Gotrek

I have a 92 SE, When the truck is not running, headlight switch off, the Driver side headlight remains on. With the truck off, turn on the running lights and the headlight goes off, Turn on the headlights and both come on properly. With the truck running the DRL's come on but the driver side is dimmer. I suspect a relay is stuck somewhere. I suspect it's one of the three near the washer fluid jug, can someone pin point the correct one?

Check your rear sway bar end links ours are broken and it does exactly what you describe.

Just the front and it limits the amount of travel your suspension will have. Think of it like installing a super stiff spring up front. it will rebound(super stiff) but not stretcj

Sweet

While you have it apart.... And this isn't my expertise (nissan AT) but I'd take the valve body out and replace the reverse band or at least look to see if it's whipped.

Most of our local wrecking yard don't have many pathfinders. And the kicker recently they were all bought up by General Scrap which is a huge company that's in the steel business not the auto recycling business. Cars are crushed within the week of getting to the yard. It's getting harder and harder to find good wrecking yards. I always keep and eye out when I go though. But I figured they are cheap enough new I'd get new ones. Problem is Napa canada discontinued carrying the part and my nissan dealer couldn't order it either.

I still need these unfortunately Cdhicks bolt broke when he removed it. If anyone else has a set they no longer need.

I changed mine this weekend. What a horrible design I couldn't drop the pan because the tranny cross member and the exhaust cross over are in the way. So I ended up hacking the crossover and welding it back when I was done. Is my truck the only one like this? That cross over pipe should be 2 inches closer to the front of the truck lots of room for it too.

Napa's house brand for me. Moog is good but it's a one piece cast/sealed design, the napa brand one is rebuildable.

That was my next question. Since it's fuel injected make sure to de-pressurize the fuel rails (run the truck with the gas cap off, and the fuel pump fuse removed until the truck dies of fuel starvation)

Ours are worn out too but make a clunk/wobble sound at random, usually going over a bump or accelerating abruptly

Ours only leaks in winter for about 1 minute while the truck wamrs up, once warm nothing. I'll change it though. Can it be done without removing anything else?

Sure it's not the brakes? Since it's an easy thing to do I'd lube the slide pins on the calipers, Our truck was making that noise and lubing the slide pins helped the brakes release properly and it went away. If not check if anything is hitting the wheel or if the brakes dust shield is bent and rubbing. Could be a bad wheel bearing as well.

That fuel line is leaking on my GF's pathfinder. I told her once that radiator hose blows we'll do it all at once Procrastination at it's finest.

Check PM's

Nothing near the patch area. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and didn't notice anythingaround the battery. That's where I'm not sure where to start looking since the truck runs fine just a little more hesitant then usual. I remember my cavalier was the same when the battery was unplugged for more the 1 minute as it would loose the fuel/spark maps in the ECU and have to reprogram itself (by driving around for a while)

Huh? You've lost me I don't know what you're talking about

And that would of.... Broken.... What exactly? I know the clock was reset and the radio stations as well so I'm pretty sure the battery was disconnected.

That link doesn't show me the part or a description... This is what I need the threaded rod(bushing end) is broken, I thought of cutting it and drilling out the back piece and threeading my own bolt in it

The passenger side rear link is broken the bolt is sheared. I've noticed the stabilizer is one piece with a built in stud and bolted at the end so the whole stabalizer link needs to be replaced. Napa lists that part as discontinued and I can't find one. Can I just drill it out and replace it with a regular bolt? Number 13 on this picture

Just want to confirm something. My GF had her frame fixed, to weld I'm assuming they disconnected the battery and the computer lost its Maps. Is this a correct assumption? She says her pathy now hesitates at soft acceleration off idle. I noticed it too and even stalled it once(slowing down from 50kph and accelerating softetly ) took it on a 250km run yesterday it runs fine just off idle it seems to hesitate and near stall. It was running fine before.

I'll try to post mine on the weekend. My entire rear frame rails are finished Rusted from the front ladder bar anchor all the way to the back And it's been fixed once before the lader bar mounts are boxed. Rust in the lower innner quarter panels, and front wheel wells. It's done

You're better off buying it new for 2$ who knows how long the junker part will last.

I'm in canada it's be quite the drive. A frame cap is like a U shaped piece of steel bent so it slips over the original frame rail and is welded to what's left.

I vote for relay timer or the little plastic piece tied to the lock. Push the button when its quiet you should hear a ticking coming from the rear driver side cargo area. That's where the timer relay is located if it's ticking it's still working.