Tungsten

ok got all the parts and got the round tooth belt going for a major overhaul tomorrow also my brake master cyl is shot so thats gonna get done too

could be an idler pulley mine whined like a bitch then i replaced it with a cheap one and its whining again now time to go get one from dealer if it doesn't go up and down with rpms that could mean something is up with a differential if your final drive fails, you will get a high pitched whine

the bubbles could mean that there is a slight air/coolant leak in the system let the bubbles run for about 20-30 minutes (they might go away) and see if theres any coolant loss

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18163

well the last timing belt change was at 120k and now i have 210k and it still runs lol its either that the new belt is stronger or the cam sprockets are round toothed now where should i get the waterpump and stuff? is the dealer worth it?

if you overheated even slightly chances are you baked the head gaskets and you WILL need new hoses also make sure no bolts or studs have been cracked when I was overheating with a crap radiator, I did everything possible to not let it go past 3/4 even like pulling over and turning on emergency lights and letting the engine cool it may have pissed some people off in traffic but at least I didn't do damage

my engine is out of a 94, is it still square?

I don't want to buy more than I have to because most parts have been already replaced so for the timing belt I think those 3 items should already be enough.

I'm experiencing some kicking and rumbling too but I just ignored it, have run like this for a while and it doesn't seem to affect anything. Lets see what happens when I change the transmission fluid (and transfer case and differential)... The heat shields are half assed on my engine so when I stop at the traffic light in D they rattle from time to time. Turn up that stereo! lol

Its about time to do the timing belt and I have a few simple questions 1. Where should I get the water pump and what brand? Should I go to the dealer for this part? 2. What about the tensioner? 3. Which timing belt is better, round teeth or square? The dealer wants $50 for the belt and I don't know what shape that one is. Should I go to the dealer or get a round or square one at rockauto.com? 4. Is there anything else I'm missing? Now my thermostat, radiator, and hoses are all new so don't count those.

Ok now this is great... I went over to the dealer to get the pan gasket, the o-ring, and the filter and asked about the right ATF. He said to use Nissanmatic D and if anything he would not use Nissanmatic J or S. Now WTF is up with that? Here I have 16 bottles of J(S) and now what am I supposed to do? Turns out that the J and S stuff is for the newer transmissions like after 2001 so do not use it. I exchanged it at the dealer for the D now I should be good.

well just got a new radiator cap from the dealer lets see if that makes a difference, the old one was nasty

insert screwdriver into one of the holes

Done! Turning those nuts worked great. Now the vehicle will hold with only 3-4 clicks. 3-4 clicks is good right?

Problem solved!! Rear right caliper came loose because one bolt broke off...that damn caliper is cursed... All good now!

looks like the only way in is to pry off the glass from those ball things

Yes that is the same problem I have, I am stumped with this one but I would go for the tension rods.

If there is metal in the fluid then your transmission is going to quit soon. A flush and a filter change is at least something that can be done to help it out. If its that bad then you should have it rebuilt.

i like that diagnosis but what is with the thumping sound when stepping on pedal? http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/f5/f33...ng-reverse.html I THINK I HAVE THE SOLUTION will check tomorrow morning

I can't jack up both sides but if I push it back in neutral will that work?

How would this only affect reversing? The wheels lock after about 4 feet of reversing.

They would not lock up reverse for no reason, if it was the brakes then it would be locked forward too I think.

Auto

Well I was driving around in the park and all of a sudden I heard a low loud thump from the back. Now whenever I step on the brakes there is a thump followed by some rubber sounding squeaking. If I let go of brakes it moves forward fine. When I put it in reverse, it creeps back a little bit and both wheels lock up making the truck slide back. I have a limited slip differential so I was thinking the diff is out and its a matter of miles now before forward drive fails too. Could it be the transmission or transfer case? What can be the problem?

I'm about to have the transmission fluid flushed. Should I have them change the filter too? Should I get a Nissan filter and gasket and O-ring? Or are there any alternative filter kits I can get? I seen a few on rockauto.com but I don't know how good those are. What should be the shopping list for changing the ATF filter? So far I have... 1. AT Pan Gasket 2. Pickup filter 3. O-ring for pickup filter 4. New bolts for crossmember