Tungsten

the balljoints are good there is no play also the linkage is very good too i'm thinking it might be the steering wheel itself or the worm gear as there is a little play in the steering wheel and another weird thing is the power assist varies, on some days it turns easier and on some days harder

no my a/c doesn't work as there is a leak somewhere so i lost all the refrigerant lol anyway could just be some air left in the system as the cooling is quite consistent now it does not go over 1/2 now

go to the junkyard get another engine swap heads bonus parts win

Ok here is the deal When going straight at low speeds I can keep the wheel centered but once I start going faster than 55 then I have to keep the wheel slightly turned to the right and the faster I go the more I have to turn it. My alignment is good so I have no idea what is causing this. Any ideas?

2wd models and 4x4s use slightly different parts overall I don't think this is possible unless you do some hardcore custom fab

if it starts to go to half then the fan kicks in and lowers it so its pretty much consistent at that spot but idk if its best for the vg30e chances are it will be better once i get a trans cooler in there

A link for the reducer fittings would help I need a little more info since I never installed a transmission cooler before I would also like to bypass the radiator completely so should I get 2 coolers? Thanks

Here it is Click on Attached Image

Here is where my needle hovers about Also whenever it gets to half now, the fan clutch kicks on and takes it down to about there Is this normal (for a 180 degree)? I don't have a trans cooler yet and I also run with OD off EDIT: The attachment system is broken, see next post, it works lol

so what is the correct inlet size? or what adapter to use?

The flush was free and they didn't charge me for the coolant either The rad came to $175 and the rest was labor and taxes Now it runs slightly below half with minor variences Ill put up a pic later today of where the needle hovers about

well i am going to pick it up from the shop today again lol and there goes another $300 yes just as i was suspecting the radiator was clogged not letting the engine cool off quick enough with a new radiator, do i still need a trans cooler?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PLI-433145/?image=large Does that look like a good replacement?

What about this one? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-3951/?image=large The inlet and outlet sizes are different, this one is a 1/2

Looks like it comes with everything http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70264/?image=large If it fits, I will buy it

I think my radiator is still either clogged or has air in it and my overflow bottle is way over its maximum line. The thermostat does work as it does warm up to a little below half quickly but as soon as I start driving it slowly heats up and doesn't stop. I had to pull over today because it was at 3/4 already and since I do not yet have a transmission cooler I risk killing my transmission. I should have spent the $400 on an aftermarket radiator (if there are any for these trucks). It was doing the same thing before except the warm up would take forever (stuck open thermostat) and it would just keep heating and heating.

go to the junkyard and pick the flip open arm rest from a 94 or so which has the cup holders built right in thats what i did, cost me $3

if your fan clutch is locked on full then you will probably get low temps but i need someone else on here to tell me what their temps are with a 180 degree thermostat

is there anything i can show them? its definately running a bit warm well at least they still flushed the system and installed the thermostat

ok back from the shop they said that anywhere between 1/2 and 3/4 is normal my overflow bottle is also way over the max line now another thing which kinda irritates me is that they never removed any of the labels from the hoses but just put clamps over them now the labels are ripping off at the clamps and it looks retarded

i had that problem before, it would just stay on so i replaced it

mine does that too but then after a few seconds it shuts off and lets the truck warm up but i don't know when that spring should engage and lock it again

yea good point does anyone know at what point the fan clutch should kick in and spin up the fan?

ok i will try a burp and go back to the shop if more coolant needs to be added also the performance is much better with a 180 degree thermostat and the warm up is faster will definately be better when i get the tranny cooler going im sure oh and does anyone know when the fan should spin up??

Ok here is an update While I'm standing still the coolant temp is around 185 F but if I start moving it goes up to the halfway and even a little bit over sometimes. It was hot out today (86 F) and I do not have a transmission cooler yet, could this be one reason? Is this normal behavior?