Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

zonianbrat

Members
  • Posts

    3,338
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by zonianbrat

  1. In my opinion i think it is driver's choice and it also depends on what kind of terrain you are pulling in. Out here in Colorado when we go camping and towing stuff up the mountain yeah i would take it out of overdrive for the hills but for flat terrain like highway i would not think you would have to worry about it. But then again there are other people here that probably know more about the subject than me. I dont tow much if i do it is my buddies little trailer with 2 dirt bikes on it. not too much weight so i do not have to turn the overdrive off often.
  2. Ok so I was thinking about it alot so right after my last post i went outside and loosened up both main drive belts not the power steering belt I could not see if that fixed the sqeal becuase we just drove it like an hour ago and once it has started it does not squeal until it is cold so i will update again in the morning.
  3. John Boy I think you might be right. I am going to try to loosen them up just a little if that does not work i will start by spraying belt dressing on one belt at a time hoping to narrow it down to which one of the three it is. Other than that i have now idea problem is finding time to do it i have been working a ton of hours to catch up on some work and just have not had time to do anything at all. Oh and John Boy about the pics of the honda sorry i just have not gotten around to it. I dont have time to do anything anymore it sucks really bad.
  4. totally busted dont waste your money. save it to put gas in your truck!!!!
  5. I think you need to stop thinking so negatively and start trying to figure out what you are going to do, mmy suggestion is find a way to get your truck somewhere safe. Rent a storage unit if you have too, some places have deals going for like dirt cheap for first month store your pathy in there as long as you make first payment you have bought yourself a month, second buy a "beater" u can usually get one for like 500 bucks some cheaper. as long as it gets you to and from school and maybe a part time job other than that get buddies to help you get your pathy road worthy everybody here is willing to answer your tech questions wish i could answer them but when it comes to some of this particular stuff i am kinda stupid. So i ask you Jay what'ya gonna do? Cause you gotta do something. :type:
  6. Dam that sucks sorry to hear that about the pathy, were you able to get the license plate of the other car? probably not as you were probably saying oh s&^& or atleast that is what I would have been doing. It looks like the damage can be fixed by way of a hammer, fender,bumper maybe grill. Hey great time to get a billet grill made for that bad boy. But seriously though glad atleast you are ok.
  7. Yeah the first one is really nice and clean except for the stupid little mirror. I dig the truck but not something i would take off-road so it is no good to me. Now the lifted R-50 is tight I wish i had the cash to do that to my truck right now!!!
  8. Sorry precise 1. Usually I am in such a hurry to post that I just ramble without even thinking about punctuation and or capitals. I apologize... oh and thanks for te tip on changing the differential fluid.
  9. Unless you have a warranty on your 99.5 why are you going to take it to the stealership??? I am sure there is a mechanic around you that works on nissan and will probably not charge you nearly as much. then again i do not know your situation, all i know is i always read about how people take their pathy's straight to the dealer... i would only do it if i had a warranty. but that is just me. besides any mechanic will be able you run the codes for you then if it is something like simple you can replace it yourself, i guarentee the dealer is going to tell you all kinds of crap you need but probably really dont. sorry i will get off my soapbox now i just hate dealerships the screw you any chance they get.
  10. so how did you drain the rear diff? i want to do this so i guess i will ask i could just rely on the search feature but i kinda think we need to liven this forum up a bit. dont mean to offend anybody.
  11. Well i will give the belt dressing a tie, i do not think the bearings in the idler arm are rusting because this only started after i put the new belts on this past week it never did it before?? and i have now determined it only does it on cold start up after it has been sitting for atleast eight hours after i run it once it does not do it anymore, i dont know i am stumped i am going to keep checking the deflection every day.
  12. I just checked deflection on all the belts and they are in within range 1/4 to 1/2 inch, i checked the idler arm and the power steering pulley and all seem fine not sure what is going on could it be new belts haveing to be broken in?
  13. ok quick question, as you guys probably know i changed the drive belts on my pathy when i did the t-belt etc. so now after the truck has been sitting when i start her up a belt squeals for like 1 second litterally now the noise is not what is troubling me i just dont want them to be too tight or loose how do you guys guage the deflection, the haynes manual says about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deflection i thought that i was right on but am not positive i will recheck tomorrow, does a squealing belt usually mean to tight or to loose not sure. :type:
  14. that sucks man. my mirror got lopped off of my camaro while it was sitting in the street (one of the only nights i left it parked out on the street last year) I got a replacement from this online parts store, give me a while and i will try to find the website, not sure if they do nissan parts but it is worth a try because i got a really good deal on my mirror. i think with shipping it was like $25.00.
  15. i thinks the stud is still in the rubber grommet but not positive. and yeah i did think of the epoxy, (did not know they made high-temp though) and what i wonder is if it will stand up to the vibration????? guess it is worth a try. thanks
  16. totally the way to go, and it saved me alot of mulah too.
  17. man this topic is dead, i could not find anything in the search either. so gues i will just rig it with bailing wire for now. i feel like i am talking to myself.....not good
  18. That is kinda what i am hoping to do, swap straight up, it might me time for me to do some research on how much the accord is worth. and how much i can get a ggood pathy for. only thing is that accord gets really good gas mileage... ah screw it i want another pathy!!!
  19. ok i finally got my pathy back on the road after a haveing to wait for the crank pulley to come in so i could finish my t-belt water pump t-stat etc job. anyway when i put her back together i broke a plastic stud on the bottome of the radiator which goes int a rubber grommet attached to the body. now if you ar under the truck you can move the radiator like an inch or so both ways and i am a little worried about this. i think i am going to rig something up with heavy duty wire or something for the time being but i want a permanent fix have any of you guys run into this problem? if so what did you do. oh and it is the stud on the right side of the radiator if you are under the truck rught under teh lower radiator hose. please any help is much appreciated. :bow:
  20. Well i am happy to report that i finally got my pathy put totally back together last night fired it up and drove it around and it drives better than before mainly i think because of the new plugs. i know you guys might not care much but i am just really happy to finally have it back on the road again. here is all i did to it: changed spark plugs changed oil & filter changed air filter (cone style) new timing belt new water pump coolant bypass hose thermostat flushed cooling system new crank pulley (broke the original--lesson learned) -thnkboutit- oh yeah and new drive belts. now she runs quiet no squeaking belt!! i would not have done this job without the advice i got from this forum. I would have just taken it in the shop and got bent over. so thanks again people you rock!!!
  21. This thread came up at the perfect time, i am thinking of selling my wifes honda accord for a another pathy!! but it needs to be a four-door for the little one.
  22. well i got home after work today and tried what you said 88, sprayed a little wd-40 and used an old plug gently pushed the contact back where it was supposed to be thanks for the advice another great tip which saved me alittle money, the wires appear to be in great shape so i did not think i needed to buy a new set, i have spent enough money on tools and parts lately so it is all good thanks again i owe you a
  23. just be sure to take your time. definetely get a harmonic balancer puller and do it right i broke my pulley and it cost me over 200 dollars on top of all the parts i had already bought. good luck..
  24. i am going to try that again (pushing the connector up into the boot. as i compare it to the rest of the connector is right at the end of the boot i have tried once to push it back with an old plug but it did not work. i am going to try it again because i am tapped out this repair has cost me more than i wanted to spend (i know it would have cost alot more if i took it in to be fixed but still since i had to buy the harmonic balancer new it has set me back a bit. i was wanting to buy some skid plates but i can not for a little while. oh well atleas my truck will be fixed. i guess -study-
  25. i replaced my spark plugs this weekend while i did the belt and other things but i noticed when i put the wire on the # 5 plug that it did not go all the way down on the plug but only over the electrode. has anyone else had this problem? i can not pushe the part that holds the electrode back any farther do i need new wires? they are not very old. maybe 25,000 miles. i did not wrench real hard to get it off of the # 5 plug. what kind of wires do you guys use. sorry if this makes anybody mad but i do not have much time to do an extensive search.
×
×
  • Create New...