bitemedoughboy.com

are the 12" long enough for the front? i have (4) 13" trailmasters im planning on using on mine. for some reason they dont look long enough either.

anybody with skillz enough to fab a bumper should be able to make one to fit your rig without "detailed plans". i have an Autocad drawing of my bumper but its not detailed out, i just made a 3d model of it and printed it out full size to make a template for the top, the rest i laid out w/o the drawing. i can email it to you if you want... you will have to come up with something stronger than the stock mounts, they are worthless. i rear ended a 2 ton flat bed with my bumper and the stock mounts crumbled like foil. i replaced them with 3/8" plate welded to the frame. the bumper attaches to the new mounts with (3) 1/2" bolts on each side. i would recommend (4) on each side or go with grade 8. i sheared the grade 5 bolts off when i hit a burm doing about 20 mph and came to a dead stop.

Steeeeevo, are those Bilstein shocks? and whats the travel on them?

i highly doubt his transfer case broke, most likely his differential housing or the cover.

taking so long.... ? you're moving at light speed compared to most businesses...

they make bushing ends with a threaded stud.... im sure Steeevo can get something similar

thats what i was thinking, but in this case it would be opposite.

you wont warp anything if you tack everything up then weld in short beads alternating sides so you dont generate too much heat in one spot.

theres no need for a JJ on a panhard bar, they dont twist.... a poly bushing will work fine for a panhard

did you try reversing the drill? it will only make the needle move if turned in the correct rotation, i believe counter clockwise as viewed from the rear for the cluster, a drill normally runs clockwise.

how much for a custom length set for those wanting to "long arm" the rear ?

interested - yes like idea - yes think they will sell - yes pay someone to do what i can do myself - no keep up the good ideas, maybe some day the pathfinders will catch up to the rest of the bolt-on 4x4 community (like heeps and toys)

bought damn time!

who is going to check to see if they're DOT approved? the SS brake lines i have been running in my Z for the last 15 years are not DOT approved. there are a ton of non DOT aftermarket parts out there. it doesn't mean they're not safe for a DD, it just means that they have not been through the Governments over taxation process yet. i say go for the links for any vehicle. its better than buying (8) sets of bushings from AC @ ~$50/set.

why wouldnt they be "street legal" ? may i suggest 2"x.250 DOM or 2x2x.250 square tube for the bottom links, they will hold up better on the rocks.

you would be better off with a 4.3/nv3500/d241 combo for light wheelin, but if your gonna do any serious crawling or mudding go with a 5.7 or 4.3/nv4500/205 with the 3:1 kit in it.

it should work, the speedo is its own little assembly iirc.

as long as the style of cluster is the same shape i dont see why not...

not chromos, super axles: they make them for the rubicons, d60's and those guy that have toy's

they should all be the same, the drive gears have different teeth counts to adjust for the different ratios in the auto/manual rigs. you should be able to tear it apart and take the speedo out of an auto cluster and stuff it into your manual cluster.

that rule of thumb is for mostly stock D44's, but if your going to dump 2 grand in u-joints and cryo'd parts your better off with a D60 with some longfield's (cant wait till bobby long makes a set for the D44)

if he's just making a "test pipe" as some call them, you want to match the size of the tube that's already there, jumping up then back down in tube size will cause restriction in the flow.. if he is running a new exhaust all the way back i say 2.5" or what ever he feels like. all the scavenging takes place in the manifolds and in the y-pipe, after that it doesnt really matter.

that makes sense, i didnt know you have a cv in there.... have you had any experience with ballistic joints? they had a chrome moly joint with the threaded stud now. i been thinking about using them on my SAS, i dont like the way the JJ's use a snap ring.

any reason why your running the slip yolk at the bottom? wouldn't it stay cleaner at the top?

depends on if he has a lot of up travel vs. droop