Gotrek

Yep I know but they sell caps for other vehicles which make the structure even stronger. Thanks everyone

Our pathfinder has the ever common (at least here) frame rot. The rear frame is rusting through. It's been fixed once before and has rusted again (7 years later) Do they sell frame caps for pathfinders? I know they do for old mopars but I'm wondering if anyone makes a convenient piece for pathy's

Well it's done sort of . Took three full days. Damn rusty canadian vehicles. Just about every sleeve had to be cut off, bushings were glued on it was horrible. Worse thing is I found out the hard way.... On a 1992 PAthfinder built before august I was told the difference between before and after was the taper on the tie rods. I bought parts for after august/92 thinking if I change the tie rods with the center link no problems. Well There is the Taper on the pitman arm is different too. No way to fix that so I threw the old steering link back in. Look for a august/92+ steering link for sale along with tie rods.

Good stuff the only reason I asked is I'm driving about 1 hour out of town to get to a facility with more tools should I need them and don't want to be stranded there. Yes ther eis an alignement facility there.,

Does it hold anything (i.e. i it required to put back on immediately if a bolt does snap?)

How long do you firgure it will take me. Assuming things aren't too too rusty I've been spraying pb on everything for the last month so rust shouldn't be an issue except for spots I couldn't reach through the skid plate.

I finally have all the parts to rebuild the front end in my GF's 92 pathfinder. (BJ, TRE, centerlink, stabilizer links etc. All new urethane bushings) Are there any special tools I'm going to need? I'm looking at my FSM. The only thing is a ball joint puller but a large C-clamp looks like it should work. A pit manarm puller. Anything else?

I recently went out to purchase a complete front end kit for our 92. Didn't find one. I ordered all the core suspension parts (TRE, centerlink, Ball Joints etc) from a ebay dealer. I bought all the urethane bushings from 4x4parts 200$ for everything.

I don't know it your town but in ours (fairly small city) we have wheel customizers who can change the offset of pretty much any aluminum wheel.

All those modules do (all of them) is fake the data that is being sent from the sensors to the computer. They go in between the sensors and the computer ignore what the sensor is saying and send data to the computer of there own. So if the oxygen sensor is sending out .5 volts indicating a decent mixture condition, the computer sends 1.0 volt telling the computeer to go fulll rich and dump more fuel in the injectors. (just one example one sensor I don't know what else this module changes probably airflow, coolant temperature etc) Will it give you more power sure. but at what cost. Extra fuel without extra air = fuel waste, it will wash the oil of the cylinder walls and could cause failures. It does what it says though. Is it good for the truck, sure once in a while, But if your sensors were put in the truck theres probably a reason

I heard the same thing reasoning is that the old fluid and grime may be holding seals that are worn out from leaking. Tranny fluid contains a high amount of detergent which will wash out the grime and cause the bad seals to leak. Personally I'd rather find out I have bad seals. I do regular tranny fluid changes on all my cars.

Never mind just saw "power" in front of steering. Too early for smart replies.

Sounds like the bad voltage regulator problem... I'm searching for the post on it but haven't found it yet give me a bit. You are correct though all those items are on the same fuse if I recall. Ninja Edit: Here http://www.nissanpathfinders.com/Solution2.pdf

168 HP @ 4,800 rpm; 196 ft lb @ 2,800 rpm

http://nissan4wheelers.com/groupee/forums/...131#36410576131

Theres a good post on nissan4wheelers Basicly you ahve to re-use your crank and timing chain and all accessory brackets but that's about it. Let me find the link

Yo I'm Dom. If the tires are ok and properly inflated (26psi) I'd look at the steering link, when it gets worn out the truck will sway and get pulled into ruts and grooves in the pavement. Jack up the front of the truck or get on the ground and have someone turn the wheel lock to lock. Watch for play in the steering link or idler/pitman arm

Took me 30 mins my first time at it. Long wobble extentions and had to use a ujoint coupler for the back one. I made the mistake of not warming the engine up first which made some of the plugs hard to remove but not the worse I've ever seen.

If by chance someone has a link to the best/cheapest center link please send it to me, She doesn't wheel with her truck but I do drive it through rougher paths when I have it (still wouldn't consider it offroading) Question two MOOG lists two different model's of center link strating in mid 92 How do I determine the proper build date of the truck so I order the proper link Dates are split at 7/92 and before and 8/92 and after

Thank-You . I guess the centerlink is my most expensive purchase at 150$ or so from napa. Thanks again.

The two upper ball joints are done. The lower ones on there way out. Both innner/outer tie rod ends are finished Sway bar links aren't looking great either. The centerlink bushingsare finished at both the idler and pitman arm. Wow it's pretty bad Can I buy the centerlink bushings or do I need to replace the entire link? The control arm bushings are worn out but still usable, sway bar bushings look like they need replacement. Torsion bars probably need reindeing as well they are not broken but the truck is visibly sagging and wearing out the tires on the inside.

Does anyone offer a front end rebuilt kit for a 92 pathfinder. My girlfriends pathfinder is done. There is still spring in the front end but so much play it's not even funny. The steering wobbles. The truck sits uneven, every bump feels like there is no suspension. I keep telling her to fix it but I guess I'll have to do it for her. I figure a kit would be the cheapest way to go. All my old cars have kits but I can't seeem to find an all in one kit for her truck.

Preferably from a stop or under 30 kph move the lever from 2H to 4H roll slowly forward to lock the hubs and go. Unless her son instaled manually locking hubs she should not have to lock the hubs manually.

I don't have an answer for you but know you're not alone. here is my Diagnosis so far (I'm waiting till spring to look into it) Mine used to do the same thing. they would autolock or unlock intermittently and it was only happening when it was colder. Now they no longer work at all or very seldomly. At first I though it was a bad relay but couldn't find it. Checked all the fuses etc. Then I figured something in the drivers door is broken (switch or linkage) and I never searched further, Until last night. I was playing with the switch when it was quiet and I could herea relay ticking so the switch has power and works but not power gets to the actuator. I traced the ticking to somewheres in the cargo area. There must be a relay back there that is malfunctionning. I'm going to continue my search and post back if I find anything.

I don't remember the proper procedure for wheel studs but it invoves heating the hub to expand the metal before you tap the old stud out and again before you insert the new stud. I'll search