Tungsten

check the wiring and the connections to the motor, maybe unplug the connectors and clean them its probably the switch/lever, start there if you hear buzzing and nothing comes out then the spray thing or the hose is clogged, twist it out and unplug it, let the hose hang out and flip the wiper up and then fill up the washer fluid reservoir to full then hit the wash switch a few times and wait for the clog to come out of the hose, if the fluid sprays clean then its the spray thing that needs cleaning also check for any breaks in the lines

Ok I bought a 180 degree STANT SUPERSTAT (along with hoses etc.) and had a shop install it and flush the cooling system. Everything cost around $400 and I will pick it up tomorrow and report the results.

I had the same problem, my friend redid the crimp near the right headlight and I installed a new switch. Problem solved!

Does anybody here recommend to grease the brake shims when lowering the calipers back on? My new front pads include a grease packet with a recommendation to grease the shims but I don't know if I need to since those calipers are tight enough already. When I did the rear pads, I did not put any grease on the shims. Should I take it apart again and get some grease on them too?

I recommend a 13000 BTU (19000 GVW) B&M cooler

ok after i rotated the mirror all the way down and looked into the hole, i found the problem the two top screws that hold the motor mirror mount to the housing are way backed off causing the mirror to wobble now how do i get in there and tighten those screws???

Is there any specific reason why? The OEM spec is 170 and I would like to keep the engine running cool. I would get the 180 since it is cheaper than the 170 of the same brand but I would rather get one that lasts longer and works better be it the 170 or 180.

so should i get a 170 or a 180 one? also do i need to get a new housing or just the thermostat valve itself?

yep dip stick shot out due to heat

if I press on the glass, it feels very squishy should i press harder?

ok should I also get some hoses? where is the best place to get those?

Isn't there an A/T temp warning light on the dashboard? I have one and maybe you can somehow use that circuit to get an actual reading.

It looks like my thermostat is stuck halfway somewhere since I almost overheated the other day. I need some advice on buying a replacement thermostat like what brand to buy and where from anyone that ever replaced one. I was thinking about getting one from NAPA but I don't want to get a defective one.

I have automatic mirrors and on my right mirror, the glass mirror piece is wobbling. Is there any way I can take it apart and fix it?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/72900_850.htm nuff said

spend the extra $$$ and get a decent alternator otherwise you will be replacing them all your lifetime lol btw anyone know anything on those Mean Green alternators???

clogged injectors for sure put one of those injector cleaning solutions into the gas tank

uhm no...SAS all the way kthx

just wait a little, someone will be here shortly with all the info ps thats a really nice looking engine you got in there

if i can recall properly, nissan used Garrett brand turbochargers and 11 psi seems about right but i would like a second opinion here

lifts or any other modification to the suspension is what usually causes these things to break also if you floor it around corners or if your links are bad, that will put alot of stress on these CVs

there is an access hole in the back, just peel the carpet

So basically I have to turn those star shaped nuts in the drums correct? Also should I loosen up the Y cable while I'm at it for future adjustments?

Shoes are good, I checked them when I replaced the rotors. I don't know if those shoes could be adjusted but they don't look bad. If the cable is stretched, do I need to replace it?

My handbrake only works on its last 3 clicks or so and I would like to adjust it so it engages sooner. I have the mini-drum kind. From what I have seen, there is a nut that I can turn to pull it closer but I think mine is already at the end and cannot be adjusted further. I can tap some more thread on there but don't want to risk snapping any cables. Any other ideas?