the starter should immediately whirrrr and you should get a good sized spark - that is normal - the starter is a heavy current eater. If you get no whir from that test then the starter motor is fried inside. You can take it apart and see if it is fixable (new brushes, a clean-up of the commutator and possibly new windings, but at that point I would suggest a rebuilt starter/solenoid assy. If the starter did whir on the last test then you can remove the solenoid and either rebuild it or replace it, the later being a good idea. The new starter will come with a new or rebuilt Bendix drive which is probably next in line for failure. When going for a new starter make sure to bring the old one along with you. First, you can match it up to make sure the computer picked the right one for your vehicle and second, they charge a "core charge" for the old one - they want it back to be rebuilt and sold again. Just to make sure you got a good one you should bench test the new starter - it wouldn't be the first time a bad rebuilt was shipped

Just wondering.....why do you need continuous power for satelite radio? Or is it something else?

Yep, I now have a hole big enough to drop my cell phone through no problem..don't ask how I know this. I'm just worried that the rear seatbelt anchors are becoming useless, because my kids sit back there.....may be a 2 seater soon....

Ear plugs+feet on the dash=priceless

Sweeeeet....I love the slim design too. Now you have to update us on the "air tank" part....ingenious.

You can get those mats anywhere....try ebay, but I don't think they were specifically made for older pathys....there are universal ones though. If you get one thats too big, trim it up.

OOPS you guys are right, sorry....forgot about the wires in the rear (crawled under and there they were, right where I left them hanging lol)